Filcris (again)

[Rhinochugger]

OK, after all my gobbing off, I now realise two things:

Firstly, the tight-ish bend is made up of a 10ft radius - 8ft radius - 10ft radius combination

Secondly, as I have what is effectively an 'S' bend, I'd never see the result of any expansion anyway

Piccies, to assist, as promised

 

[GNB]

I've been testing the pre-cut Filcris curves (R3) on this raised section over the last couple of years and it seems to be reasonably logtitudinally stable when exposed to extreme changes in temperature. It does require some under support to stop it sagging.

This shows part of section that covers slightly more than a semi-circle, on a significantly raised turning loop. Note the grey plastic edging, that covers the unsightly composite core, shows no sign of movement.



I know that many of you are not partial to either the height or the wooden supports but I must admit that I have not found any problems. The extreme slope makes this the only way I can extend a railway in that part of the garden. I also carefully select, store and treat the timber before use.

We do have an extreme climate, but having high ground to the West gives us a slightly drier climate than the far West and being on the side of a large alluvial valley gives us very good drainage.

As the OP commented, I too think I will outlive the problems. I've always thought that garden railway construction, like gardening, is a dynamic pastime rather tha a Forth Bridge/Capability Brown type of solution.

 

[Rhinochugger]

I've been testing the pre-cut Filcris curves (R3) on this raised section over the last couple of years and it seems to be reasonably logtitudinally stable when exposed to extreme changes in temperature. It does require some under support to stop it sagging.

This shows part of section that covers slightly more than a semi-circle, on a significantly raised turning loop. Note the grey plastic edging, that covers the unsightly composite core, shows no sign of movement.

View attachment 224115

I know that many of you are not partial to either the height or the wooden supports but I must admit that I have not found any problems. The extreme slope makes this the only way I can extend a railway in that part of the garden. I also carefully select, store and treat the timber before use.

We do have an extreme climate, but having high ground to the West gives us a slightly drier climate than the far West and being on the side of a large alluvial valley gives us very good drainage.

As the OP commented, I too think I will outlive the problems. I've always thought that garden railway construction, like gardening, is a dynamic pastime rather tha a Forth Bridge/Capability Brown type of solution.

Yes, I agree and thus favour the Col Stephens approach - keep it light, keep it simple - if it moves, relaying it is minimal upheaval.

 

[Ralphmp]

I've been testing the pre-cut Filcris curves (R3) on this raised section over the last couple of years and it seems to be reasonably logtitudinally stable when exposed to extreme changes in temperature. It does require some under support to stop it sagging.

This shows part of section that covers slightly more than a semi-circle, on a significantly raised turning loop. Note the grey plastic edging, that covers the unsightly composite core, shows no sign of movement.

Like the edging - very neat.

 

[playmofire]

Yes, it looks very smart.

 

[PhilP]

Could you tell us what the 'grey plastic edging' is please?

Thanks in advance..

 

[GNB]

Could you tell us what the 'grey plastic edging' is please?

Thanks in advance..

No problem - It's white plastic edging, painted grey .


......or more helpfully, 25 X 5 X 2400mm PVC lip edge moulding or lipping moulding available at the usual suspects, Wickes, B & Q, etc etc.

Hope that helps

 

[Zerogee]

No problem - It's white plastic edging, painted grey .


......or more helpfully, 25 X 5 X 2400mm PVC lip edge moulding or lipping moulding available at the usual suspects, Wickes, B & Q, etc etc.

Hope that helps

How is the edging strip attached to the Filcris - glued, screwed, nailed....?

Jon.

 

[GNB]

How is the edging strip attached to the Filcris - glued, screwed, nailed....?

Jon.

Glued, or rather bonded, with rapid setting outdoor polyurethane, but you'll need to be deft with 2.4metres of very flexible PVC and work out how you can best approach the job with a dry run before you reach for the glue. I found a set of lightweight ratcheted quick release clamps are useful both as a guide and to lightly clamp the edge in place. Don't overtighten the clamps. The outer circumference is more difficult than the inner and thus I always start on the inner side to get me off to a good start. Straight sections are relatively quick and easy, if you can stay clear of any obstructions.

Not had any disasters, but it is essential you keep the workplace clear and you are well organised with your tools. Older work clothes and lots of disposable nitrile gloves with damp clothes and non fluffy kitchen towel all help. Leave the excess glue to set (ca 15 mins) before you can easily remove it before it finally cures.

If you're not used to the modern rapid bonding adhesives be sure to practice with some scrap material so you get a feel for how best to apply it, the amount (less than you would think) and the setting times.

There must be lot's of alternative glues, mastics and attachment techniques, I just use what works for me.

As an aside - where I run cables from points and loops in the turning loop with the curved Filcris sections, I use 25mm cable trunking painted in the same colour screwed into the straight wooden sections of decking that I use on the straights. It exactly makes up the difference in width between the wooden decking and the pre-cut Filcris and gives a seamless appearance. Look in this image (different angle to that in post #22), at the section below the locomotive, the Miele & OEG goods wagons, to see were the trunking was was used.



