Correct solvent adhesive to use with LGB pruducts

maxi-model

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Bertram's site seems to be up this morning :


I was '8' out with the product name. :rolleyes:

PhilP
Thanks for the heads up PhilP. I have placed an order - A bit of an Aladdin's cave, especially if you have an interest in US NG bits and Ozark are being a bit tardy in response to a recently placed order ;) Max
 

PhilP

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Just be aware, like all 'polystyrene cements' it has a mind of its own, once you take the lid off! :eek:

I reckon I waste more than I use, every time..

Although it skins quite quickly, clamping and patience is needed, for a good bond.

PhilP
 

maxi-model

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Just be aware, like all 'polystyrene cements' it has a mind of its own, once you take the lid off! :eek:

I reckon I waste more than I use, every time..

Although it skins quite quickly, clamping and patience is needed, for a good bond.

PhilP
A bit like letting the Genie out of the bottle ? And why do suppliers invariably put expensive (by volume) plastic solvents in tall bottles that are easy to knock over ? I think we should be told ;)

Well, there are at least 3 new additions being made to the "pills and potions" drawer at my workbench as a result of this exercise, so far. Max

The "pills and potions drawer" - there is more :D The shelves and other drawers of solders, fluxes, 2 pack fillers, abrasives, paint restorers, thinners, etc'. And then there is the paint box ! The things one accumulates over 4 decades of model making.

20210729_095729.jpg
 
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The Shed

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And why do suppliers invariably put expensive (by volume) plastic solvents in tall bottles that are easy to knock over ? I think we should be told ;)

To provide a market for third party suppliers! :)

For those with access to a 3D printer, just about every shape and size anti spill botle holder seems to be avaialble to download.
 

maxi-model

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To provide a market for third party suppliers! :)

For those with access to a 3D printer, just about every shape and size anti spill botle holder seems to be avaialble to download.
Spot the "solutions" in my pills and potions drawer ;) Max
 

maxi-model

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OK just in, from the horses mouth, so to speak - the LGB/Maerklin service dept - UHU Hart (Hard) blue lable, is the reccomended product for bonding LGB (Luran S ?) plastics. That was quick. The advise came with the cryptic addendum that LGB is has been owned by Maerklin since 2008 - is this alluding to a possible change of materials since my loco was manufactured, as has been suggested by PhilP ?

So I will have 4 new adhesive products to play with, UHU hard, UV activated and the two sold by Bertrand Heyn. Can't say I do things by halves, can you ? Anybody want a review on their individual effectiveness in this application ? Max
 

JimmyB

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So I will have 4 new adhesive products to play with, UHU hard, UV activated and the two sold by Bertrand Heyn. Can't say I do things by halves, can you ? Anybody want a review on their individual effectiveness in this application ? Max

A review of effectiveness would be great, especially as a side by side review from the same person giving consistency to the output :)
 
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Rhinochugger

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Do you know the name of the Bostik product Rihno ? Regards UHU do you mean the "Plast" product they market and normally comes packed with Pola (LGB) kits ? The mods I am doing will result in butt joints where at least one edge to be joined will be about 1 mm in width - i.e. not much contact patch so a contact adhesive will probably not work (although I am not assuming the Bostik product is a contact type adhesive). Max

>:) >:) >:) >:)

I have to say that UHU has moved on over the years. Once I despised it as being only good for paper and cardboard but now, not so - pretty good all round.

DSCF2126.JPG
 

maxi-model

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A review of effectiveness would be great, especially as a side by side review from the same person giving consistency to the output :)

Thanks Jimmy. I will endevour to do one. It won't be tomorrow as there are a couple of projects ahead of it in the "queue". But then again it won't be six months time, promise. As the loco has two mostly mirrored sides (there's a surprise) I can do bits on each side one one way and the other another. Then settle on the one that works best. In some instances I'll be bonding Luran S to styrene or ABS.

