Glue for 3D printed models

[James Coutts]

Hi all, I've already posted something about this in the help forum, but I felt it might belong here. I'm new to this hobby, and I'm unsure what sort of glue I should use for 3D printed models? Any advice would be very appreciated.

 

[JimmyB]

Really depends on what material is used in the 3D printing, I would assume you are talking plastic, or ABS, or maybe aluminium or concrete. So the glue to use would correspond to the 3D material.

 

[James Coutts]

At the moment I'm using PLA, I might look into PETG sometime.

 

[AlanL]

I use super glue gel for both types of filament. It does not set instantly. The joint remains fluid at first but give it time and it does work.

 

[maxi-model]

Doing a Google search for both materials it appears it's a bit like the wild west with regards to bonding these materials to themselves or others. It seems there is no "welding" option that dissolves and bonds the materials, like styrene and ABS, together. I have built some rolling stock and locos that incorporate PLA 3D printed parts, both major and minor. None of those parts were bonded to others of the same material. Typically the PLA was bonded to MDF or Acrylic. So, the choice was down to how strong a structural bond I needed, resisting knocks and bashes, and how much physical surface area was available to create a "contact patch" between materials.

For small parts with minimal contact patches, or with "pins" to fit in, I used a a good quality medium - thick CA adhesive. Those with larger contact patches I have used PVA. Both have been where bonding to MDF. Where bonding larger items to acrylic, like large air reciever tanks on a loco, I will "drill and pin" the object to the acrylic part using CA again to secure the metal pins. I avoid epoxies as they degrade over time and, unless designed for it, do not like damp environments.

It would be nice if there were a definitive "table" to work from, I suppose that will come with time. As Jimmy says it's really down to a case by case basis. That and the multiplication of materials now being used for 3D printing. Look at what the traditional "go to's" are for bonding disparate materials and what you are going to do with the final assembly. Max

 

[DickyC]

Hi James , PLA is nice to start with and for trials and getting to know the process, have found that ABS is much better to work with (your may need to play with the settings for extrusion) in the long run and better for bonding with plastic magic or other specialist glues. PLa is made from corn starch so it in the long run quite brittle.

As ever I would recommended the excellent teachings of ge_rik of this and other forums (a retired teacher himself so that why its set out so well) mussings on the subject.

How I constructed a Southwold Railway 6 wheeled Cleminson open wagon using PETG filament

 

[James Coutts]

Yes, I have been a fan of rik's work since I started in G, I dare say I've read every word in the blog! From my research ABS is much more complicated and can cause fumes and so the room needs good ventilation. I'll have to see what adhesives we have here at home and do some testing, it seems trial and error is the way to go.

 

[GAP]

I used super glue gel to great effect, when the part is in position I spray the joint with isopropal alcohol and it sets almost instantly.
If you have any excess it will turn white but can be scraped away with a knife blade or can be painted over.
I wipe away excess before spraying to leave the barest minimum.
This and its relatives were assembled this way, if you look real hard you can see some white in the corner of the chassis beams on the left.

I have good success with Wellbond as well and it is fast becoming my go to adhesive for just about everything (Discovered it after building these).
I used it the other day to glue some PLA+ point levers to a plywood base board and they aren't going anywhere in a hurry.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/weldbond-160ml-universal-adhesive_p1210590?srsltid=AfmBOorJ9iZc4Ntg_518zOKj2pEDNDYZYQn26HLI86gX1QD1ryczRmwa

 

[Rhinochugger]

Hi all, I've already posted something about this in the help forum, but I felt it might belong here. I'm new to this hobby, and I'm unsure what sort of glue I should use for 3D printed models? Any advice would be very appreciated.

General adhesives have improved over the years, and UHU original (not the new fangled eco friendly rubbish- which I have tried ) is pretty good at glueing stuff to stuff.

Bostik clear is equally as good. Both have a bad effect on painted surfaces

 

[DickyC]

Yes, I have been a fan of rik's work since I started in G, I dare say I've read every word in the blog! From my research ABS is much more complicated and can cause fumes and so the room needs good ventilation. I'll have to see what adhesives we have here at home and do some testing, it seems trial and error is the way to go.

Remember, we live in an Overtly "clinical & anxiety lead" world, the last 5 years have proved this to me more then ever. agree the ABS process does need to be monitored your right and i found it no harder then learning CAD software. I guess its bit like inhailing glue as a kid making airfix planes and the head aches told me to stop and open the window, or get high !

