Eureka! I have found the solution to my LGB R3 problems

KeithT

KeithT

Hillwalking, chickens and - err - garden railways.
Country flag
It's called Piko. :D
Several of myLGB R3s have become unusable in particular by Bachmann locos or Caledonia.
Late last year I bought a Piko replacement but have only just stirred myself to fit it.
Result? Instant success, everything runs through it like oiled silk.
Closer inspection of the removed LGB point reveals that not only was it inadequately ground on both the stock rail and the curved moving rail but there is also an inward cant at the top of that rail. This was a new point fitted because I was having similar trouble with the original one.

I shall now copper-up to replace all of them with Piko.
 
KeithT said:
It' called Piko. :D
Several of myLGB R3s have become unusable in particular by Bachmann locos or Caledonia.
Late last year I bought a Piko replacement but have only just stirred myself to fit it.
Result? Instant success, everything runs through it like oiled silk.
Closer inspection of the removed LGB point reveals that not only was it inadequately ground on both the stock rail and the curved moving rail but there is also an inward cant at the top of that rail. This was a new point fitted because I was having similar trouble with the original one.

I shall now copper-up to replace all of them with Piko.
Click to expand...

Do you have a picture to show what those 2 issues are please Keith?

I have a couple of LGB R3s, but I've had no problems with my LGB stock or my Bachmann Tram.

One thing to check with your points is the pivot screw for the point blades, as I have known these to become loose over time. Maybe this is causing the cant? Also, do you use a TCL on your track? Just wondering why the rails have been grinded....
 
Gizzy said:
KeithT said:
It' called Piko. :D
Several of myLGB R3s have become unusable in particular by Bachmann locos or Caledonia.
Late last year I bought a Piko replacement but have only just stirred myself to fit it.
Result? Instant success, everything runs through it like oiled silk.
Closer inspection of the removed LGB point reveals that not only was it inadequately ground on both the stock rail and the curved moving rail but there is also an inward cant at the top of that rail. This was a new point fitted because I was having similar trouble with the original one.

I shall now copper-up to replace all of them with Piko.
Click to expand...

Do you have a picture to show what those 2 issues are please Keith?

I have a couple of LGB R3s, but I've had no problems with my LGB stock or my Bachmann Tram.

One thing to check with your points is the pivot screw for the point blades, as I have known these to become loose over time. Maybe this is causing the cant? Also, do you use a TCL on your track? Just wondering why the rails have been grinded....
Click to expand...
I am afraid the only camera which could have focussed close enough has just gone on the blink!
I do use a track cleaner loco but that hasn't caused the problem. The inadequate grinding is in the chamfering of the moving curved rail, it does not narrow down sufficiently and to add to the problem the "undercut" in the fixed rail is insufficient. When the curved rail moves across it should bed into the fixed rail and present a smooth inner face. Bachmann and Accucraft locos have different wheel profiles to LGB and the tendency is for the flange to get between the rails and force them open. It doesn't just affect those locos though because this is what happened to my LGB Saxon a few days ago
91ae3f7ad4a447059fe6487c3f86ed1d.jpg

Several times around in reverse without a problem and then this happens. Enough to bring tears to the eyes!
 
Funnily enough I've had an R3 go like that this winter. The point rail wouldn't bed into the stock rail. At first I thought it was the motor or some stray ballast, but it turned out to have acquired the mysterious inward cant Keith referred to above. The reason they wouldn't bed in was that the point rail at the pivot end was jamming against the running rail. I suspect the screws Gizzy refers to may need a tighten, but I am reluctant to lift the point, so I've straightened up the point rail and put a shim in - we'll see how long it lasts.
 
try to google it...there should be someone to sell R3 guardrail-extensions.

I had some R3 (replaced it all) and tried that thing out: it worked well!

The Bachmann Connies had no chance to go over the one or other R3 backwards, but with a longer and a bit tighter guardrail, it worked.


Frank
 
Dtsteam said:
Funnily enough I've had an R3 go like that this winter. The point rail wouldn't bed into the stock rail. At first I thought it was the motor or some stray ballast, but it turned out to have acquired the mysterious inward cant Keith referred to above. The reason they wouldn't bed in was that the point rail at the pivot end was jamming against the running rail. I suspect the screws Gizzy refers to may need a tighten, but I am reluctant to lift the point, so I've straightened up the point rail and put a shim in - we'll see how long it lasts.
Click to expand...