Jobs planned include - narrowing the rear frames, reinstating the chopped about base of the chimney, adding the coal bunker top on the fireman's side, adding a spark arrestor, moving some surface detail around - plumbing, fitting chopper couplings (not the ubiqutious Accucraft) swinging at the rear, rebuilding the chopped about its rear cabsheet, etc'. Max
 

Bill Barnwell

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Thanks

Hi Bill, thanks for your reply. However as I live in the UK this and the other product you mention is not available to me here, at least at anything near a reasonable price - shipping on eBay is around $16 alone. MEK certainly is, which I assume from what you say is what is the basis of this product. You did not state if you have used this on LGB models and the plastics they use specifically. Max
yes I use it on LGB and other MFG that use similar plastics, but it will not glue any soft plastic parts like hand rails and over the years I have found nothing that will, Bill. you should be able to find MEK at most hardware type stores or chemist stores, BB
 

maxi-model

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yes I use it on LGB and other MFG that use similar plastics, but it will not glue any soft plastic parts like hand rails and over the years I have found nothing that will, Bill. you should be able to find MEK at most hardware type stores or chemist stores, BB
Thank you Bill. I was suspecting that about the hand rails and other "plug in" details on the loco. I think this materials pliability is the reason it is adopted for exposed exterior components, like here. The same reason I spec'ed pewter (on a supplier's advise), rather than regular white metal for similarly exposed detail parts on the slot cars I produced at one time. Mind you, it's amazing what can be achieved with a fine drill bit, brass rod and tubing.

Looking at this U Class the finish, and possibly material, on the frames and motor block (Luran S ?) is quite different to the superstructure (Polypropylene like the grab handles ?) We shall see when I have got it all stripped down. As I mentioned in another post my preference is to "weld" (not heat stitch) plastic where possible, with reinforcing supports if necessary. Otherwise, there are plenty of other ways to effect a decent mechanical bond between parts of disparate materials, it's just a bit more work, but I'm up for it ;) Max
 

ebay mike

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I'd forgotten I bought some UHU All Plastics after reading about it on a German Forum. Not actually tried it yet though. So my specialist glues pictured below.
Adhesive1 uhu.JPG Adhesive2 uhu.JPG Adhesive3 uhu.JPG Adhesive4 Lederer & 5 second fix.JPG
 

musket the dog

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I've used Bostik hard plastics glue to glue older LGB plastics together successfully. I have always clamped the components and left them for about a quarter of an hour and I've not had any issues so far. Where I've needed additional strength I've added plasticard behind the join and glued with the same Bostik product.

It might be worth knowing that Luran and it's derivatives are just a brand name for someone's version of a polymer known as ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate). A quick bit of searching on what bonds ASA well brings up super glues and acrylic cement or even welding it using Acetone.

I don't own any modern LGB but it might be the case that because of Euro recycling laws the material type will be moulded on the part somewhere. Usually close to the manufacturer's name, part number and some other identifiers. It would usually be a 2 or 3 letter code like ASA, PP, PA, ABS or similar. If you can find that it might help guide you in the direction of what to search to find the best adhesives :)
 
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craigwrdouglas2

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I have to glue a hard plastic handrail on a Kiss wagon.

I can confirm revel contacta was not a success - produced a very weak bond only.

I'll try out the acetone suggestion as I have that in the garage.

I'll let you know how I go.
 

Chris Vernell

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They work on some polyethylene types that are usually difficult to bond - note what happens over time with the nozzle and cap on your bottles of CA. Max
I find CA bungs up the nozzles very effectively after the first or second use :oops:
 

PhilP

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If you bang the base on the table, any liquid in your nozzle, shoots back into the reservoir. :nerd::blush:
 

Chris Vernell

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Always wipe the end of your nozzle carefully before putting the cap back on, Chris... ;) :eek:

Jon.
I agree. I do. I even run a pin into the nozzle to push residue back down.
But sooner or later, it gums up and I have to buy new nozzles.
I have found that nozzles on cheap squeeze tubes from the dollar store are less likely to gum up than expensive bottles from the real hardware pusher o_O. The cheap CA may be less reliable long-term, but I only use it to tack joints and reinforce with a fillet of epoxy.
 

phils2um

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This is an interesting vid about CA glue presented by Adam Savage of Mythbusters fame. Check out the baking soda accelerator toward the end and using it to create fillets.