The oldest track section with the applied plastic edging strip, using the described technique, can be seen on the section (supported by the odd brown painted wooden uprights) in the foreground of this image. This has been in place for about 5 years but the track bed and supports are considerably older. The rack railway has only been in place for a couple of years but appears to be holding up well.

I just find that the bonded edging gives a smooth, cohesive look to the railway and and surprisingly appears to make the structure blend into a garden surrounded by granite.

But that's only my view, I'm sure you will find what works for you.

 

[PhilP]

Thank you for the additional information..

 

[Rhinochugger]

I'm sure you will find what works for you.

As you will have noticed with my short filcris section, I come from Eidelberg

My excuse is that it reminds me of this - well this wasn't quite the picture that I was searching for - there is another low level bridge in the Owens Valley with even less woodwork.

 

[Zerogee]

Glued, or rather bonded, with rapid setting outdoor polyurethane, but you'll need to be deft with 2.4metres of very flexible PVC and work out how you can best approach the job with a dry run before you reach for the glue. I found a set of lightweight ratcheted quick release clamps are useful both as a guide and to lightly clamp the edge in place. Don't overtighten the clamps. The outer circumference is more difficult than the inner and thus I always start on the inner side to get me off to a good start. Straight sections are relatively quick and easy, if you can stay clear of any obstructions.

Not had any disasters, but it is essential you keep the workplace clear and you are well organised with your tools. Older work clothes and lots of disposable nitrile gloves with damp clothes and non fluffy kitchen towel all help. Leave the excess glue to set (ca 15 mins) before you can easily remove it before it finally cures.

If you're not used to the modern rapid bonding adhesives be sure to practice with some scrap material so you get a feel for how best to apply it, the amount (less than you would think) and the setting times.

There must be lot's of alternative glues, mastics and attachment techniques, I just use what works for me.

As an aside - where I run cables from points and loops in the turning loop with the curved Filcris sections, I use 25mm cable trunking painted in the same colour screwed into the straight wooden sections of decking that I use on the straights. It exactly makes up the difference in width between the wooden decking and the pre-cut Filcris and gives a seamless appearance. Look in this image (different angle to that in post #22), at the section below the locomotive, the Miele & OEG goods wagons, to see were the trunking was was used.

View attachment 224124

The oldest track section with the applied plastic edging strip, using the described technique, can be seen on the section (supported by the odd brown painted wooden uprights) in the foreground of this image. This has been in place for about 5 years but the track bed and supports are considerably older. The rack railway has only been in place for a couple of years but appears to be holding up well.

I just find that the bonded edging gives a smooth, cohesive look to the railway and and surprisingly appears to make the structure blend into a garden surrounded by granite.

But that's only my view, I'm sure you will find what works for you.

Thanks for the info - I don't have any current plans to use any Filcris (or indeed to have any elevated track), I was curious because I couldn't see the heads of any fixings in your pics - obviously because you've used glue! The detailed notes are much appreciated though, they all add to the overall knowledge base that GSC is so good for!
Jon.

 

[Rhinochugger]

OK then, so how do you recycle recycled materials ?

What do I do with the offcuts ? (which I have only just got around to clearing up off the shed floor - remember, I erected my filcris viaduct in the pouring rain somewhere around last November, so had to use the electric saw in da shed, and have been tripping over the bits ever since )

Not only but also, I have a few spare 45 mm spacer blocks if anybody wants - quite weighty, so there's probably a £5 for carriage by Hermes if you're not in the area - S'pose I'll have to go an' count them now

 

[dunnyrail]

Filcris offcuts are useable for all sorts of things. The blocks can be made into Solid Concrete Block Siding end stops or even made up ones as I have shown in my Buffer Stop Thread. Short flat pieces can be used for Platforms or perhaps holding buildings in place by being cut to the inside shape and screwing down. If buildings go indoors for the winter no damage will occur to the Filcris. I always keep a few offcuts around, even raiding Filcris Skip once (with permission) as they are quite close to where I live. I have made an acceptable Bonsai Tray out of FIlcris bits as well.
JonD

 

[nimbus]

Hi, about 10 years ago we had our gutters and facias replaced. I used the old wood facias to make this elevated track. used Metposts, and 2inch wood posts. I had prev iously re-roofed the shed, so had some felt, and bitumen left over, so covered the wooden track with felt. its been in the garden now for 9 years. no problems.
not a very costly job, cos I`m a tight fisted sod.
Clarry Chapman

 

[TheMartin]

I seem to remember Filcris show this method on their site as a result of an idea sent in by a user as it solves the problem of expansion and contraction.

There was a photo on their site, but I can't find it now.

They have moved their site around quite quickly. Here's a photo from our line showing the same method https://www.facebook.com/soarvalley...7480354112283/677798059080510/?type=1&theater

There's not much need for the top boards other than flexibility of placement as you could fix track straight onto the "runner" section of the "Ladder". Our oldest section of Filcris is in full sun and has been down for 3 years and we've never seen expansion. Personally I think the particle boards are more susceptible.