Double Crossing

[MR SPOCK]

[align=center]If you look at the last pic close up you can just see the link wire on the right, this goes from front to back, on the right side you can just see the oppositte wire, there are no other wiring componants, all the rails are live, there are no switches to go wrong, and there is no need to worry about the moving blades are soldered and are live also, the only two peices not live are the two diamond one of which is highlighted in the red circle,that would need a switch , but as my locos can bridge the lenght there is no problem, even my very little speeder can cope

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[steven large]

what a exellent tracks work u did spock!!! it good to have yr own way scatchbuiting a tracks""""....save monies......wink........

 

[royale]

A truly excellant piece of work - very well done.

 

[Martino]

I'm hugely impressed. That's amazing. I thought of trying to build just one simple turnout myself and decided it was all just too complex, so gave up.

Hats off to you, Sir.

 

[Zerogee]

Looks fantastic, excellent piece of work!
For those of us without the skills or nerve to even THINK about trying to build something like this, is it possible (track geometry wise) to do something similar with off-the-shelf trackage, say, 4 LGB R1 points and a 30 degree diamond crossing in the middle?

 

[bobg]

Well done you!!! Not the easiest thing to build neat and tidy. Keeping gauge was fun too I bet

 

[Wobbleboxer]

Mr Spock, what Peco parts did you use? Is it code 250? Excellent job by the way?

 

[trammayo]

Brilliant model engineering. Can I ask a dumb question (or two)? When I built a "Y" point - first starting out in the garden - I had to switch polarity otherwise I would have had a short (and did when I forgot - burnt out the controller). I run on analogue and that incident made me double track the main line. Do you run on digital? If not, how do you change direction electrically?

Mick

 

[Zerogee]

Looks fantastic, excellent piece of work!
For those of us without the skills or nerve to even THINK about trying to build something like this, is it possible (track geometry wise) to do something similar with off-the-shelf trackage, say, 4 LGB R1 points and a 30 degree diamond crossing in the middle?

Replying to my own message...... I've just realised why this ISN'T possible (not easily, anyway) - I think the central crossing would need to be 60 degree, not 30.....?

 

[Gizzy]

Looks fantastic, excellent piece of work!
For those of us without the skills or nerve to even THINK about trying to build something like this, is it possible (track geometry wise) to do something similar with off-the-shelf trackage, say, 4 LGB R1 points and a 30 degree diamond crossing in the middle?

Replying to my own message...... I've just realised why this ISN'T possible (not easily, anyway) - I think the central crossing would need to be 60 degree, not 30.....?

Correct Jon, but I believe that Bertram Hayn in Germany make a 60 deg crossing so that you can do this with R1?

The other way would be to use a LGB 13100 90 deg crossing and 4 LGB R1 11020 Half curves, and either 3 x LGB 10040 40mm and 4 x LGB 10052 52mm pieces or the cheaper option of chopping up a LGB 10000 300mm straight.

The LGB 13100 crossing has one leg (road) longer than the other 3, like a church cross, but the ART one I think is equal on all 4 sides.

I've often thought about doing this myself with the LGB 13100 crossing and cutting off the longer piece to make it the same as the other sides.

This would make the parallel tracks come closer together and save a little space, as per my second diagram....

 

[Zerogee]

Looks fantastic, excellent piece of work!
For those of us without the skills or nerve to even THINK about trying to build something like this, is it possible (track geometry wise) to do something similar with off-the-shelf trackage, say, 4 LGB R1 points and a 30 degree diamond crossing in the middle?

Replying to my own message...... I've just realised why this ISN'T possible (not easily, anyway) - I think the central crossing would need to be 60 degree, not 30.....?

Correct Jon, but I believe that Bertram Hayn in Germany make a 60 deg crossing so that you can do this with R1?

The other way would be to use a LGB 13100 90 deg crossing and 4 LGB R1 11020 Half curves, and either 3 x LGB 10040 40mm and 4 x LGB 10052 52mm pieces or the cheaper option of chopping up a LGB 10000 300mm straight.

The LGB 13100 crossing has one leg (road) longer than the other 3, like a church cross, but the ART one I think is equal on all 4 sides.

I've often thought about doing this myself with the LGB 13100 crossing and cutting off the longer piece to make it the same as the other sides.

This would make the parallel tracks come closer together and save a little space, as per my second diagram....

Well, it CAN be done with a minimum of standard LGB pieces.... it's nowhere near as elegant as the hand-built one, but it does work, as shown in the pic (which I hope comes out, it's the first time I've tried to upload a pic to the forum!).

This uses 4 x R1 points, one 30 degree crossing, four standard 300mm straights and four 15 degree R1 half-curves. Yes, it's wiggly, but everything fits with no cutting or odd filler bits needed.
I don't think I've got any place or use for it myself, but just wanted to see if it could be done!

