Creality ender 3 pro

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This this is my first attempt at 'Tinker cad' spent an hour on the free tutorial yesterday afternoon then had a go at producing the name board to go at the Noth end of the platform, on the signal box. A little 'deeper' than I would have liked but using the 10ft rule, it looks ok out on the box. Have started to paint the relief, will post the finished item, later.
Dave

IMG_1489.JPG
 
I can make some guesses, but if you are posting examples of 3D printed items, could you provide:
1. an idea of the size of the item.
2. type of printer. Supplemental: type of material.
3.rough idea of time to print item.
Please.
Else we have no idea if these criteria would be acceptable / preferable to traditional modelling techniques.

Thanks,
PhilP.
 
Sorry, it's 150mm long x 20mm high by 10mm deep, it's printed in white PLA and it took just over 2 hours to print on my Ender 3 , as I said, I will post a picture of it on the signal box, hopefully, tomorrow if it does not rain!
Thanks for the 'likes'
Dave
 
Thanks!
I had not realised it was that deep?

Of course, you had to create the drawings / files first.. But I guess using Slaters letters and Plasticard, would have taken a similar time to that it took to print?
 
PhilP said:
Thanks!
I had not realised it was that deep?

Of course, you had to create the drawings / files first.. But I guess using Slaters letters and Plasticard, would have taken a similar time to that it took to print?
Click to expand...
I guess it depends on your skill levels, this really was a test piece to see how difficult it was to use a CAD program, as I had not done so before. I agree, you have to 'plan' what you want to create but then you do with plasicard the same.
I think that once you have your printer set up, I have printed a few mods, download from 'thingiverse' to improve it. For me , one big improvement was to print the side extension bracket and move the filament real down to the side. I did ruin a big print when the filament jammed , the machine still followed the program but there was no filament to print, when I released the trapped filament, it did not bond to what was below and so the print was spoiled. I have also printed the roller spindle, which relies on 2 x 6 mm roller bearings so the spool rolls , before it did a 'bunny hop' as the filament was drawn in, I really think this has improved the finished article. I have also marked the front of the levelling wheels as occasionally they can move while cleaning the plate and spoil the print, simple things but worth the effort.
Your slicer program is your best friend, time spent with that can make a much better print, then the printer is just ready to go.
Will post some of the other bits I have printed, later
One question, is using 3d printed parts still considered 'scratch building'?
Dave
 
Another print , download from 'thingiverse' ( not the man or pegs!) printed in two halves, able to fit a 5mm LED and I think I may be able to fit a resistor in the column as well. Again printed in PLA, just over an hour to print, glue together with 'super glue' . I do think something like this to build from scratch would be something of a challenge , not sure how I am going to mount them on the railway yet, have been looking at waterproof auto connectors but not found one small enough to fit in the base yet. Will post again when the light is on!
Dave
IMG_1490.JPG
 
Tanker man said:
One question, is using 3d printed parts still considered 'scratch building'?
Dave
Click to expand...
Well, it's OK for a scratchbuilder to use a lathe, for example, so a 3-D printer is just another tool in the box n'est-ce-pas?
 
Tanker man said:
One question, is using 3d printed parts still considered 'scratch building'?
Dave
Click to expand...

What is "scratch building", making from the "raw material", i.e. not from items supplied in a kit. So if you supply somebody with all the parts to build something, they are building a kit, but if you make the parts to go together (including a 3D printer (IMHO)), and then assemble, you are scratch building, i.e. made from the raw materials. My opinion only :)
 
Tanker man said:
I guess it depends on your skill levels, this really was a test piece to see how difficult it was to use a CAD program, as I had not done so before. I agree, you have to 'plan' what you want to create but then you do with plasicard the same.
I think that once you have your printer set up, I have printed a few mods, download from 'thingiverse' to improve it. For me , one big improvement was to print the side extension bracket and move the filament real down to the side. I did ruin a big print when the filament jammed , the machine still followed the program but there was no filament to print, when I released the trapped filament, it did not bond to what was below and so the print was spoiled. I have also printed the roller spindle, which relies on 2 x 6 mm roller bearings so the spool rolls , before it did a 'bunny hop' as the filament was drawn in, I really think this has improved the finished article. I have also marked the front of the levelling wheels as occasionally they can move while cleaning the plate and spoil the print, simple things but worth the effort.
Your slicer program is your best friend, time spent with that can make a much better print, then the printer is just ready to go.
Will post some of the other bits I have printed, later
One question, is using 3d printed parts still considered 'scratch building'?
Dave
Click to expand...
in a way yes as you have to design the part you want from scratch
 
Hm think that possibly a new word/s for Scratch Building required when using parts from a 3D printer. That is not to decry the skill required to design and get to grips with how to print it, just to ID the difference I feel. Perhaps “Scratch +3D Building“ would be a suitable term?
 
It's a healthy discussion as long as it's fairly pointless.

Scratchbuilding added kit bashing and 3D printing probably falls somewhere in between.

Fortunately, on this forum, I don't see anyone so precious about their construction methods that they'd pick a fight over 3D printing.

I describe my Fn3 combine as being scratchbuilt - but the bogies are Bachmann standard JS (with different wheels to adjust the height) and the underframe is from a Bachmann freight car cut and stretched to length, and the windows were ready made doll's house windows.

So, fortunately, the boundaries are too fuzzy - but, as I say, it's an interesting issue in that it opens up all of the techniques that modellers use ............................... including Mr Lump Hammer :mask: :mask: :mask:
 
Just to muddy the waters even more, maybe there's something of a scale depending on how you use the printed parts too?

At one end I mostly use printed parts to create bespoke components that I would otherwise use generic castings for; think Westinghouse pumps, smokebox doors, firebox bulkheads, funnels, domes... These then get added to scratchbuilt or kit bashed projects at made from more traditional methods.

At completely the other end you can print an entire wagon fully assembled, only requiring paint, wheels and couplings, but requiring more design input. More popular in the smaller scales.

Somewhere in the middle you 3D print yourself a kit of parts, that goes together like any other kit. 'Scratch-Kit-Building'? More like scratch building, except you can repeat it quicker. When I complete this Combino tram (I am still going, honest!) I think that is where this one will sit.

An interesting discussion to be had, nonetheless.
 
This is the start of the scratch built signal box upgrade, the steps went in the last big storm but this is the name, just propped up , to see what it looks like.
DaveIMG_1491.JPG
 
So to add to the debate, if it is wholly 3D printed parts then "3D Scratch Built", 3D parts added to other scratch built parts is "3D Assisted Scratch Built", and kit bash similarly i.e. "3D Assisted Kit Bash", so there is no confusion, and transparency.
However as with everything else G Gauge, it is your build, do it as you wish, and use whatever title (if you need one) you want.
 
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