Hi I’m building a simple indoor layout as a display which will be only a 30 foot G scale DCC end to end with a turntable at both ends. It will have a single track with two shunting lines off it. It’s more for a visual experience and the joy of building it with lots of detail work. Signals lights etc. I would like to know if anyone could give me any advice on what control system would run this. The loco has lights, sound and smoke units. Any help would be great fully excepted.
Doc system advice
- Thread starter ukjonathan
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If you're on a limited budget and will only be using the system for this display layout, then one of your cheapest options might well be a second-hand LGB MTS system - either an MTS2P (parallel) or MTS3 (don't bother with MTS1 or early MTS2 serial systems).
You could probably get the whole setup for a couple of hundred quid, and it will do you well for the limited use you're planning. With an LGB Universal Remote you will be able to control points, signals etc as well as the loco.
If you want something more modern, maybe the Piko system? Fully compatible with Massoth should you later want to upgrade to something more powerful, especially if you might ever venture out into the garden after all.....
Jon.
You could probably get the whole setup for a couple of hundred quid, and it will do you well for the limited use you're planning. With an LGB Universal Remote you will be able to control points, signals etc as well as the loco.
If you want something more modern, maybe the Piko system? Fully compatible with Massoth should you later want to upgrade to something more powerful, especially if you might ever venture out into the garden after all.....
Jon.
Be aware you will need to provide for reverse polarity on the turntables..
You can do this with reverse loop modules, manual switches. there will be break in control though (with a manual system) which cna cause the loco's to 'restart' their sound sequences.
You can do this with reverse loop modules, manual switches. there will be break in control though (with a manual system) which cna cause the loco's to 'restart' their sound sequences.
Hi Thanks for reply’s appreciate your views. Would a 5 amp NCE power cab pro run it? I’ve chance of a nice second hand one. Thanks again
yes, but you need to be aware of the output voltage. I use a standard PowerCab, and then added an inexpensive booster that would work to 24v. I need the full "G" scale track voltage, some of my locos need the higher voltage.
Greg
Greg
You may well find that you don't need the same sort of voltage that most of us use for outdoor layouts, as you're only using it for an indoor layout on which (I assume) all your loco speeds will be low.... in that case, the second-hand NCE setup might well be adequate for what you need - and if you ever do decide that you need more voltage, you can take Greg's advice and add a booster to it.
One thing you didn't mention is the make of your loco(s) - LGB, or something else?
Jon.
One thing you didn't mention is the make of your loco(s) - LGB, or something else?
Jon.
There may be some confusion here.... there is a 5 amp Procab system, and there is a PowerCab system (HO voltage and 2 amps) and you can add a 5 amp booster to the PowerCab...
You can buy the latter as a bundle, and it is different from the first. The first is the traditional ProCab with a 5 amp command station, the second is the PowerCab (which has the command station in the throttle) and a separate 5 amp booster.
The first system has adjustable output voltage, so with a suitable power supply will supply up to about 21 volts...
the second system's "smart booster" is supplied with a power supply only suitable for HO trains. output is switch selectable 12 or 13.5 volts.
So i would not buy the system in the OP unless you have run your loco at 13.5 volts DCC on the rails (NOT the same as testing loco with 13.5 volts DC).
Buy a PowerCab, and then add a Tam Valley 5 amp booster with the appropriate power supply (an old laptop power supply at 19v works well)
Greg
You can buy the latter as a bundle, and it is different from the first. The first is the traditional ProCab with a 5 amp command station, the second is the PowerCab (which has the command station in the throttle) and a separate 5 amp booster.
The first system has adjustable output voltage, so with a suitable power supply will supply up to about 21 volts...
the second system's "smart booster" is supplied with a power supply only suitable for HO trains. output is switch selectable 12 or 13.5 volts.
So i would not buy the system in the OP unless you have run your loco at 13.5 volts DCC on the rails (NOT the same as testing loco with 13.5 volts DC).
Buy a PowerCab, and then add a Tam Valley 5 amp booster with the appropriate power supply (an old laptop power supply at 19v works well)
Greg
Hi a big thanks again. Yes it would not be running anywhere near full speed but rather a shunting pace. It’s more visual layout. The loco is a DCC LGB v220 with sound & smoke. This was a surprise retirement present from my work friends. I had to retire early through a disability and I don’t have a garden now sadly I love scratch building and I’ve weatherd quite a lot of stock and even for magazine adverts and displays. Over the years. I understand the motors fitted to LGB locos only draw a low voltage. I heard the power cab can be added to which is a plus. Sadly I’m lost with the electronic side I usually buy what ever I’m advised as I would end up buying the wrong bits. Thanks again
Hi Greg,
Sorry for the confusion, you are right I can get the pro- cab handset and then a 5 amp booster.
It’s not the one sold as a kit powercab with the 2amp., it says pro- cab handset.
Sorry for the confusion, you are right I can get the pro- cab handset and then a 5 amp booster.
It’s not the one sold as a kit powercab with the 2amp., it says pro- cab handset.
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Don't confuse CURRENT with VOLTAGE - LGB motors don't generally draw much CURRENT, usually less than 0.5 amps per motor at normal running speeds if they are in good order; if you're only moving the loco around at shunting speeds it will be even less, in the order of 0.2 to 0.3 amps per motor at most. Your loco should run happily at low speeds with a 12 volt system (though most DCC systems designed for large scale use run at 20-24volts), and 5 amps would be more than enough - with that, you could easily have two or three LGB locos running at the same time, even with sound and smoke on.
Jon.
remember decoders are usually good for a 2 volt drop, so a 12v DCC system would be giving the motor 10 v... really not very workable unless you only run switching speeds.
Hi again,
Just a quick update I decided to go with the piko 5 amp set so I should be sorted.
Thanks again to everyone who put suggestions forward and you’ve all been a great help
Just a quick update I decided to go with the piko 5 amp set so I should be sorted.
Thanks again to everyone who put suggestions forward and you’ve all been a great help
A good choice for your particular needs, I think! Also the Piko Navigator handset is fully cross-compatible with the Massoth systems should you ever feel the need for more power....
Jon.
I know I am a little late here but I started with the Piko Central Station and substituted a Massoth Navigator instead of the Piko Navigator. You get a few more features with the Massoth Navigator (Back Lit Key Pad and others) for around the same price. I also use the same Navigator to run my LGB 51070 Analog throttle as well as my LGB MTSIII. I went that way in case I want to someday grow into a more powerfull Massoth 1200Z central station. I think you may be limited to what you can use the Piko Navigator with so just a thought. I also wanted to mention that the Piko Central station is also great for programming your decoders on the Main but it does not work with reverse loop (keeps tripping the reset) modules. On the other hand, the LGB MTSIII won't program on the Main but works nice with Reverse Loop Modules. So I get the best of all worlds and I am able to use my Massoth Navigator to run everything.
Richard
Richard
I forgot to mention that you will need to use a Massoth RC Receiver instead of a Piko RC receiver if you decided to go the way I did. I have been running this way for about 6 years now and I am so glad I did.
Richard
Richard
Hi Richard, thanks for advice but I think the Piko will be plenty big enough as I don’t have a garden and I like scratch building as I like to put plenty of detail into projects.