Concrete Blocks or Wooden Framework for trackbed?

[homestyal]

I'm just about to start building my new layout after recently moving house. The problem I have is that it is on a sloped site (see photo), front to back. The layout will be a simple loop with a cross section from the back to the front. The current lawn area will be where the layout will be (length approx 12m x 3.5m. Area will be planted and gravelled.

I intend to raise the front edge up by say 30cm, with the back edge more or less level with the front through a slight cutting. So the big question is, do I use concrete blocks or a wooden framework on posts (certainly for the front) for the construction of the trackbed?

I'd appreciate any ideas to help me decide!

 

[stockers]

On that space I would stick with blocks. They last longer and with that concrete wall, i recon they will look better.

 

[PhilP]

The 'retaining wall' at the front, made from slabs on edge, rings alarm bells with me..

They never last very long, and IHMO is does not look very pretty..

I would bite the bullet, and build / get built a nice new retaining wall.. SW will think it looks better, and you may well get some S/H slabs out of it for use in other areas?

 

[TLR]

Tend to agree with PhilP they are not the most attractive part of the garden, at least removing them and starting from scratch will allow you to be more creative.

Shaun

 

[dunnyrail]

Tend to agree re the Slabs. If recovered they will make good Track Base, with a new wall at the front and a secondry one behind to pop the Slabs on for your track base you will have somewhere to dump the muck from the Foundations but not need to worry about any fill. With Garden Construction of Hard Landscaping it is all about loosing the Muck.

 

[GAP]

If it was my site I would run my line across the step area at the front and back up to the front fence.
Just looking at the pic that step has been there for quite a while judging by the growth on them so I wouldn't move them.
I would reposition the vertical pavers/slabs starting at the fourth one in from the right (next to the darker one) to start a curved gradient (through a cutting) up to the treated pine (rolla-pack) edging, which by the way would be headed towards the bin so fast if it was on my land.
On the other end I would do something similar if room allows.
If the front gate arbor is not used, look at expanding towards the shrubs (subject to planning permission from the controlling body).
With the extra space you could run branch lines/passing sidings off at different terraced levels.
As for a base I used house bricks evenly spaced to set my levels and crushed terracotta tiles to fill underneath as seen in pic attached, the rail is held down with cheap wire tent pegs cut and bent to form pins.

 

[Thomas Lambo]

I agree, use cement blocks as many have suggested....and I'd replace the slabs as well.

I would also recommend putting a gravel base under the cement blocks for good support and drainage. The dirt you dig up for the gravel base will be of use in shaping hills and the like.


Here are a couple shots of my GR that's been under construction for over a year. I'm almost ready to start laying 10 foot sections of Piko flex track.

Many months of preparation have gone into this project as you can imagine.

Close attention to grades and the radius of curves was taken into consideration. The entire island/circuit has anywhere from 18- 24 inches of packed construction gravel as a base. All the cement blocks I used for the road bed are supported by the packed gravel base.

I used cement blocks on the back side walls to reduce cost (I can walk around 95% of the island).

The front retaining wall blocks are stacking blocks, no mortar is used.

FYI - this will be a dead track GR, using RC Battery and Steam Power.


Note; the top caps have not been cut to fit snugly together or glued down yet..

Also, the inside track in the first picture will be raised approx. 12 inches higher than the outside track.



I think you have a really nice area for building a GR....and would definitely consider many of the suggestions from GAP and others.

Good luck and keep us posted

 

[adverse camber]

The other thing you could consider is old railway sleepers which when stacked make a good and long lasting retaining wall. They are no s good if you want curves as in the post above, but for strait lines are fine. Can easily run tack along the top.

 

[Gavin Sowry]

I'm a timber edge man myself, with basecourse/hardfill, and real ballast. This one (see Taita Gorge Railway) has been down for 18½ years now.
Secret to a 'good' running railway is good trackwork, and that means good line, level, top, gauge, and absolutely no twist. Beware of the concrete/brick
route for laying track on. No matter how good your blocklaying skills are (or not), eventually one of them will 'settle' out of kilter and introduce a twist in
your track. And, the flat surface will not hold ballast for long. What's more, concrete and blocks cost a lot of money, and take a lot of time. It will
be ages before you get to run, that's if your budget hasn't blown, and you've lost interest.

The above layout, from bare lawn, to ballasted running oval of track, and some plantings, was completed in a weekend.

Mark out for the boxing, dig trench for same, throw dirt into middle. Box up, spread dirt (compact as desired), cover with weed mat. Top up inside boxing with 'top course' from the quarry, level, and compact.
Lay track, ballast to taste, wire as necessary, and run trains. And how do you get the plants to grow? Scrape away the top course, dig down through the weed mat, plant in the dirt, then backfill.