yes i agree with the warm white
ive played with several kinds of LEDS, as well as toning LEDS and incan lamps with Tamaya clear yellow, orange and red-
tinting is actually rather tricky imho-its easy to over do-and yellow over cool white is almost but not quite right imho-tamaya is the best ive used because its clear and but for the blue , the colors are true and pure
the best thing imho is to get the right color
i can say ive used what i THINK might be 'golden glo' for an n scale engine-they are ever so slightly more yellow than warm white-they imitate headlights nicely-you can see a very slight difference-it looks more like the color of a large incan light bulb in a loco reflector-hard to articulate, almost like a very pale butter tint-i dont buy them any longer as ive found a great local source, all ready to wire with resistors and diodes etc and a far better price -the golden glos that i think i had came from a specialty train product electronics company -
an off the rack product at my hobby store-so they may be proprietary to a certain maker-the plastic around the emitter has a slight yellow tinge to it as i recall-they do look really convincing and are bright
one thing ive been playing with that id like to share, and not many i konw of use them
are Ultra violet LEds-these are light purple in color when lighted-they give a very modern flourescent effect
mostly due to the very modern color
-and look good in diners, shops, modern train stations etc
-they are also great for aiming at a wall clock face and making it appear back lighted,
i stuff mine in a tube (tucked under the stations eaves and not visible) and then adjust the beam focus -looks cool at night
and...for those of you that are glo in the dark paint using geeks like me..they will super charge the GID paint and give a strong glow when the light is turned off-i have , so far, painted the inside lamp shades of certain lamps and they look cool (if not realistic-more shostly) -and are completely undiscernable in daylight or when the LED is lighted
those cool bluish whites however really penetrate the dark
roughing the surface -esepecially with fine sand paper also has a great effect of diffusing the bulb a bit for a wider spread of light
She has all different colours and shades, and after a bit of playing the colour was just right to replace the yellow bulbs in originally in the Sheoma. You may need to slightly rough the surface of the led to get the paint or vanish to actually 'take'.
