Coupling Types

JimmyB

JimmyB

Now retired - trains and fishing
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Having bought some rolling stock (Bachmann) from the well known auction site, most of it came with knuckle type couplings, though one item does have an LGB type hook and bar. some of the knuckles are in poor order, the self centering "spikes" missing and general poor operation condition.
As I would eventually like the same couplings on all my stock which is considered to be the better coupling from the following perspectives:
  1. Operation reliability
  2. Maintenance and repair
  3. Ease of converting different makes to an alternative coupling
  4. Cost
Or is there an other alternative out there - many thanks in anticipation for your responses.:)
 
Hi Jimmy, that is rather a thorny question, a lot comes down to personnal preference. I recently bought some Bachmann stock with knuckles and was fairly impressed with them generally. My problem is that I have more Accucraft stock than I could shake as stick at, so unless I want a marathon w/shp session probably running into weeks or even months I need to change them to my std. which Accu round-heads, which just happen to not be available ATM. Some don't like the Accus because they tend to be rather long, leaving wide spacings betwen waggons. A good few on here will probably say Kaydees are the best. It's rather 'ya pays yer money and takes yer choice'.
 
At the risk of being shot-down in flames..
Although not prototypical in the least, the LGB hook and loop, takes some beating for ease of use and reliability on less than perfect track..
For the time being, I would fit-out one small flat, with LGB hook and loop one end, and Bachmann knuckle at the other. - This gives a match-truck, to allow you to mix stock for now.

For those knuckles with a broken centring-spring.. Plastic bristles, from a stiff yard-broom, are a good cheap substitute.
 
LGB couplings are the most forgiving if you have uneven track. However hooks at both ends are recommended.
As Phil suggests, make up awagon or coach with an LGB on one end & Bachmann on the other end.
 
The beauty of Bachmann Knuckles is that you can lift an item of stock out of the train without having to 'uncouple'. Even Bachmann seem to be retreating from the G Scale market though.

I have some stock with Aristocraft knucke couplings and they lock together so you cannot lift an item of stock out of a train. The downside is that they are not easily available as the company does not exist any more.

The LGB type hook and loop type are OK but don't look prototypical. Even they are not guaranteed to stay coupled if you have irregularities in the track or, even, slight differences in coupling heights (same goes for Bachmann).
 
I'm with DutchElm on this, but then most of my stock is LGB, with some HLW, Piko, and Bachmann.

Hook and loops (with hooks on both ends of stock) are not the best looking coupling, and not prototypical, but for me, it does work well....
 
If you are after 'knuckle' types... you are probably following and 'American' theme layout.

It is a shame that Aristocraft went to the wall as their couplers were strong and secure.
They look pretty prototypical and don't allow the vertical 'ride-up' which can lead to disconnection which will occur on uneven track.
They do appear on ebay in batches ( when someone has swapped them for another type). Sometimes folk give them away on this forum if they have swapped etc.

I have tried all couplers (including Kadees which look really good) and have found the Aristo ones to be the best value/performance on my layout which has some tortuous gradients and can have a few uneven track now that it has been down for over 12 years!
Kadees and Accucraft (not to be confused with Aristocraft), whilst really looking the part, are pretty expensive if you have a lot of rolling stock to upgrade, also Accucraft are 1:20.3 scale and will look rather large on smaller scale stock.
Bachmann are pretty good and cheap and I have only had a couple of failures with 'break-aways' back down a heavy incline. They are available in 1:22.5 scale (LGB size) and 1:20.3.

LGB's hook and loops do not even try to be prototypical (but they also do their own 'knuckle' style) but they do work well, and as long as you have double hooks (one on each mating loop) you can haul a lot of rolling stock up or down slopes without worry or mishap.
Of course other rolling stock manufacturers have their own 'copies' of the hook and loops which they include when purchasing new kit.
 
Jimmy;
If you have a few Large Scale model railroads near you; try to visit them, and see what they are using as their standard coupler. Don't just go by what they suggest, go by how much frustration they have with the coupler they have chosen. Every railroader seems, for one reason or another, to have made their choice, and once made, as the fleet grows, can find it hard to change if troubles occur, due to the cost and labour of the change.
If you are just starting, and only have a few cars/wagons/coaches/locomotives, it is the best time to make your own choice. Base the choice on what appeals to YOU, based on observations of mistakes made by others.
I do have a preference, based on my observations, and experiences over 30 years of OPERATIONS, with a fleet of over 300 cars.
My Railroad is of the American style, and can be viewed at: www.ovgrs.org/ We try to avoid as much frustration as possible, and try to have as much fun as we can, while operating a railway. I refuse to get involved in the never-ending debate on what is the best coupler style/make/type...there will never be any one coupler that is satisfying for everyone. Keep the fun in the great hobby of MODEL RAILROADING
Fred Mills
 
I have an Aristocraft 20ft gondola that I use as a "match" wagon. I can put a selection of couplers on either end - hook and loop, knuckle, chopper and centre buffer with chain. I run mostly US & UK/Colonial narrow gauge so most of my stock is either knuckle or chopper type. However, as I host the odd "steam up" I find that that adaptable wagon quite handy. Strangely, irrespective of the coupler height mounts on my gon', they all seem to match up fine with the corresponding coupler on another wagon. Max
 
maxi-model said:
I have an Aristocraft 20ft gondola that I use as a "match" wagon. I can put a selection of couplers on either end - hook and loop, knuckle, chopper and centre buffer with chain. I run mostly US & UK/Colonial narrow gauge so most of my stock is either knuckle or chopper type. However, as I host the odd "steam up" I find that that adaptable wagon quite handy. Strangely, irrespective of the coupler height mounts on my gon', they all seem to match up fine with the corresponding coupler on another wagon. Max
Click to expand...

