Foamboard mill

ge_rik

ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
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Coincidentally with this thread - https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/my-first-foam-board-building.309838/ - I am also in the process of completing my first foamboard building - a water mill based (loosely) on those around my surrounding area (where my railway is set). Many thanks to Mike Duffy (Lazy Grange Bay) for his inspiration and guidance on the forum and elsewhere (eg GR mag). I've now become a HUGE fan of foamboard and wonder how on earth I've managed without it all these years.

A couple of the local mills on which I'm basing my model.
IMG_6685.JPG IMG_6695.JPG

Progress so far:
IMG_6593.JPG IMG_6595.JPG

The missing brickwork on the rear of the building is deliberate as it will abut a raised siding. The leanto building is deliberately skewed to fit the available space.

Have now filled and scribed the brickwork for the corners and applied the barge boards and so the next stage is to apply primer and finishing paintwork.

I was wondering how to represent the small paned windows when I came across these in my local pound shop.
IMG_6545.JPG

A bit of trimming and slicing and they look reasonably like window panes.
IMG_6559.JPG

Slicing them in half gives me two for the price of one (if I can keep my hand steady enough)
IMG_6554.JPG

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
Coincidentally with this thread - https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/my-first-foam-board-building.309838/ - I am also in the process of completing my first foamboard building - a water mill based (loosely) on those around my surrounding area (where my railway is set). Many thanks to Mike Duffy (Lazy Grange Bay) for his inspiration and guidance on the forum and elsewhere (eg GR mag). I've now become a HUGE fan of foamboard and wonder how on earth I've managed without it all these years.

A couple of the local mills on which I'm basing my model.
View attachment 228736 View attachment 228737

Progress so far:
View attachment 228738 View attachment 228739

The missing brickwork on the rear of the building is deliberate as it will abut a raised siding. The leanto building is deliberately skewed to fit the available space.

Have now filled and scribed the brickwork for the corners and applied the barge boards and so the next stage is to apply primer and finishing paintwork.

I was wondering how to represent the small paned windows when I came across these in my local pound shop.
View attachment 228740

A bit of trimming and slicing and they look reasonably like window panes.
View attachment 228741

Slicing them in half gives me two for the price of one (if I can keep my hand steady enough)
View attachment 228742

Rik
Click to expand...
It's going to be b****y difficult playing badminton now :swear::swear::swear::swear::swear::swear::swear::swear:
 
I don't what to make to much of a racket....... but where can you get "foam board" from?
 
Nice idea Rik
For structural integrity, if the building will be out in all weathers, is to run a good bead of sealant down the inside of the corner joints (and where roof meets walls).
I also do this for buildings constructed from plastic kit and kit-bashes as well.
Or, as for wooden buildings, glue a square section strip (1/2" x 1/2") on the inside of the joint.
Plastic square section strip is also good as it can be extended for a fewinches below the walls and used as anchor into the ground to help keep the building in place in high winds!
 
Just make sure your board has a plastic exterior - some are paper.
Larger sheets are available from print shops and their suppliers.
 
I admire your patience in scribing all those bricks. But the result is worth it.
Now don't tell me you'll be painting each brick individually. :eek:
The idea of using the racquets for windows is brilliant. I'll have to visit a $2 shop here to 'check them out'.
 
ge_rik said:
http://www.foamboardonline.co.uk/5mm_Foam_PVC/5mm_Foam_PVC_A3

£1 per A3 sheet ( + £10 postage for a pack of 10 sheets)

Rik
Click to expand...

I tried buying a pack (to be delivered to my son's N.I. address). Order was accepted and paid for via Paypal. Later in the day it was cancelled and money refunded - problem with web site was the reason. Maybe they don't post outside of the mainland UK?

I've looked at other sites (on eBay) but there is no info as to if it's card clad or pvc - Foamex being used as a generic term (misleading). I have the card stuff and used it for buildings on the trailer layout but would love to have the plastic for my garden line!
 
trammayo said:
I tried buying a pack (to be delivered to my son's N.I. address). Order was accepted and paid for via Paypal. Later in the day it was cancelled and money refunded - problem with web site was the reason. Maybe they don't post outside of the mainland UK?

I've looked at other sites (on eBay) but there is no info as to if it's card clad or pvc - Foamex being used as a generic term (misleading). I have the card stuff and used it for buildings on the trailer layout but would love to have the plastic for my garden line!
Click to expand...
Ask the local estate agent for a supplier.
 
a98087 said:
Very nice modelling there, just wonderland approx what size did you score all the bricks?

Dan
Click to expand...
Brickwork is nominally 225 mm x 75 mm - that includes approx 10 mm for mortar joints

So, at 1:22.5, it should be 10 mm x 3 mm :clap::clap:

That may be a bit tedious, or practically impossible with the material involved, so you could start to apply LGB's rubber ruler, but at least you know the starting point.

By trying to count the courses, it looks as if Rik has eased things a bit, so his brick courses look to be about 4 mm which scales out at 90 mm :nod::nod:
 
If you use the 'patented Mike Duffy' method...
You use an old screwdriver to do the scoring.. The end of the blade is used to make the vertical mortar-joints..

I think the width of the screwdriver blade sets the height of the courses..
 
stockers said:
Ask the local estate agent for a supplier.
Click to expand...

Corroflute seems to be the choice around here - I donated my stock of that product to a community project with the intention of getting some foam board:banghead:
 
trammayo said:
Corroflute seems to be the choice around here - I donated my stock of that product to a community project with the intention of getting some foam board:banghead:
Click to expand...

If Corroflute is the same as Correx it is not the same as Foamex.

Try here for Foamex.

According to this web site http://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk...OsNgUhoUgEB92RDYWkgY5bBeEdes5xVRoCURAQAvD_BwE

It is also known as Foamalite, Forex and Palight.

From the web site -

Our rates are for delivery anywhere in the UK*.

*Please Note: Some post codes (e.g. Isle of Wight and Scottish Highlands, N Ireland) incur excess shipping charges and we reserve the right to request this from our customers before shipment. Should you decide you do not want to incur this additional cost, you may cancel your order with no costs being incurred.
 
PhilP said:
If you use the 'patented Mike Duffy' method...
You use an old screwdriver to do the scoring.. The end of the blade is used to make the vertical mortar-joints..

I think the width of the screwdriver blade sets the height of the courses..
Click to expand...
OK, so what size screwdriver do you use? :p:p:p

Like most things in the building industry, the unit of measurement is a firkin, usually used in multiples of two.

So do you use the screwdriver that is two firkin small, or the one that is two firkin large :swear::swear::swear::swear::swear::swear:
 
Rhinochugger said:
OK, so what size screwdriver do you use? :p:p:p

Like most things in the building industry, the unit of measurement is a firkin, usually used in multiples of two.

So do you use the screwdriver that is two firkin small, or the one that is two firkin large :swear::swear::swear::swear::swear::swear:
Click to expand...

No, just one that looks firkin right to me!
:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
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