Eighton Bahn AKA testing testing RhB

Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

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21 Nov 2013
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Today has seen some un fettling, to ease things over a bit...

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121705_fc1f254d998757150344fad0b6e6d2ae.jpg


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...that should meet with approval in certain quarters, eh Phil...;)

Also in a momentous well moment the railway became a true garden railway, as in it finally touched the grass...

121710_7d87171e3314d53d248054fdb9ee5fe8.jpg


...although all is not what it appears...

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...whilst there is a incline, there is also a change in topography so its more of the ground rising up, so the last slab is sitting on a bed of concrete.
Whilst it is not looking too promising at the moment and a bag of sand is in place to help it stick, going to give it a day or so to take.

Henge building will resume after the curve to make a gradual incline to the next curve.

So this afternoon was spent fishplate mangling, as in changing LGB ones to Aristo/Bachman ones.
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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Today has seen some un fettling, to ease things over a bit...

View attachment 251270

View attachment 251271

View attachment 251272

...that should meet with approval in certain quarters, eh Phil...;)

Also in a momentous well moment the railway became a true garden railway, as in it finally touched the grass...

View attachment 251273

...although all is not what it appears...

View attachment 251274

...whilst there is a incline, there is also a change in topography so its more of the ground rising up, so the last slab is sitting on a bed of concrete.
Whilst it is not looking too promising at the moment and a bag of sand is in place to help it stick, going to give it a day or so to take.

Henge building will resume after the curve to make a gradual incline to the next curve.

So this afternoon was spent fishplate mangling, as in changing LGB ones to Aristo/Bachman ones.
Hope I am wrong but in this heat drying too fast can be an issue. When doing Bricks last year in the heat I was dunking them in water prior to laying. If your slabs have not worked a good spray with some water on both surfaces prior to the Cement and plonking in place will help a lot in this heat.
 
Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

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All cementing surfaces were given the soak treatment prior to installation, then the spraying with water at intervals afterwards. it normally works, fingers crossed will be checking later.

But looks as if it will be grass cutting will be the only garden activity today.
 
JimmyB

JimmyB

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It would seem too hot and its no good for cement, and too cold can just be as bad, good job the UK has a nice constant heat range :)
 
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Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

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All cementing surfaces were given the soak treatment prior to installation, then the spraying with water at intervals afterwards. it normally works, fingers crossed will be checking later.

But looks as if it will be grass cutting will be the only garden activity today.
The old specification for brick laying was that all bricks should be well wetted - on't know how they managed to stop the lime mortar running, but that was the spec - which architect's still used and everybody ignored in the '60s and '70s with sand faced flettons :lipssealed::lipssealed::lipssealed:
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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The old specification for brick laying was that all bricks should be well wetted - on't know how they managed to stop the lime mortar running, but that was the spec - which architect's still used and everybody ignored in the '60s and '70s with sand faced flettons :lipssealed::lipssealed::lipssealed:
Last year when I was doing my Pond in the very hot weather only way to get Bricks properly Bonded was to Soak in a Bucket of Water just before laying. Bucket took 3 so as I laid the 3, 3 more went in to soak while I furtled the 3 just laid then applied mortar for the next 3 etc etc etc.
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

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Last year when I was doing my Pond in the very hot weather only way to get Bricks properly Bonded was to Soak in a Bucket of Water just before laying. Bucket took 3 so as I laid the 3, 3 more went in to soak while I furtled the 3 just laid then applied mortar for the next 3 etc etc etc.
That leads on to the next debate - is the mortar there to hold the bricks together, or to keep them apart :nerd::nerd::nerd::nerd:

The reality is that for normal masonry, the bond between brick / block is fairly inconsequential because un-reinforced masonry has no lateral strength (worth speaking of).

We're back to Ken Follet's 'Pillars of the Earth' :nod::nod:
 
Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

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Talking of "Earth" dug some of that up...

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...for the non henge, curve...

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...which is now sort of in and level, with a falling gradient of sorts.

The next section is marked out for henge supports, and the slabs cut, 20 half sections to be going on with...

122213_aa27156270cb6b0d4ee1426ef00adea8.jpg


...well it's actually 19 half sections and a smashed one, but no doubt it will get used.

Finally a dodgy picture just to show standards have to be maintained. :eek:

122209_f214a37f5e4151709dc6a0499512d8e0.jpg
 
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Steve

Steve

I didn’t say it was your fault, I said I was b
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Looks brilliant Gordon a credit to you
 
Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

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...and we're off down the slippery slope, slippery as in I haven't tested it yet for train haulage, and slope, well that's what it is.

Anyhow, another nine feet added today...Six henge sections based on the Ribblehead Viaduct principle, there is a thicker (double) support at between henge 3 and 4..

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...think I am up to the start for the next curve...

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...on the half a bubble-ish slope practice, you wouldn't think I have a brand new level still in it's wrapper, would you?

The track is only a temporary install, 4 footers will be replaced with 3, 2 footers and 3 footer ish, when I site the start of the curve.
 
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Alec K

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...and we're off down the slippery slope, slippery as in I haven't tested it yet for train haulage, and slope, well that's what it is.

