Experimenting with permanent road bed.

[trammayo]

I used Thermolite/Celcon Blocks on 3 of my earlier Railways going as far back as 1983. Moved from 1983 line in 1987 then built another line using them moved from that in 2000 to another which was left in 2012. All were still in near perfect condition when I left. Would appear to me that these blocks stop egress of Water thus discouraging Frost Breakup as shown in Stockers Pics of Concrete Blocks. Though having said that I have used Breeze Blocks in the Ruschbahn 2004-2013 and my curent line 2013 (which also has Concrete Blocks cos they were the cheepest) to present with no sign of damage. So you pays yer money and takes yer blocks.
JonD

You would think that aerated blocks (by their very description) would allow moisture penetration which might then suffer from frost damage! But obviously they don't. Cannot get them out here unless you buy by the pallet load.

 

[stockers]

The issue I found with blocks/bricks/etc. is that if you lay the track directly on them, you don't get smooth track because you get a "bump" (or potential bump) every 8 inches to a foot.

Then the best thing is to put some ballast between the bricks and the track. I found that once I had a bed of ballast, the bricks were superfluous.

So I went to all ballast, and ensured drainage.

Greg

Each to their own of course Greg but I don't have a problem with bumps between blocks. I do lay them with a bed of sharp sand - similar to laying paving slabs - maybe this helps.
I lightly tack the track to the blocks (they take screws and nails easily if you didn't know) otherwise the ballast gets underneath the sleepers in an irregular manner and makes the line uneven - makes point frogs rise in some cases which is not good for electrical connectivity.

 

[Paul M]

Thanks for the info on the blocks guys, sorry about hijacking the thread Huh, but hopefully it'll help you with your layout.

 

[seigezapf]

I also think you might want a little wider bricks, but I suppose it depends on the terrain and growth in the area where you are laying track.. I used 12 by 12 concrete pavers laid directly on the ground. Every six feet or so I laid a section of landscape timber between adjacent blocks. The track is screwed down to the landscape timbers. I then covered the blocks with topsoil and small bark. The width of the blocks keeps plant growth from growing near the track. My ground is a high percentage of clay, so I suppose there is heaving with moisture, though it is like concrete when it is dry. My track has only been up a few years, but I haven't had any problems with plant growth or bouncing (track is very smooth). Lots and lots of fallen leaves are easily cleared with a whisk broom.

Here is a photo during construction.

 

[Huh? What?]

Plant growth isn't going to be much of a problem, nothing much grows under the pine trees. And we're not, currently, planning to screw the track down.

 

[G-force1]

You would think that aerated blocks (by their very description) would allow moisture penetration which might then suffer from frost damage! But obviously they don't. Cannot get them out here unless you buy by the pallet load.

Im told they are suitable for foundation work, so dont suffer frost damage. No doubt someone will confirm. I have to say they dont seem to hold water as badly as breeze blocks.

 

[stockers]

Im told they are suitable for foundation work, so dont suffer frost damage. No doubt someone will confirm. I have to say they dont seem to hold water as badly as breeze blocks.

Correct.

 

[Huh? What?]

Im told they are suitable for foundation work, so dont suffer frost damage. No doubt someone will confirm. I have to say they dont seem to hold water as badly as breeze blocks.

My wife, the building inspector, says aerated block is great stuff for buildings. Completely fireproof, strong, zero moisture problems, and fairly lightweight. And expensive.

 

[stockers]

And expensive.

Not locally around here. About the same as concrete blocks - about a pound each plus the tax. (In bulk)

 

[PhilP]

Perhaps that should have been Inexpensive??

 

[beavercreek]

The area the track is in is under mainly pine trees. No ballast will make cleaning up pine needles easier, and grass growth will be minimum.

I also have the unenviable task of continually clearing pine needles off a section of my layout that runs directly under a large 'weeping' pine.

What I have done is to glue down the 1mm-2mm ballast using waterproof PVA.
Three years have past and it is still holding up well and allows me to vacuum up the needles .

 

[Rhinochugger]

Perhaps that should have been Inexpensive??

Possibly not, remembering that a lot of US houses are timber built.

Most of the cost of that type of material (bricks, blocks, sand, ballast etc) is in the transport

 

[Huh? What?]

This assumes we're talking about the same block. The aerated block I'm talking about is made from concrete that uses volcanic material and is put in a vacuum form to be puffed up into the full-sized block? If so, it's about two or two and a half times what was quoted above, depending on your source.

 

[Huh? What?]

a valid message

 

[G-force1]

This assumes we're talking about the same block. The aerated block I'm talking about is made from concrete that uses volcanic material and is put in a vacuum form to be puffed up into the full-sized block? If so, it's about two or two and a half times what was quoted above, depending on your source.

You can cut 'em with a old wood saw, or carve them they weigh only about the same as a house brick (well maybe two). Bought a couple the other day for less than £3.

 

[TLR]

You can cut 'em with a old wood saw, or carve them they weigh only about the same as a house brick (well maybe two). Bought a couple the other day for less than £3.

I'm thinking of making an engine shed with celcon blocks was wondering if anybody has any experience of how thin it's possible to cut them ?

Shaun

 

[PhilP]

I'm thinking of making an engine shed with celcon blocks was wondering if anybody has any experience of how thin it's possible to cut them ?

Shaun

That possibly depends how steady your hand is whilst cutting?? - If the saw snags, and twists, you may crack the piece you are cutting.
Anything much-less than an inch, will probably be too fragile??

 

[Paul M]

Im told they are suitable for foundation work, so dont suffer frost damage. No doubt someone will confirm. I have to say they dont seem to hold water as badly as breeze blocks.

I know that they float!

 

[stockers]

This assumes we're talking about the same block. The aerated block I'm talking about is made from concrete that uses volcanic material and is put in a vacuum form to be puffed up into the full-sized block? If so, it's about two or two and a half times what was quoted above, depending on your source.

Slightly different then. celcons, thermalites, et al, are made from concrete and slag waste from coal power stations. The chemical properties of the slag create the puffing up you refer to.
So, similar but not identical by the sounds of it.
And the decrease in popularity of coal fired power stations is reducing availability..

 

[dunnyrail]

I'm thinking of making an engine shed with celcon blocks was wondering if anybody has any experience of how thin it's possible to cut them ?

Shaun

I have made Viaducts with them, on the Ruschbahn we had a very large one indeed. Utilised them with Steel Rods in the middle to get the 3ft High slender pillars around 3-4 inches wide. But as Phillip says much smaller than 1 inch would be a little on the brittle side. If you are going to saw them quite narrow would suggest you do it on a firm bench with perhaps the block held by Clamps with wood to protect the Block, then allow only a little over the edge say not much more than you wish to cut with a good sharp saw.
JonD