Now, do they match (for height) 'by chance'?
OR,
Have you 'fettled' each to match that particular make of stock??
 
Observing different types on a group's layout problems mainly occur when different brands of similar couplings are mixed within a train. Another reason is different coupling heights due to age or less than ideal storage.
 
JimmyB said:
Having bought some rolling stock (Bachmann) from the well known auction site, most of it came with knuckle type couplings, though one item does have an LGB type hook and bar. some of the knuckles are in poor order, the self centering "spikes" missing and general poor operation condition.
As I would eventually like the same couplings on all my stock which is considered to be the better coupling from the following perspectives:
  1. Operation reliability
  2. Maintenance and repair
  3. Ease of converting different makes to an alternative coupling
  4. Cost
Or is there an other alternative out there - many thanks in anticipation for your responses.:)
Click to expand...
Another can of worms, sir.

I use Bachmann knuckles of both sorts at both heights - bogie mounted plastic from their 1:22.5 stock, and body mounted metal from their 1:20.3 stock, and these mate nicely with Accucraft US knuckles.

I also use some link and pin couplers.

There is no consistency on the Wild West Norfolk Route :shake::shake::shake:

But you asked for operational reliability, and the ugly LGB hook and loop, with its plentiful copies, is the most reliable in action. Why don't I use them? 'cos they look pig ugly. And they fit easily enough to Bachmann stock, so with Bachmann, LGB and Piko there's reasonable compatibility. If you go kitbuilding, then there's a bit of work to do, but that's the joy of kitbuilding.

So I put up with my rolling stock occasionally automatically uncoupling itself, usually when my back is turned :swear::swear::swear: but that's not everybody's cup of tea :nerd::nerd:
 
PhilP said:
At the risk of being shot-down in flames..
Although not prototypical in the least, the LGB hook and loop, takes some beating for ease of use and reliability on less than perfect track..
For the time being, I would fit-out one small flat, with LGB hook and loop one end, and Bachmann knuckle at the other. - This gives a match-truck, to allow you to mix stock for now.

For those knuckles with a broken centring-spring.. Plastic bristles, from a stiff yard-broom, are a good cheap substitute.
Click to expand...
Phil, read the post on repairs very interesting, and I am sure there are other similar substitutes
 
I know someone who uses chains with magnets attached for some of his lighter stock, obviously it has its problems but if you run short and/or light trains, it may be worth looking at
 
I have Bachmann couplers truck mounted and they disappoint me. I am changing to Kadee body mounted I use the g scale 906 units. Yes they are expensive but at a few at a time it doesn't hurt to much. The up side is less derailments when shunting across points, more reliable coupling in all cases. They also look more scale like. Definitely buy the height gauge first it also has a track and wheel gauge. I have changed 50 pieces of rolling stock few more to go. Minimum R3 points and curves ant tighter will cause problems when couplings are body mounted.
 
One other consideration with couplings Jimmy - if you change wheels from plastic to metal (or vice versa) - not all wheelsets are the same diameter - if you mix them up with different diameters on different wagons, it will affect how good your couplings are - especially where you have level or other track crossings.
 
I use Kadees for the all the reasons the Tinker does, plus the magnetic uncoupling, and the delayed uncoupling features (see their site)

Also you can pick up a car to uncouple it... can't do that with hook and loop.

Also they have many different offsets and types available and also different draft gearboxes.

Pretty much the most universal coupler around with all the different parts available.

Greg
 
I am a big fan of the LGB hook and loop because it works really well.

My first LGB stock was from the late 1970s and had the earlier non reversible type which was really poor and didn't couple that well.

When the modern LGB coupling arrived we fitted it with double hooks on everything and have never regretted it.

I have PM stock too that as Gordon says has an excellent LGB compatible coupling at the same height.

When buying Bachmann TTE stuff I have found that the couplings supplied are quite nasty LGB copies that don't work at all well or are huge D shaped things that won't couple. All are supplied at a different height as standard (although adaptor plates are supplied) to make matters worse they are also often rigidly mounted to long wheelbase vehicles that causes too much throw!

A lot of work has been done to fit swivelling couplings at LGB height to a lot of my TTE stuff and standard LGB type to the rest and it all now works well.

I appreciate the comments by others on the lack of realism, and if prototype looks is what you want, then go with that or if you like your US stuff then knuckles it is....

But, as a runner I will stick to my LGB type - on everything!

James
 
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