Decals (or transfers in old money)

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Wobbleboxer

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I know there have been many discussions on this forum and GSM on this subject but I'd like to ask the question again. How easy is it to get professional looking results with decals?

I've been looking to buy a Bachmann Ely Thomas shay for quite a while with no luck, purely because I have other Ely Thomas and ET&WNC stock, so it fits with the theme. I know ET&WNC is not Ely Thomas, but a little bit of rule 8 never hurt anyone. As I've not been able to find one I am now considering an un-named version and applying decals, but will I be able to get the same font and look as the pre-painted Porter I have already?

Any help, suggestions pointers regarding decals or indeed offers of second Shay's welcome. DC only sound not a concern.
 
Once the waterslide transfer is applied, and in the right position, let it dry. Then I apply a coat of mat/egg-shell/gloss varnish over the transfer. Job done!:thumbup: Alyn
 
Chris M said:
I've haven't used him (yet) but this guy in the States is recommended by peopel on the Aristo forum http://gold.mylargescale.com/StanCedarleaf/WebPageDecals/CustomDecalsx.html#SGROBJ7D415911313A35B1
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Chris,

This is a name I've seen in previous discussions. His work does look good, but seems quite expensive for what is in this case a straightforward font in a single colour. I'm thinking I'll get some decal paper and try having a go myself.

Maybe I'll have a play on a wagon first, at least I can repaint it of weather it if it turns out to be a bodge.

Alyn, thanks for the tip, I think I need to go shopping... decal paper, varnish, Shay.
 
Let us know how you get on as I really want to do some private owner wagons.. I have Adobe Photoshop if anyone wants artwork fiddle about with.... :thumbup:
 
I make my own from laser decal paper. In the case of white or very pale yellow lettering I use the white background paper and print the space (backgound) at the same colour as the loco or rolling stock. After a little trial and error I can judge the 'blackness' to use for backgound area so the decal matches the colour of the loco or tender (had a little problem with the LGB Uintah mallet as the 'grey/black' was harder to gauge). As far as any other coloured text or graphic is concernned (where white is not an issue) I use the transparent paper and this just lets the background colour of the car (wagon) show through. A quick coat or two of Testors Dullcoat (IMHO the best matt coat out there) and everything looks real good.
I have used the Alps kit in the past and it was excellent at making REAL white decals on transparent backgrounds but it is so expensive to buy now and so hard to get spares and supplies at half decent prices and that is if you can track them down!

Every one who has seen the decals made with the laser method has commented how effective they are, so they must be okay or even...bettter than okay.
In fact I did some for a memebr of the forum some time back. He had a whole rake of Aristo streamliners that he wanted me to make 20" long name livery bands for. The colour was B&O blue background with gold/yellow lettering. He was chuffed with the results.

There is one caveat and that is if you tend to leave your rolling stock (or even locos) out for days and weeks on end in the sun, the decals can take a beating and will start to fade slightly. If you do leave stuff out in all weathers for extended periods, then I recommend using an anti UV varnish spray before a final coating with the Testors Dullcoat.
 
If you'll be applying decals over raised detail (rivet heads, and the like) there's some liquiid called Solvaset which helps the decal sheet mould itself round the detail. Should be available from a dealer who import from the USA.
 
Wobbleboxer said:
Any help, suggestions pointers regarding decals or indeed offers of second Shay's welcome. DC only sound not a concern.
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John Prescot aka Twojags has 2 Bachmann Spectrum 55 ton 3-truck shays + DCC sound on offer on e-bay at the moment
not 2nd hand, but at £495 + £12 P&P, Brand New = WELL WORTH A LOOK when i was looking for one of these they were nearer £800
and even on analogue the sound is awsume
 
Thanks Rob S, but I'm after a Ey Thomas or an unnamed one. I'd rather not spend £500 and have to start taking the name off.
 
Wobbleboxer said:
Thanks Rob S, but I'm after a Ey Thomas or an unnamed one. I'd rather not spend £500 and have to start taking the name off.
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Hi
Sorry about that i though one of 2 jags was unlettered, turns out i crossed my watched e-bay item's round in my head.
The plain one. I was watching was on USA e-bay, went for $700+ any way, so no good
 
genesis1210 said:
Solvaset works very well - The secret with decals(transfers) is to apply them to a gloss surface .Some people use Johnsons Klearfloor polish  to give a suitable surface prior to application .
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a tip is to never ever force a wet decal that has curled flat-let it relax on its own-if you force it flat before it can shift on the paper backing-it will crack/craze and youll have tiny bits when it release-since some decals are expensive this is important

also not all decals are cut-some come in a single film which you need to cut-others come in over sized films so the printer has a larger than necessary target area

another decaling tip is to closely crop the decals-as close as is possible without nicking the printing-it is amazing how when cropped, they eye cannot pick up the film as it is line with the lettering -it will look invisible--while it makes some decals more delicate to handle and place -it is worth it (most of the time) 

since you have a rather simple rr name-perhaps you could order microscale g scale roman font letters and apply them singly-shouldnt cause too much headache as it would involve about 4 letters or so

or -simply add a large engine number to the cab of tender-nice and generic-

if you havent played with decals before-
i do one side at a time-as mentioned above-gloss and solvaset-

set the victim on its side-level

place the decals and -use a paint brush to wick away excess solvaset-wothout touching the decals-and-monitor the decals for about ten minutes as they can sometimes shift-ie float out of position slightly-to re-align -gently push them back using a flat shading brush-as they may be very soft-a soft shading brush can be used to push out any bubbles-but you must work fast, before the decal softens too much

then dont touch them until they are completely dry-

then turn it over-protecting your work from touching the surface and do it again


the best part about decals is, if you botch it,-use the solvaset to soften the decals-remove and start again-

as noted decals are delicate and over time and esepcially outside -sometimes the clear coat can slightly fog or 

the decals can separate from the body but still be under the clear coat and there will be slight areas of bubbling or the like-
easily remedied with a new coat of clear in most cases-you just have to get the clear coat under the decal to eliminate the foggy or bubbled area

you can do it!
 
funandtrains said:
Which version of the Ely Thomas Shay were you looking for for newer stell cab or the older wooden cab?
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Either, the older looking, so I guess that would probably be wood.
 
Hi Wobbleboxer, I have just put together a posting on my post for CCRR number 7 re Stan Cedarleaf's declas which I can confirm are superb, BUT do not use solvaset on them - they do not need it. Careful work is needed - I put a dome together from four pieces on the tops - complicated yes lots of water as a film helped to get them all together! The sides are four decals one for the number and one for the design, and two sets of stripes.



Here is the result -

b5ff398a0c1a47649ae7e9b6d39d0a89.jpg



Note also the spokes are each lined out - each one is a decal, then the centre is added adfterwards. David Fletcher did the design work, it is the same as the Accuraft 4 4 0 design: I put them on this re-painted Bachmann 4 4 0 - now it has a correct colour scheme.


Her is a final view of the whole locomotive

b86c33583e7e4d578a8344357e91fd60.jpg


Yours Peter B
 
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