Check rail - how do I install one?

railwayman198

railwayman198

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Suggestions needed please.

I have just one R3 point on my main line and my Roundhouse locos can only be trusted to run over it in a trailing direction. If the point is set to the curve in a facing direction they often derail by riding the point blade. I'm guessing that installing a check rail on the inner rail approaching the blade should fix the problem but what is the best way of making one? Should I use LGB rail or something slimmer? How do I fix it to the sleepers?

db84ae6ee4274824a2d10ef3a717026b.jpg
 
not sure about the check rail?
is the point set in the picture as it seems to a bit away from being set correctly!
The switch blade should be further across check its free to move and it sits right up against the stock rail everytime its thrown.
 
I seem to remember someone posting recently about needing to do a bit of fettling on their R3 points to make sure the tip of the blade beds properly into the stock rail?

Having a point on a curve (or directly after a curve) can often lead to such derailment problems as the wheel flanges are naturally hard against the outer rail and will find any badly fitting blades.

I had a similar situation, but in my case the blade wasn't quite throwing far enough over, so I lifted the lid of the point motor and adjusted the position of the tiebar toothed rack in relation to the motor cog, so that the motor was slightly biased to throw further in one direction and pull the blade hard into the stock rail. This seems to have cured the problem for me for now.
 
You are right that the blade on this point does not always set perfectly and I will try to adjust it. The LGB flanges seem more forgiving than the Roundhouse and usually cope.

I'm still curious as to how I would fit a check rail if I need to though...
 
railwayman198 said:
You are right that the blade on this point does not always set perfectly and I will try to adjust it. The LGB flanges seem more forgiving than the Roundhouse and usually cope.

I'm still curious as to how I would fit a check rail if I need to though...
Click to expand...

Never seen a check rail at the blade end before, if thats what you mean.......anyone else seen one ???

Have you checked the gauge of the blades just in case its a bit tight for some stock.
 
No, nor have I Spike, but i'll bet there is an example somewhere. You could try sticking a section of rail with silicone sealant (bathroom sealant) or hot melt glue.
 
The check rail would be on the curve as normal but finish just before the switch blade so no chance of the wheel going the wrong side, plenty on the one to one railway but i dont have a picture.
 
spike said:
Never seen a check rail at the blade end before, if thats what you mean.......anyone else seen one ???
Click to expand...

Yes... in the fiddle yard on my N gauge layout! I had to fit one for similar reasons.
 
[align=center]After fixing that gap in the point blades I would check the back to back on the loco wheels , if only one item has problems then it would point to the wheels being set wrong,
[/align]
 
ntpntpntp said:
spike said:
Never seen a check rail at the blade end before, if thats what you mean.......anyone else seen one ???
Click to expand...

Yes... in the fiddle yard on my N gauge layout! I had to fit one for similar reasons.
Click to expand...

Interested to see how you did it Nick.
 
railwayman198 said:
Suggestions needed please.

I have just one R3 point on my main line and my Roundhouse locos can only be trusted to run over it in a trailing direction. If the point is set to the curve in a facing direction they often derail by riding the point blade. I'm guessing that installing a check rail on the inner rail approaching the blade should fix the problem but what is the best way of making one? Should I use LGB rail or something slimmer? How do I fix it to the sleepers?

images
Click to expand...

That point blade displays exactly the same problem that my R3s suffer from.
You could try fitting an 'over centre' spring to hold the blade against the fixed rail as has been suggested previously on the forum but I have opted to change to Piko points.
Problems solved!
 
spike said:
ntpntpntp said:
Yes... in the fiddle yard on my N gauge layout! I had to fit one for similar reasons.
Click to expand...

Interested to see how you did it Nick.
Click to expand...

Hi Mike,

ok - good excuse to pop out to the garage and dig out one of the boards: it's an exhibition layout that's not been assembled and run since Jan 2009 so I've been meaning to make a quick check for damp etc. All seems fine. Hope to get it all out and have a play again one day!

Anyway, the point in question was a Peco SetTrack item that I modified to something more Y shaped to suit the location, using copper clad sleeper strip and a short length of old rail to form the required additional check rail. This would have been in 1996 ish. I should point out (no pun intended) that normally stock only runs in one direction through this point, as a facing point which is why I added the check rail as a safeguard and why it was ok to have the check rail converge and narrow the gap on approach to the point blade.

Sorry the photo's aren't sharp - lighting's not good in the garage and it's too damn wet and cold to stay out there long! But you get the idea.
085936573f7a4ccabc36b09d4c68cf47.jpg

1a05ae7cec824d4fbdb50c2210193d69.jpg
 
Ok Nick.........thanks for that.
Pics just fine..........can see how you do it :thumbup:
 
Hello, is this not the same problem discussed in "http://www.gscalecentral.net/m45794 < Link To Eureka! I have found the solution to my LGB R3 problems" ?, in this thread there are also a couple of solutions outlined that could be of interest.
Cheers.
Jose
 
Could be.

I have noticed on my R5s that some of the blades are a bit wobberly......poor manufature......and I do get occasional
derails for no reason......have had the same problem with the odd USAT #6
 
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