Casting glassfibre pilings

[robsmorgan]

I needed to create some variety in my track edging in order to hide the wood base other than behind rocks, moss, and 'bridge' structure. I decided to intersperse the rocks with timber piling - suggesting an uneven hillside route. Unfortunately as real branches would rot quickly I decided to cast a mold using a stock of old STRAND Vinylmold, fibreglass resins & fillers.

If anyone wants more info, I am happy to post more pics, but the following give an idea of the effect.
I have now added more info later in this thread!

This is another section from the same mold:

Colour variations are the result of my trial & error approach

Regards
Rob

 

[Philbahn]

Looks good Rob. More pics please?

 

[Westcott]

Rob,

My word, you are busy!
Looks great.
Is that Peco code 250 track?
What's your ballast, and how does it stay in place?

Hamish

 

[korm kormsen]

yes, more pics and explanations, please

 

[robsmorgan]

Thanks Philbahn, will take & post photos of the mold process as well if useful.

Thank you Hamish, I am using Peco SL800 Gauge 1 track - I felt it looked better at scale than G45 - also quite a saving in price
The ballast is gathered** from a local beach and sifted through a sieve I made by drilling lots of 4mm holes in the bottom of a plastic box. Then sprinkled and glued in place using diluted PVA adhesive.

** obviously the gathering is totally by accident in my trouser turn-ups and not theft from HRH !!

I did post some pics of the process elsewhere in the Track section in response to Best Bed question.

Thanks again both & Korm

Rob

 

[Steve]

Like it Rob looks very good.

Also love the way your avatar snoozes when your not here and chats when you are

 

[robsmorgan]

Hope you didn't take my last comment on your new station building tooo seriously... but grateful thanks for the advice!

Also thanks for your kind comments here - just about to update the off-line avatar a tad

Regards
Rob

 

[robsmorgan]

Looks good Rob. More pics please?

Hope this is not overkill Philbahn!

Creating a mould and casting glassfibre 'timber' pilings

A. Obtain glassfibre supplies including
(i) Vinamold or similar mould casting material

(ii) Glassfibre resin
(iii) filler powder (a form of talcum)
(iv) hardening catalyst
(v) appropriate colouring pigments.
As STRAND don't appear to exist anymore I found http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/ < Link To www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk a useful link for most supplies. Google more!!!

B. Obtain or construct a suitably sized tray - at least twice the depth of, and allowing an inch or so border around your original 'model' (best to make it with firm yet removable sides)

Next:-

1. Collect a good supply of textured/detailed bark twigs - more than enough to make your scale model pilings


2. Trim off any radial twigs and cut the wood to length - based on the size of your casting tray as the casting can always be cut into smaller sections.

3. Mix a quantity of Polyfilla or similar plaster product and cover base of tray before placing the wood into the soft plaster, EXACTLY as you would like the final 'model' to look.
N.B. don't make the plaster too deep or you will lose some of the undercutting detail.

When this has set and dried out.....

4. Heat the 'Vinamold' carefully (preferably indirectly) in a suitable pot and in a WELL ventilated area. Your family won't like the fumes at all... until it has fully melted - BEWARE! IT WILL TAKE YOUR SKIN OFF WHEN MOLTEN.


5. When totally dissolved and runny, carefully pour the fluid vinyl over the timber in the mould tray.

6. Carefully vibrate, shake, worry the tray until all air bubbles appear to have come to the surface. Then leave for several hours to cool and solidify.

7. When totally cooled off, invert the tray over a flat surface and/or remove the side panels if possible, Carefully peel the now cool & solid rubber mould from the original twigs. These and any plaster can now be discarded.

8. With an old toothbrush and cocktail stick, delicately prise any remaining bark from the new mould. Wash carefully and leave to dry thoroughly.

9. Reassemble the original tray and lay the new mould face upwards into the tray ready for pouring the resin mix. (Mixing will again cause unpleasant fumes - plenty of ventilation! and you must avoid chemical contact with your skin)

10. Take a good size (expendable) jug and carefully following the instructions supplied with your glassfibre products, mix the resin, filler and hardener catalyst in the proportions as directed to mix the quantity you require for one casting. You will also need to add any colouring very quickly before the resin starts to harden.

10. Now gently pour the mix into the mould, concentrating on filling each tree trunk groove, continue pouring until you have overfilled the shape by 3mm or so for strength.

11. NOTE the resin will become very hot during the curing process, leave it in a dry and moderate temperature place overnight.

12. Once fully cured, dismantle the mould and gently remove your mould from the casting.
Hey Presto! you should have a pretty much exact copy of the original twigs that won't rot in the garden...... and you can use the mould over and over again.

13. Trimming any excess can be done with small files, band saw, mini grinding wheel, etc. Sections can be cut to size and shape as needed. Be careful drilling fixing holes as this material can be brittle.

That's it Folks - best of luck!

Rob

 

[Bram]

Do you use areleasing agent or do the branches pop out of the mould without too much bother?

 

[bobg]

I like the twigs, more realistic than garden log-roll.

A. Obtain glassfibre supplies including (i) Vinamold or similar mould casting material

I wasn't aware this product was still available! My old fella used to use it for plaster casting, 50 years ago. In those days it came in several densities, identified by colour, red soft and yellow hard, with green and others available in between. He had an electric heated "bath tub" with a drain tap on the bottom to melt it.

 

[robsmorgan]

Do you use areleasing agent or do the branches pop out of the mould without too much bother?

Sorry to be a few days answering Bram - been away from my internet access - I haven't found a release agent necessary to be honest, although it was a recommendation in Strand's paperwork.... I suppose the mould would last a bit longer.... but I tend to make a fresh one from time to time anyway (don't want it to look like wallpaper repeating!!!)

Hi Nigel - not sure if you are winding me up a bit here as I thought I might be teaching granny to suck eggs, but I hope it is useful.


Hello Bobg - I'm not certain myself to be honest, East Coast list it but out of stock - might be worth an email???
You are totally correct, I used the 'yellow' less detailed harder wearing type for the piling, but bought the red - still unused in tub, for forging coins - NO ONLY JOKING!!!!

Regards
Rob

 

[spike]

Looks great........nicely explained as well