ebay mike
Retired, but still hoarding. (GOF)
That would be a challenge Gizzy as the change is operated by rotating cams with pins - they don't actually travel a full circle so there must be some sort of work drive thingummy inside.
Double Slip or not
- Thread starter GAP
- Start date
ebay mike
Retired, but still hoarding. (GOF)
Have found the 1225 and placed it alongside the 12260. To be honest I think they are both of the same radii and have the same footprint. Again I placed an R2 curve on top - carefully aligning the rail foot at the centre. There is a small piece of the slip rail visible on the inside of the curve which to my mind confirms the radius is just under R2. I confirm the geometry is comparable to R3 with the additional track pieces specified, but NOT the radius. I decided to mimic all the different options and used a brass rubbing kit to copy the railheads. (Purchased two of these in The Works clearout at 50p each. Came in a strong cardboard tube - one of which I've just used to send some bits to Paradise in Oz.) Anyway, photos below. The slip weighs in at 646g so with careful packing might just fit into the 1kg band - tracked and insured around £23. Rip off or what?
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GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
This question really got me thinking and after giving some thought to my options I have come to the conclusion that a double slip would provide a single point of contact where trains could meet (everything has to go through the DS), while a scissors crossing allows two trains to operate without hitting each other.
I must admit I was only thinking of the cost and space saving and really not how the thing operated, will have to look at the situation more closely.
Now that I know that Connie can negotiate R1 curves the scissors crossing is looking like the way to go as I have 4 R1 points and all I would need is crossing.
I have just found 3 R3 points in a box that I hadn't unpacked from my move so they may come into play if I buy 1 more and a crossing.
More thought required.
voodoopenguin
Retired
idlemarvel
Neither idle nor a marvel
If you have decided on scissors crossing and have the necessary R1 points you may want to have a look at some of the Bertram Heyn products for the required crossing. He has a minimum size 60 degree crossing for R1 points, see here:
Die Modellbau-Werkstatt Bertram Heyn: Alles Schöne für die Gartenbahn. Kreuzung 60°, Bausatz
There is also a 45 degree crossing for R2/R3 points:
Die Modellbau-Werkstatt Bertram Heyn: Alles Schöne für die Gartenbahn. Kreuzung 45°, Bausatz
They are available as kits (bausatz) or ready made (fertigmodell).
If you want to go down the R3 route I have a virtually new right hand one I'd be willing to sell.
Gizzy
A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
I have a Heyn diamond crossing (60 degrees) in a scissors formation at the throat of my terminus.
I brought the kit version and found it easy enough to build. It works well too!
The sleeper web is not as thick as LGB though, so you might need a shim underneath....
I brought the kit version and found it easy enough to build. It works well too!
The sleeper web is not as thick as LGB though, so you might need a shim underneath....
Diesel2000
Registered
I have a double slip between my 2 loops. Its basically an R2 length at 22.5 degrees. I've put 1500 and 1600 up to it and it doesnt quite match either. I have not tried any short locos on it as most of my locos are 2 truck diesels. I have mostly R3 curves and it does make 45 degrees by adding an R3 to the 12260 - so it is 22.5 degrees but its shorter than a typical R3 curve.
One issue to consider is that its all-live, so you cant just loop the 2 ends back on each other as it will short. I have isolation joints and use the inner loop as a reversing loop with a PSX-AR. It works great for me. Here is my track plan that shows the position of the LGB double slip as a transition between the 2 loops and allows reversing in both directions.
Here is how the double slip is wired
One issue to consider is that its all-live, so you cant just loop the 2 ends back on each other as it will short. I have isolation joints and use the inner loop as a reversing loop with a PSX-AR. It works great for me. Here is my track plan that shows the position of the LGB double slip as a transition between the 2 loops and allows reversing in both directions.
Here is how the double slip is wired
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Software Tools
Registered
The 1225 slip used a small motor which drove the point blades to either all straight or all curved positions. It was not really an all weather design but worked very nicely for a sheltered setting. Each of the 4 sets on point blades had its own throw bar. The Kuringai Railway had several of them in the Swiss inspired inside-the-garageg station to deliver a compact but very workable layout. There is no straightforward way to adapt a 1225 to use EPL style point motors (there may well not be any other way either). The 1225 had an internal switch which cut off power to the motor when it had reach either end of its travel so it was very easy to control.
The 1226 slip uses two EPL point motors which need to be individually controlled. There is only one throw bar at each end of the slip so the point motors much each be used in different combinations to achieve any particular route through the slip. This is mechanically easier to manufacture but quite a bit harder from an electrical control point of view. I use the 1226 slips on carpet floor layouts and they work well, but it took the grandkids a while to get the hang of what you needed to do to reliable set a route through them. I gave up on electric control and just got them to manually flick the blades until the route did what they needed.
From a reliability point of view, both types have been very good for me in indoor applications.
The 1226 slip uses two EPL point motors which need to be individually controlled. There is only one throw bar at each end of the slip so the point motors much each be used in different combinations to achieve any particular route through the slip. This is mechanically easier to manufacture but quite a bit harder from an electrical control point of view. I use the 1226 slips on carpet floor layouts and they work well, but it took the grandkids a while to get the hang of what you needed to do to reliable set a route through them. I gave up on electric control and just got them to manually flick the blades until the route did what they needed.
From a reliability point of view, both types have been very good for me in indoor applications.
AndyA
Registered
I began building my 'G Scale' about six years ago. My double slip is an LGB one. It is operated using two air actuators and I've little problem with it. My rolling stock is based around the Bachmann large scale Thomas series (for the grandkids) and they love running the system. The only items of rolling stock that have given any problem of the LGB DS have been longer fixed based items like the Thomas' guards van, and Emily coaches. The Thomas loco very occasionally objects to the R1 curve. Two things improved and reduced the running problems; 1. Speed - nice and gentle usually ensures good progress (Had to train the kids to 'watch their speed') and 2. Ensure that the double slip unit itself is PERFECTLY levelled and aligned to the approach tracks.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps