Foamboard mill

Longpockets said:
If Corroflute is the same as Correx it is not the same as Foamex.

Try here for Foamex.

According to this web site http://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk...OsNgUhoUgEB92RDYWkgY5bBeEdes5xVRoCURAQAvD_BwE

It is also known as Foamalite, Forex and Palight.

From the web site -

Our rates are for delivery anywhere in the UK*.

*Please Note: Some post codes (e.g. Isle of Wight and Scottish Highlands, N Ireland) incur excess shipping charges and we reserve the right to request this from our customers before shipment. Should you decide you do not want to incur this additional cost, you may cancel your order with no costs being incurred.
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Hi Tony, yes I know that Correx is not the same as Foamex - I had shared an order for the correx because I had been happy with using some election posters made of the stuff.

In the end, I used my sheets (and what my brother had left) for mounting photographs. I have a stock of the card based foam board but obviously it wouldn't last two minutes outside.

Thanks for posting the link - but I see its nearly treble the price of the firm that Rik posted a link to (and I tried to buy from), plus the caveat about postage - I'll have a further look around over here (maybe sign printers - but all I see is the Correx stuff dotted around the countryside!):cry:
 
Rhinochugger said:
Brickwork is nominally 225 mm x 75 mm - that includes approx 10 mm for mortar joints

So, at 1:22.5, it should be 10 mm x 3 mm :clap::clap:

That may be a bit tedious, or practically impossible with the material involved, so you could start to apply LGB's rubber ruler, but at least you know the starting point.

By trying to count the courses, it looks as if Rik has eased things a bit, so his brick courses look to be about 4 mm which scales out at 90 mm :nod::nod:
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Well spotted. I went for 12mm x 4mm. Slightly over scale (but not far off in 1:19). I liked the idea of having length divisible by height. Also, I happened to have a 4mm wide flat bladed screwdriver to hand where we were staying in France and so made life a lot easier when impressing the vertical courses.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
Well spotted. I went for 12mm x 4mm. Slightly over scale (but not far off in 1:19). I liked the idea of having length divisible by height. Also, I happened to have a 4mm wide flat bladed screwdriver to hand where we were staying in France and so made life a lot easier when impressing the vertical courses.

Rik
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I counted the number of courses up the side of the door frame ;););)
 
A little while since I updated this thread. Amazing how life intervenes when garden railway projects need to be completed. The mill is now nearing completion. The building is more or less complete, the site has been landscaped and some Jigstones blocks have been placed in the stream to support the wheel and direct the water flow on to the wheel. The building needs to be properly bedded-in and the concreting needs to be tidied up and some detailing is needed - eg sluice gates, railings, gutters and downspouts etc. But I wanted to check the wheel would function in the stream before I tidied everything up.
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Rear view of the mill showing the raised siding and lucam for loading grain sacks.
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A view from the main line across the stream. The Jigstones walling has just been fixed in place. It needs in-filling with concrete (did that this evening)
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I was pleased that even before sluice gates have been fitted the wheel rotates at a respectably slow speed. I assume my wheel is very inefficient at translating the water flow into rotary motion - but that suits me well!
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Here's a short film of the wheel in action.


Rik
 
Brilliant Rik...utterly
 
Thanks Steve & Mike. Particular thanks to Mike for your inspirational posts on using foamboard.

Rik
 
Luv it, luv it, luv it! Superb! :clap::clap::clap::clap:

On a tetch-nickle note, I think your wheel speed is so good because it is really too deep in the water for an 'under-shot', not that anybody would really notice (except perhaps a pedant like me), perhaps the river is just in spate. :giggle:
 
G-force1 said:
Luv it, luv it, luv it! Superb! :clap::clap::clap::clap:

On a tetch-nickle note, I think your wheel speed is so good because it is really too deep in the water for an 'under-shot', not that anybody would really notice (except perhaps a pedant like me), perhaps the river is just in spate. :giggle:
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I suspected that might be the reason. I did try simulating sluice gates with my hand and managed to get the wheel going at a reasonably slow rate with a reduced flow so I'm happy that, one way or another, I'll be able to get the wheel to revolve at a realistic speed without having to resort to some sort of mechanical method of slowing it down.

Rik
 
Perhaps an easy way to slow it would be a small p/mag electric motor used as a dynamo, just increase the electrical load to slow it down. A bit like we did with slot-cars, shorting the feed/return for 'dynamic' braking.
 
Wow wow wow, I have seen a few Water Mills in Model Form and this is the only one that has ever had a realistic natural feel to it. Almost looks like it has been present for ever. Once you fully 'plant' the building in place the effect will be even greater. A little Moss would certainly help with the effect, perhaps some Rowlands Mix round the edges? Super inspiring project.
 
dunnyrail said:
Wow wow wow, I have seen a few Water Mills in Model Form and this is the only one that has ever had a realistic natural feel to it. Almost looks like it has been present for ever. Once you fully 'plant' the building in place the effect will be even greater. A little Moss would certainly help with the effect, perhaps some Rowlands Mix round the edges? Super inspiring project.
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Hi Jon
Thanks for the suggestion. That part of the garden has no difficulty with moss growth (shaded and north facing) - my problem will be to stop the moss taking over.

Just been working on the sluice gate. Awaiting delivery of a plastic rack and pinion before posting about it.

Rik
 
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