Jon.

 

[MR SPOCK]

[align=center]I think it would be straightforward to do with proprietry turnouts but not sure about the crossing angle tho, and you may have to insert a few inches of plain track to connect it.

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[MR SPOCK]

[align=center]The frog bit are Peco SM32 part no SL 806 x 4

the rails are Peco Streamline code250 flat bottom, same as O narrowgauge, six yard long lengths of rail , the whole assembly is 42in long, with 61/2in centres.

the copper sleepers are from Marcway, Sheffield.

Pete
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[MR SPOCK]

Brilliant model engineering. Can I ask a dumb question (or two)? When I built a "Y" point - first starting out in the garden - I had to switch polarity otherwise I would have had a short (and did when I forgot - burnt out the controller). I run on analogue and that incident made me double track the main line. Do you run on digital? If not, how do you change direction electrically?

Mick

[align=center]I use combination of battery to the track and onboard battery in the loco with inbuilt chargers, the system is Locolinc

as the track is constantly fed the polarity never changes, the radio control in the loco does the work,

this would be the same as for DCC.

For analog, the crossovers would need to be isolated , and as you say the actual crossing would need a swith built in for change over. the whole turnout would need to be isolated from all the other tracks, one double pole, double throw switch wouldwork I think, long time since I wired up a layout
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[Loco]

Piko has/will have a solution for you for this, take a look at example 7 in this link:
http://www.piko.de/produkt_db/check.php?page=g-geometriebeispiele&grand_id=6&parent_id=3&sss=3 < Link To Piko G-track system

It is from 2 tracks to 4, but if you mirror the left side you will get the desired effect.

- Loco -

 

[trammayo]

Thanks Pete. Also thanks Loco - quite a clever system Piko!

Mick

 

[peterbunce]

Hi Pete,

Very, VERY nice work - that looks superb, you have done a marvellous job on a highly complicated bit of track - hank you for the photos!

 

[Zerogee]

Piko has/will have a solution for you for this, take a look at example 7 in this link:
http://www.piko.de/produkt_db/check.php?page=g-geometriebeispiele&grand_id=6&parent_id=3&sss=3 < Link To Piko G-track system

It is from 2 tracks to 4, but if you mirror the left side you will get the desired effect.

- Loco -

It'll be great when/if Piko get the rest of their track pieces out, especially the 60 degree crossing, the 3-way point and the Y-point - however they've been promising them for, what, at least two or three years now? Makes me wonder if we'll ever see them....... :impatient:

Jon.

 

[Gizzy]

Looks fantastic, excellent piece of work!
For those of us without the skills or nerve to even THINK about trying to build something like this, is it possible (track geometry wise) to do something similar with off-the-shelf trackage, say, 4 LGB R1 points and a 30 degree diamond crossing in the middle?

Replying to my own message...... I've just realised why this ISN'T possible (not easily, anyway) - I think the central crossing would need to be 60 degree, not 30.....?

Correct Jon, but I believe that Bertram Hayn in Germany make a 60 deg crossing so that you can do this with R1?

The other way would be to use a LGB 13100 90 deg crossing and 4 LGB R1 11020 Half curves, and either 3 x LGB 10040 40mm and 4 x LGB 10052 52mm pieces or the cheaper option of chopping up a LGB 10000 300mm straight.

The LGB 13100 crossing has one leg (road) longer than the other 3, like a church cross, but the ART one I think is equal on all 4 sides.

I've often thought about doing this myself with the LGB 13100 crossing and cutting off the longer piece to make it the same as the other sides.

This would make the parallel tracks come closer together and save a little space, as per my second diagram....

Well, it CAN be done with a minimum of standard LGB pieces.... it's nowhere near as elegant as the hand-built one, but it does work, as shown in the pic (which I hope comes out, it's the first time I've tried to upload a pic to the forum!).

This uses 4 x R1 points, one 30 degree crossing, four standard 300mm straights and four 15 degree R1 half-curves. Yes, it's wiggly, but everything fits with no cutting or odd filler bits needed.
I don't think I've got any place or use for it myself, but just wanted to see if it could be done!

Jon.

It works Jon, but with those wiggly bits, and S curves, it just don't look right. :bleh:

The solution to our problems though, as you pointed out in a later post, could be the Piko track system.

I'm waiting for them to produce their Double Slip, which is about R1 in LGB terms. The Y point would also be useful, and I could be tempted to build a scissors with their 60 deg crossing, should we ever see it on the UK market....

 

[MR SPOCK]

[align=center]update

I think I should have said the track rail is code 200 flat bottom not code 250

sorry for the error
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