G Scale points

[croffer]

Hi, I am a newby to the forum and to G scale. My name is croffer and I have a question about G scale points. When I am setting up a passing loop, how do Isolate the loop when running on the main line. I notice that even with the points switched to the main, the loco on the loop still moves. I seems that the points are made so that all the rails are connected across the opposing pairs and so remain powered at all times. What is the best way to overcome this. Any help would be appreciated. C.

 

[stevelewis]

You will need to ontain some Gscale insulated rail joiners it will be nescessary to remove some of the brass rail joiners from the ends of the section you wish to isolate.... this is easily done with pliers, the plastic insulated joiners are then used on one rail in each leg of the loop., you will then need to feed the insulated sections sperately via switches so that when one leg of the loop is required to be isolated to keep a loco in it the other leg can be switched 'on' to allow a 2nd loco to pass through.

Sorry if this is a bit brief but I am sure someone will post a diagram,

 

[croffer]

Many thanks Steve, it seems that the points need to be set up as "live frog" in 00 Gauge, will order isolaters soonest. Croff.

 

[stevelewis]

Yes it sort of follows that principle, although I beleive that the prime reason that G scale points have always been NON insulating is that it does ensure better power continuity for outdoor lines, ie no reliance on switch blade contact or other built in switchable connections to transmit the power.

Worth remembering though that if you go Digital, no need to worry about isolating sections!!

 

[croffer]

Thanks for the info, I'll start saving now. Croffer.

 

[Gavin Sowry]

Worth remembering though that if you go Digital, no need to worry about isolating sections!!

So, how does digital track power cope with the return loop scenario ?

 

[ntpntpntp]

So, how does digital track power cope with the return loop scenario ?

I think Steve was referring to no need to isolate in order to park stuff. Obviously polarity / short problems require isolating joiners and use of a reversing module.

 

[Gavin Sowry]

Obviously polarity / short problems require isolating joiners and use of a reversing module.

.... a fact that proponents of DCC et al, conveniently forget to mention when they are pushing the 'only need two wires' sales pitch.

 

[Gizzy]

These are what you need;

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=LGB10260&style=main&strType=&Mcode=LGB+10260

or

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=PK35292&style=&strType=&Mcode=Piko+35292

And welcome to the forum....

 

[Zerogee]

.... a fact that proponents of DCC et al, conveniently forget to mention when they are pushing the 'only need two wires' sales pitch.

Fair point, Gavin, but reverse loops are tricky under any track-powered setup - you need a lot more bits, wiring and/or faffing around to make them work on analogue than on DCC - at least with DCC you can just buy a single module that is easy to connect up and then does exactly what you need, seamlessly and with no operator input....

Oh, and welcome to the forum, Croffer!

Jon.

 

[croffer]

Thanks to all you 'G Men' who answered my question, have purchased necessary isolators, all I need to do is fit them. Keep up the good work. Croffer.

 

[merlin]

Of course another option to isolated track sections, is to fit switches to the locos to isolate the motor. This is not an original idea, I took the idea from an old LGB 'Mogul' tank loco which has a 3 positions slide switch mounted on the firebox backplate; 'Off', Lights and smoke only, All on.
I have some isolated track sections, but having now fitted switches to all my other track powered locos I rarely switch the sections off unless I'm parking a non-insulated live steam loco on it.
I accept the fact that in order to modify a loco one has to dismantle it, identify which wires go where and do what, and find an accesible location to mount the switch (either slide or toggle). And in some instances it may be necessary to insulate one of the motor terminals, and attach a wire between it and the switch, if the motor terminals are in contact with the pick-up bussing strips (a la Stainz). The switch on this loco incidentaly is a toggle mounted in a brass frame attached to the cab floor and operated by a dummy reversing lever which extends to just above the cab cutout.
Anyway, food for thought; it will not be the solution for everybody, but it works for me!

 

[AndyA]

You will need to ontain some Gscale insulated rail joiners it will be nescessary to remove some of the brass rail joiners from the ends of the section you wish to isolate.... this is easily done with pliers, the plastic insulated joiners are then used on one rail in each leg of the loop., you will then need to feed the insulated sections sperately via switches so that when one leg of the loop is required to be isolated to keep a loco in it the other leg can be switched 'on' to allow a 2nd loco to pass through.

Sorry if this is a bit brief but I am sure someone will post a diagram,

I had a similar problem when I started to build my Garden Layout - I used PIko track and insulated rail jioners. You only need the isolators on one side of the track, and I used power connector leads to connect to the rails via the point switch motor. I also connected my signal to the point motor via a bell crank so that I could see which line was live, and an indicator light back on the mimic board in the shed.