DECAL REMOVAL.

bobg

bobg

Registered
Hmm, I have some Accucraft stock that needs running numbers removing, does it work on plastic?

(I also need someone to match me some transfers to replace them.)
 
TBH, they are a bit weird, they are not like a water-slide transfer, more like stencilled straight on.

Might have to give it a try.
 
bobg said:
TBH, they are a bit weird, they are not like a water-slide transfer, more like stencilled straight on.
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Tampo printing is the term. very commonly used on models of all types produced in China. Can be done multi colour and produce some very fine detail. I have some 1/43 race car models fully "decaled" that way over a base colour, made 20 years ago. Just make sure that you do not go through any base colour, if used, under the printing if the item not moulded in the base colour you see. Thinking USAT/Aristocraft here.
Max.
 
maxi-model said:
Tampo printing is the term. ..
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Yep, I remember watching the tampo process at the Fleischmann factory a few years ago. Very impressive how they can get such tiny detail printed so clearly.
 
As an experiment I've just removed one of the "No Smoking" symbols from a green Newqida coach using a cotton bud dipped in Brasso. Absolutely no sign of damage to the plastic either. Didn't seem to be having any effect to start with, then after about 20 seconds of rubbing started to come off very quickly. I suspect it's a combination of a gentle solvent action softening the paint followed by a mild abrasive to shift it.

Now going to order that green open observation coach!

Rob
 
Flushed with the success of my experiment with Brasso I decided to tackle the large TB logo. This consists of red letters on a white background with a red border and the paint here was much thicker so that it resembled a water based transfer standing proud of the surface. It still yielded to the Brasso but a lot more elbow grease was required to shift it and after it was all gone the rectangular area where it had been was till visible at certain angles. I think what has happened here is that the thick paint had protected the underlying plastic from the effects of muck, scratches, steam oil and general weathering and I'm hoping it will gradually blend in again given time.

Rob
 
I removed some vinyl lettering off a loco and it left a residual adhesive.

I thought (wrongly) that methylated spirits would remove the glue. It does remove the glue and a layer of paint. Doh! So for the other side I used T-cut. The T-cut didn't remove the paint but it did polish it slightly. A matt varnish spray rectified that but, the other side needs a coat of black.
 
trammayo said:
I removed some vinyl lettering off a loco and it left a residual adhesive.

I thought (wrongly) that methylated spirits would remove the glue. It does remove the glue and a layer of paint. Doh! So for the other side I used T-cut. The T-cut didn't remove the paint but it did polish it slightly. A matt varnish spray rectified that but, the other side needs a coat of black.
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White spirit (Turps Subs) is gentler and lifts the adhesive by dissolving it. Meth evaporates too quickly and is more aggressive.
 
"BRASSO apparently DOES scratch the surface so the US chap says...... SILVO does not."

In my experiment the area under the logo was still shinier than the naturally weathered area of the remainder of the body. Sounds like the American gentleman's definition of scratched is that it no longer has the toy-like straight out of the mould mirror finish beloved by the collector. Each to is own.

Rob
 
Hmmm! I'm a little disconcerted by the fact there are missing posts in this thread, including No 1, which kinda spoils it a tad. Is there good reason why these posts are missing, other than the fact that the O.P. no longer frequents us?

However, I have eventually got round to trying to remove some lettering from the clerestory of a Bachmann JS coach. I tried just plain meths, with a cotton bud, and it was definitely removing something, but not having the desired effect. I then tried metal polish of the 'Brasso' type, this definitely removed the decal but was removing the surrounding paint even quicker. A bit of 'Percy' (verance) with the Brasso and a finger nail, had a far better and quicker result on the decals and less so on the paint. The final result has all the decals removed, though with just about visible positions in cross-light. I'm sure a light sanding before the re-spray will eliminate all signs.

I have yet to get round to trying it on my original thought of the Accu W&L stock, as in post #2.

Trust this is of use to someone!

Edit : - Just realised that mention of post #2 could confuse some as it was by my previous persona and avatar.
 
I wondered why some of the posts were missing.
Ref the question I use a small amount of t-cut and rub it on the decal or printing lightly, usually does the trick. As previous poster noted it does leave a slight sheen on smooth plastic.
 
Probably an old change. I cant see why posts are missing so I can only assume it is an ex member.
Anyway - try tampondruckentferner
.
 
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Yes......Ahem.

I have successfully used car brake fluid to remove paint and transfers in the past - not recommended though for safety reasons, it is nasty stuff.
Great care required - and gloves and I suppose eye protection for Elf and safety etc.
 
Where can you get this stuff please Alan? I've got some LGB Golden Mountain coaches which could be due a re-livery.
 
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