Cruddy wheels on the Piko RotKamel. A solution

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As has been discussed on here a few times before, my Piko RotKamel (the narrow gauge, Harz, 12 wheel one) has cruddy alloy wheels. These are difficult to clean and don`t stay clean for at all long. Also, the skates seem to pick up crud. All in all, the running is poor. You need to clean the track, wheels and skates to get a good running session.

Piko obviously see this problem because they are now selling new power bogies with chromed wheels (or stainless steel - but that looks like a translation hiccup). these new power units are about 75 euro each and your going to need two - ouch.

DSC06058 (Small).JPG
 
At the Stafford Show, GRail, I was talking to Mark from Garden Rail Outlet about using a Power Cap to keep the Kamel going. These are designed for short periods of power outs - such as point work frogs or a bit of dirty track. We were not sure if it would work well with crappy pickups.The Cap needs to be charged to do its work!

Massoth Power Cap Maxi
DSC06088 (Small).JPG
 
We agreed that the bigger Power cap would be best because its higher power would run two motors better and would presumably handle poor pick up (= poor charging rate) better.

Fitting the power cap is simple - takes much longer to get the lid off the locomotive. Red to decoder positive, black to ground and a white control wire to BC. This white wire enables you to still program the decoder without the power cap stealing the signal.
Its also best to turn off analogue running (CV29) because the buffer is basically a battery and supplies a DC current which is basically analogue.
 
So, its 8.30 at night, the track is very damp with dew, it has not been used for nearly a week. An 8 wheeled loco with nice shiny wheels might run reasonably - the Piko would not stand a chance. I have not cleaned the wheels or skates (which seem to pick up their own crud).

The loco sits there charging the Power Cap (no idea how long this takes - I gave it the time the start up sound sequence takes - probably less than a minute). Then off we go. It runs great for a while, then I notice the lights flickering and the loco juddering - I think the Power Cap has discharged. The loco did need a couple of shoves on its first circuit but after that it ran brilliantly - presumably the skates had worn a bit of crud off of themselves or the rail. It did several circuits perfectly. Not a flicker from the lights and the sound was constant and clear - not like I am used to when it keeps re starting.

I turned the control down to speed step one (dead slow) and it did a circuit at a painfully slow rate but with out a moments hesitation.
Perfect.
 
That was last night. This evening it has been out running perfectly. the video is at speed step one - slow.
The track is still dirty, as are the wheels and skates.

http://youtu.be/TNb7_tG2l_I

The flashing headlights is a trick of the camera - they were actually steady and bright.
 
In conclusion, I am well happy with the results. The Power cap seems to be doing what it promised. A poor runner has been transformed.
The Cap is not exactly cheap at a bit over 60 quid but it does do what it says and its also a lot less money than two new power units.

Recommended.
 
Just out of interest, how does it behave on analogue DC? The normal recommendation seems to be to turn off analogue mode if a power buffer is fitted, to avoid loss of control.
 
ntpntpntp said:
Just out of interest, how does it behave on analogue DC? The normal recommendation seems to be to turn off analogue mode if a power buffer is fitted, to avoid loss of control.
Click to expand...
The Power Cap is seen as a battery by the loco in analogue mode..
If you hit the 'Stop' button, the track power goes off immediately, the loco see the voltage stored in the Power Cap as an analogue track voltage, and takes off like a scalded cat in the last set direction of travel..

The small orange Kof diesel will travel about 8 feet at near full-track analogue speed before the 'Cap is discharged. - Amusing the first time it happens IF there is enough clear track!! :o
DON't ask me how I know this! ::) :-[ ;) ;)
 
Following the instructions - I turned it off.
 
I have one of the Massoth Power Cap (buffers) that I inherited and was thinking of using with my similar poorly performing Kamel. It is the Larger one, however I have used one of the Smaller ones in a Stainz Chassis and found that it just kept the Sound Going not the Loco. My preferred option is to bite the bullit and buy two new Bogies. But I lost the link to the correct number. However your option looks to have worked. Presumably what you have is the Massoth 8151501?
JonD
 
Alan was using the Powercap Maxi 8151701.
8151501 is the discontinued Goldcap buffer - if you have one of these then it would be suitable.
 
dunnyrail said:
I have one of the Massoth Power Cap (buffers) that I inherited and was thinking of using with my similar poorly performing Kamel. It is the Larger one, however I have used one of the Smaller ones in a Stainz Chassis and found that it just kept the Sound Going not the Loco.
JonD
Click to expand...

What decoder are you using in the Stainz Jon?

With a Massoth decoder, I believe there is a way to connect for sound and a different way for traction....
 
Gizzy said:
What decoder are you using in the Stainz Jon?

With a Massoth decoder, I believe there is a way to connect for sound and a different way for traction....
Click to expand...

Not according to the manual..

Needs a positive and negative connection, and a means of controlling whether it is active to allow programming.. Either by the dedicated 'BC' buffer control connection, of using an auxiliary output from the decoder.
There is the option of fitting a manually operated switch for this as well.
 
PhilP said:
Not according to the manual..

Needs a positive and negative connection, and a means of controlling whether it is active to allow programming.. Either by the dedicated 'BC' buffer control connection, of using an auxiliary output from the decoder.
There is the option of fitting a manually operated switch for this as well.
Click to expand...

I think I connected mine to the BC terminals on my Kof Phil....
 
Yep.
BC is a Massoth thang..
You can use an auxiliary function output if using the buffer with a different make of decoder, or a manual switch if normally analogue. - Still need a decoder, but in analogue mode.
 
Gizzy said:
What decoder are you using in the Stainz Jon?

With a Massoth decoder, I believe there is a way to connect for sound and a different way for traction....
Click to expand...

Hm that is a question, it is a Stainz Chassis that I put an LGB Tram Body on.,been an age sinceIi pulled it apart to do the job. Can remember stuffing everything in was a trial, LGB sound box etc. think that I just used an LGB probably 55021? Chip and that could be my problem in this instance. Think that I may have a Small Massoth Chip somewhere, will be pretty old but might be worth a play at some time. Thanks for the thoughts.
JonD
 
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