Anyhow, another nine feet added today...Six henge sections based on the Ribblehead Viaduct principle, there is a thicker (double) support at between henge 3 and 4..

View attachment 252018

...think I am up to the start for the next curve...

View attachment 252019

...on the half a bubble-ish slope practice, you wouldn't think I have a brand new level still in it's wrapper, would you?

The track is only a temporary install, 4 footers will be replaced with 3, 2 footers and 3 footer ish, when I site the start of the curve.
For sheer perseverance, Gordon, you deserve an award! This is looking really good. Like you, looking forward to seeing the inaugural train break the ribbon and head on its way round the system.
 
Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

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For sheer perseverance, Gordon, you deserve an award! This is looking really good. Like you, looking forward to seeing the inaugural train break the ribbon and head on its way round the system.
Phase one is operational,


...as for phase two, it could be a while, given how long phase one took.

123233_fe9e22e76b4cf651742f74c577328e20.jpg
 
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PhilP

PhilP

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Oh, I don't know...
You seem to be progressing quite well..? :think::think:
 
Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

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After adding 9ft of track base yesterday, today has seen the curve go in.

First the four footers were removed and replaced with a 3 and 2 footer assortment to get the nine foot length.

Then...

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...even give the new (had it two years) spirit level a trial...

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...i'll come back to that prop later...

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...building inspector sans coat, has checked it out, including the double henge...

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...you may be able to figure out what is acting as the base support for the cement fill, well it's what is left of my mixing trowel after the handle snapped.

The curve is a temporary fit, until I get the fishplates mangled/drilled and tapped for screw fitting, as per standard here.

So the list of stuff needed to continue on grows, sand, cement, blocks, copper grease and now a mixing trowel.
 
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Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

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Locomotive haulage trials from a standing start up the gradient yesterday were a mixed success. :rolleyes:

Only 619 was the only loco to cope with the intended train, un assisted...

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...the rest, well lets say it was interesting to say the least...

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...so I may have to ease the straight between the two curves, by lifting the base up over the length and the second curve. Adding weight to the loco fleet. Or running shorter trains.

It's not looking good for my spiral plan, looks as if my drop height might have to be changed as well.
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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I think somewhere along the line you are getting the Grade wrong Nod. Certainly reliance on a Location of the Bubble to test the grade is dodgy at best as the difference between half a bubble and say a third could be quite drastic in terms of the Grade created. Far better to use the length of the Spirit Level or say 2 ft - 3ft of it with a piece of 1/2 or 1 Inch Wood at that point to measure 1:40 Grade. That may well have given you a different result to your Tests.
123637_fbc913629d59d738ddddfeeca750a418.jpeg

Plus certainly Poor Little Stainz would not be expected to pull more that 2 of those big Swiss Coaches up a 1:40 or worse without eventual damage.

Perhaps if you go back to basic principles as I suggested some posts back with a Graph of what you are trying to achieve you should get more luck.

As for 619 being the only one that can manage 6 Bogies, perhaps a little test of weight of the Locs may be instructive. Certainly I would expect Crock to be less powerful as it has 6 wheels and that can in certain instances reduce power. As for the Green Diesel I would expect that to be less weight than 619.

Certainly you need to understand exactly the Gradient you have created. A piece of wood 3 ft long marked up to 6inch graduations and an exact 1/2 inch and 1 inch support will tell you to within an inch or two exactly what you have created (as illustrated above). Or long shot if you have an iPhone or iPod there is an App (free) called iHandy Carpenter or iHandy Level that allows the iPhone or iPod to be used to test the Gradient. Though it measures in % this would at least tell you if you have any vastly varying changes.

123639_52d6a40e8be6fcdc57e71b3838ac7320.jpeg


With all of your other commitments your time as you have illustrated is precious, going down a route that creates errors must be frustrating at best.
 
Rhinochugger

Rhinochugger

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Locomotive haulage trials from a standing start up the gradient yesterday were a mixed success. :rolleyes:

Only 619 was the only loco to cope with the intended train, un assisted...

View attachment 252235

...the rest, well lets say it was interesting to say the least...

View attachment 252233


View attachment 252234

View attachment 252236

...so I may have to ease the straight between the two curves, by lifting the base up over the length and the second curve. Adding weight to the loco fleet. Or running shorter trains.

It's not looking good for my spiral plan, looks as if my drop height might have to be changed as well.
I blame the foreman - he looks much too relaxed ;););)
 
Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

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Ok, I am going to mark out a length of timber, I had marked the old spirit level at 2ft from each end and place a 2 sleeper section under as a packing, it's approx. 8mm.

Then I am going to attack the slabs (10 of them) with a hammer from the underside and lift them, re-lay raising the gradient by an inch, the current end curve is levelish, but the first one isn't.

Looking to revise my spiral plan as an "S" curve, but it may not fit in the space, involve building a cutting as well, time will tell.

Then again I after I attack the 10 slabs with the hammer, I might keep going, and do the lot, building rubble/hardcore anyone?

I have a headache now.
 
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