Casting open wagon bodies in resin

[bobg]

If you haven't got a big enough fridge to work in you could also try a LITTLE less hardner, that will slow the setting time, but be careful these things are fairly fine, too little hardner and it can leave a sticky surface which is pretty well unworkable especially with fine detail.

 

[ge_rik]

If you haven't got a big enough fridge to work in you could also try a LITTLE less hardner, that will slow the setting time, but be careful these things are fairly fine, too little hardner and it can leave a sticky surface which is pretty well unworkable especially with fine detail.

Thanks Bob (?)
Trouble is I'm not sure which is the hardener - the two constituents are labelled A and B - I'm assuming B is the hardener. I may try a couple of experiments to work out which is which (and try turning off the heating in the conservatory cum workshop)
Rik

 

[bobg]

Assuming the usual way of things, the hardener will be the one which uses the lesser quantity. Otherwise a small experiment with tiny quantities will soon reveal.

 

[stockers]

If you mess with the mix the results will become brittle.

 

[bobg]

Alan, from my experience there is a LITTLE leeway in these things, it isn't great but sometimes enough to make things a little more workable. As said previously, one result can be a soft (uncured?) surface, at the point where you have gone a tad too far. Experiment and experience count for everything.

 

[tramcar trev]

Way to go mate, great job......
I'l be trying this technique with making traction pole finials and those 12 sided bases they have on them, I'll post details when I do it. I will be using polyester casting resin which is reasonably controlable and is heaps cheaper
also low viscosity so it is runnier and gets into the deatail, Great way to make quantities......

 

[dunnyrail]

Hi Rik what a great video - thanks for sharing -iwould lkie to do some thing like that but dont have any hartland under frames etc -do you think it would be possible to cast the side frames in resin - and use bachmann wheels - or would the frames crack being made of resin ??? regards Dave

Thanks for the encouragement chaps - they're nowhere near perfect but they look good chugging around the garden.
Dave
Funny enough, I was considering making my own underframe sides and wagon bases (ie chassis). The Hartland chassis are OK but more US than UK in origin. I'd like to produce something which looks a little more prototypical for a UK based railway. I assume that if I slightly over-engineer the chassis sides (ie make them a but thicker than is prototypical) they would be OK. An alternative might be to add some iron filings to the mix instead of the Fillite powder. However, this is something I might need to investigate further. If I get anywhere I'll post it here.
Mel
Not sure they are good enough to sell on. I'd need to create some better moulds. Maybe if ever I get a bit cash-strapped as I totter into retirement, I'll consider it.
Rik

re Whizzo question about underframes. Another option that may give better strength for a chassis would be to use Etched Inside Bearings, these being glued to the Body Base then the Axle Guards could be cast to be Cosmetic with no strength issues. I think that in this case I would make the Body Base a bit beefed up, possibly putting in some kind of strengthener like bits of brass or something?

Many thanks for the initial post great resource.
jonD

 

[Otter 1]

Some fine instructions for the wagon bodies. Hope the resin stays in shape for a longer time. Some tend to warp after a few months.

For the chassis and axles journals I can recommend some plastik profiles and IP Engineering Hudson journals. They are cheaper to buy, than to copy.

My example above was made for 32mm gauge.

Have Fun

Juergen / Otter 1

 

[yb281]

Some fine instructions for the wagon bodies. Hope the resin stays in shape for a longer time. Some tend to warp after a few months.

For the chassis and axles journals I can recommend some plastik profiles and IP Engineering Hudson journals. They are cheaper to buy, than to copy.

My example above was made for 32mm gauge.

Have Fun

Juergen / Otter 1

Good idea Juergen, IP sell those axle boxes for a quid each. Simple wooden chassis, decent set of wheels, couplings and buffers (readily available), resin bodies, job done .

 

[ge_rik]

Some really useful ideas here chaps, thanks

Rik