I am getting ready to build my first layout and it will be for outside. Is there any major differences in the track? I thought I was going to use Sunset Valley but making my own curves is a little intimidating. I am also looking at Piko. Any advice?
Brand names aside, first thing you should settle on, is the right style of track for the prototype you are modelling.I am getting ready to build my first layout and it will be for outside. Is there any major differences in the track? I thought I was going to use Sunset Valley but making my own curves is a little intimidating. I am also looking at Piko. Any advice?
Good on you. You can't go far wrong with that stuff. Next thing to consider, is the track geometry, by that, I mean mainly curve radius. The general advice given, is usually for the largest possible radius. Good advice, but don't dismiss the basic LGB track that comes in the sets, and is called R1. Most, if not all, LGB stock is designed to run on track this tight. It is also handy if you are strapped for space, and best of all, it is the cheapest. Often, R1 curves can be picked up on the second hand market. As for turnouts, you should match those with whatever curve radius you choose.... don't go slapping in R1 turnouts, when your ordinary track is R3 or R5 etc. Rough rule, the bigger the radius, the more expensive the track.Thank for the help guys. I think I am going to start with the set track and think I decided on LGB. I have a habit of making everything complicated and taking the fun out of it. I can always change things up later after I get it up and going.
There's no point in going large too quickly, start small and expand, learn by your mistakes and enjoy it.Thank for the help guys. I think I am going to start with the set track and think I decided on LGB. I have a habit of making everything complicated and taking the fun out of it. I can always change things up later after I get it up and going.
Good on you. You can't go far wrong with that stuff. Next thing to consider, is the track geometry, by that, I mean mainly curve radius. The general advice given, is usually for the largest possible radius. Good advice, but don't dismiss the basic LGB track that comes in the sets, and is called R1. Most, if not all, LGB stock is designed to run on track this tight. It is also handy if you are strapped for space, and best of all, it is the cheapest. Often, R1 curves can be picked up on the second hand market. As for turnouts, you should match those with whatever curve radius you choose.... don't go slapping in R1 turnouts, when your ordinary track is R3 or R5 etc. Rough rule, the bigger the radius, the more expensive the track.
Check out my thread on Taita Gorge Railway to see what is possible with an all R1 set up.
You will find that the Merlins are not happy with LGB Points, the Wheels are Gauge 1 Fine Scale back to back. Back in the 80’s I used to thin the LGB gaps with 00 Flat Bottom Code 100 Rail,to sort this out. Peco G Points have no problems in this regard with either them or LGB Wheels.I am starting out with live steam and may do electric later. I have 2 Merlin locomotives from the 1980's in 16mm scale (1:20.3) I think. I ordered LGB R3 curves because I didn't want any disappointments with curves too tight. There is a huge learning curve with all these different terms and things. I tried to join a club but never got a response from them.
One thing I noticed at the Garden Railway show was on a couple of G Scale layouts, some stock bumped up through the points and some dropped down at the same point. I would suggest some had flanges so large they bounced through the frog, while others were dropping into the gap.You will find that the Merlins are not happy with LGB Points, the Wheels are Gauge 1 Fine Scale back to back. Back in the 80’s I used to thin the LGB gaps with 00 Flat Bottom Code 100 Rail,to sort this out. Peco G Points have no problems in this regard with either them or LGB Wheels.
Points are what you call Switches,Can you explain what "points" are?
Switches. It's a UK term. Ahh beaten to it by Paul M.Can you explain what "points" are?
I also use code 200 with no problem, but I have some very old LGB stuff that bounces over the chairs.Many people doubt that LGB and other G Scale stock will run on Code 200, but I've yet to find anything that won't
Most live steamers will not appreciate R1s, my Dora does, but the wheel base is tiny.I am starting out with live steam and may do electric later. I have 2 Merlin locomotives from the 1980's in 16mm scale (1:20.3) I think. I ordered LGB R3 curves because I didn't want any disappointments with curves too tight. There is a huge learning curve with all these different terms and things. I tried to join a club but never got a response from them.