I am a printer and breath in more plastic fumes than a man should ever have done so over the last 23 years as one of my print process involved heating and sometime burning (user error) polyester fabrics, along with solvents. I do now suffer from severe sinus problem due to this. oh and SHOCK HORROR, I even removed 34m of Asbestos sofit board from my OWN 1960s bungalow 4 years ago, after a bit of research I discovered that the risk from it is fairly minimal compared the to the promoted risk by companys that will charge you $$$$$$$ to remove it. Took all the correct precautions with removal, ppe & bagging and drove it too the local TIP (they even provided the bags) ! What did help was my Uncle telling me he was diagnosed with asbestosis 20 years ago (He was an industrial plumber and spent alot of time climbing inside of it in boilers/heaters) and he never worried about it, all the drugs they give me hospital will kill me quicker he said ! I even know the 87 year old man who built my 1960s bungalow and was told he used to saw the sofits up with a hand saw when he put them in !

Agree PLA+ is a good stuff if you get the right brand that works with your brand of printer. PLUS i dint the "colour" of the filament makes a difference too, something to do with the dyes used.

 

[Paul M]

I even removed 34m of Asbestos sofit board from my OWN 1960s bungalow 4 years ago, after a bit of research I discovered that the risk from it is fairly minimal compared the to the promoted risk by companys that will charge you $$$$$$$ to remove it.

Just be careful. The dust is the type that sticks inside your lungs and causes other unpleasant dusts etc to cling to it making a lump of gunge. Like smoking, nog everyone will die from it, but a large percentage of smokers will get very ill because of it

 

[JimmyB]

I even removed 34m of Asbestos sofit board from my OWN 1960s bungalow 4 years ago, after a bit of research I discovered that the risk from it is fairly minimal compared the to the promoted risk by companys that will charge you $$$$$$$ to remove it.

Asbestosis is a killer, without proper PPE, it is very dangerous, and you have to be licensed to dispose of it, heavy fines for dumping, or even taking to the tip without informing them.

How to Dispose of Asbestos Safely | The Waste Group

Learn how to dispose of asbestos safely and legally. The Waste Group offers licensed asbestos collection and disposal across the UK.

www.thewastegroup.co.uk

 

[DickyC]

Asbestosis is a killer, without proper PPE, it is very dangerous, and you have to be licensed to dispose of it, heavy fines for dumping, or even taking to the tip without informing them.

How to Dispose of Asbestos Safely | The Waste Group

Learn how to dispose of asbestos safely and legally. The Waste Group offers licensed asbestos collection and disposal across the UK.

www.thewastegroup.co.uk

Goodness, without taking the thread away from its original meaning, did you read my original post ?.

Asbestosis is a killer, AGREE (but so are cars, sniffing glue and there are different levels of the stuff)
without proper PPE, (100% AGREE, thats what I said in my post, FFP3 mask used (TICK) )
it is very dangerous, (AGREE,)
and you have to be licensed to dispose of it (Disagree, if you look at the legislation this applies to Waste companies, Commercial contractors, trademen etc)
heavy fines for dumping (AGREE, for commercial operators, but not for the HIDIOUS critins of life who FLY TIP due to LAZYNESS)
or even taking to the tip without informing them (AGREE, The local council were very helpful, and even "as I said in my post" provided very good bags to bag the substantially coated panels)

While I commend you for using a YELLOW AND BLACK warning sign in your post and a link ( from a "company" who will charge you to do it and have to take extreme precaution for personal/employee insurance and protection and Duty of care, I have spoken to someone at church that does disposal for a living on the subject ) and for correctly identifying it as a substance to be wary with . The civil servants dont help, who while doing a great job are often control freaks that just want to put all humans in boxes while turning a blind eye to the serious un policeable issues of the world, no wonder this county produces nothing of worth anymore on any scale apart from 1000s of bureaucrats and AI software creators.

A link to the Three different types of asbestos there are would have been a good start too, this is the company I used to initially identify the product I was dealing with back in 2020 ! Types of asbestos | Armco Asbestos Surveys

AND PS ! DONT USE YOU 3d PRINTER TO MAKE A FRISBEE !

 

[maxi-model]

Well, as thread drift mode is now engaged. In amongst the hard-core debris removed from behind my house, when removing the concrete capping off paths and a patio, there was reported to be some asbestos. The contractor used, our local general works builder, mentioned it after doing the job as an aside. No extra cost, no questions. This area had always been a bit of an issue cosmeticaly and because of drainage issues it caused. When dug out and levelled it created a nice sunken area, in front of the garden, handy for working on the railway. See pictures.

What had been used to provide the hardcore used to build up the area previously, capped and sealed ? Apparently an old outhouse, broken up whole in-situ. My house is old, as in 300 years, property. The asbestos, probably its roof. The contractors ? They just happen to be neighbours and have been in business for years. Schtum ! Max

You can get some idea how much had been dug out. Those capped paths had reached, mostly, the height near where the tops of those "sleepers" are. A real issue at the back of the house as it caused water to be retained and seep into the walls.

 

[Gerard]

I am using ZAP GOO. A major advantage of the ZAP GOO adhesive is that it not only adheres well but is also easily removable if necessary, without affecting the underlying plastic. See more info in my book "Our Model Garden Railway" ISBN 9798285485971