I checked the screws, both tight so I bent the point rail v carefully so that it looks right and beds into the stock rail better but I won't reuse it until I have given it a proper testing. If I do re-use it it will go onto a rack extension and I can't afford to have anyhting derail on that!!
 
Aljosha said:
oops! ;-)

And that's a R5, isn't it?!?!
Click to expand...

No it's R3 I don't have any 5s. Until I tried the Piko point I was contemplating getting some but the price made my eyes water.
 
coyote97 said:
try to google it...there should be someone to sell R3 guardrail-extensions.

I had some R3 (replaced it all) and tried that thing out: it worked well!

The Bachmann Connies had no chance to go over the one or other R3 backwards, but with a longer and a bit tighter guardrail, it worked.


Frank
Click to expand...
I made up a new guard rail from brass track but did not fit it. I found it easier to replace the point!8|
 
Neil Robinson said:
coyote97 said:
try to google it...there should be someone to sell R3 guardrail-extensions.

Frank
Click to expand...

My German is very poor but I think the
http://www.modell-werkstatt.de/glei...satz-radlenker-fuer-lgb-weichen-radius-3.html < Link To Vorsatz-Radlenker für LGB-Weichen Radius 3

Art.Nr.: 03902
on the following link may be the parts to which you refer.
http://www.modell-werkstatt.de/gleissystem/weichen/index-2.html



Click to expand...

How would they fit? Would it be by cutting slots in the sleepers?
 
forgot to tell how to built them in:

its quite easy (i found so...)
You just drill 4 holes in the ties. Fit the guardrail in and bend the pins on the underside of the ties.

To have a good fitting, u should bend the guard (its thin, so: very easy to bend) to the diameter of the original guard AND give it a stronger "start" and "leave" bend for about ...say...half an inch each side.
making the rail-diameter a BIT smaller than the switchrail helps to keep the new guard tighter to the original one. but dont overdo it, because at some point, it starts to bend back in in the middle. just a bit sharper than the original guard.....
When u have bent it, hold it to the switch and mark the points where to drill. Be careful to hit the middle of the ties as good as possible.
Bending the pins in the right directions make the guardrail fitting tighter to the original guard.

Frank
 
coyote97 said:
forgot to tell how to built them in:

its quite easy (i found so...)
You just drill 4 holes in the ties. Fit the guardrail in and bend the pins on the underside of the ties.

To have a good fitting, u should bend the guard (its thin, so: very easy to bend) to the diameter of the original guard AND give it a stronger "start" and "leave" bend for about ...say...half an inch each side.
making the rail-diameter a BIT smaller than the switchrail helps to keep the new guard tighter to the original one. but dont overdo it, because at some point, it starts to bend back in in the middle. just a bit sharper than the original guard.....
When u have bent it, hold it to the switch and mark the points where to drill. Be careful to hit the middle of the ties as good as possible.
Bending the pins in the right directions make the guardrail fitting tighter to the original guard.

Frank
Click to expand...
Thanks for that.
It couldn't be simpler, even I could manage it.:D
 
This is great information to avoid many of us suffering with R3 problems, many thanks to all of you.
Jose
 
Allow me for a couple of additional question,
to fit the new brass guardrail to LGB-R3 switches do I need to remove the existing short plastic guardrail ??, how? with a dremmel ?. I am asuming that the brass guardrail is only needed in the curved side of the switch, not in the straight part, am I correct?.
Thanks for clarifying.
jose
 
KeithT said:
It's called Piko. :D
Several of myLGB R3s have become unusable in particular by Bachmann locos or Caledonia.
Late last year I bought a Piko replacement but have only just stirred myself to fit it.
Result? Instant success, everything runs through it like oiled silk.
Closer inspection of the removed LGB point reveals that not only was it inadequately ground on both the stock rail and the curved moving rail but there is also an inward cant at the top of that rail. This was a new point fitted because I was having similar trouble with the original one.

I shall now copper-up to replace all of them with Piko.
Click to expand...

Just an update, 2 new Piko points bought at the last GSS meet in Altrincham and when I bestir myself they will be laid. The LGB R3s will be relegated to the as yet to be built rack line as the rack locos are able to negotiate them without problems.
 
Thank you 798.03, at least you saved me making a mess by removing the existing checkrail. I surely will find out "the right way".:bigsmile:
Jose
 
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