Building manual point/switch throw and.......



Kit bashing, The UK narrow gauge, The GWR, Aviatio
A question, Fred suggested "choke cable" because the center is solid and it will push as well as pull.

It looks like you used bicycle derailleur cable, which is a braided, twisted center, which pulls fine (although stretches a bit under high loads), but does not push as well.

Without a spring return at the switch, I would think that the "push" direction might not be as "positive" as the "pull" direction.

Just curious, I understand you already stated it works well.

Yes, I used the bike brake cables. In thought I would need a spring, but in fact they work near perfectly (in my scenario). I’m assuming that there is a natural spring, or ’give‘ in the cable that allows for the flexibility needed. As I said, I’m happy with those that I have. However I have also got a choke cable and have been experimenting with it in my workshop. So far, I haven‘t found it to be as simple as my current set ups, but early days. I can see this may be more appropriate for an elevated ‘set up‘ area that hasn’t yet been built.

I’ve got six turnouts controlled by the brake cables. Two of these turnouts are controlled by one barrel bolt, and even that (much to my surprise) works fine, They have all been outside and working for a year now. They’ve been through a Northwest Florida year with very little maintenance, which was my aim in the first place.


Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
24 Oct 2009
Co. Mayo
I rely on the spring in the manual switch with my fishing line remote!


3 May 2012
Just discovered this thread. I spent a long time reading through Gormo's posts on RM web: Manual Point Control its all 00 gauge, but he put in a huge amount of development work. I copied his design for a lever frame made from angle, studding and nyloc nuts, with 1.6mm welding rod and brass tube 'guides' in various places. The longest run is probably 12 - 15 feet. I haven't needed omega loops -bell cranks and the metal parts from electrical 'chocolate block' connectors allow enough play/adjustment. I used a couple of lawnmower throttle cables -rigid wire in a plastic covered bike-style tube, and they come with a lever- but they don't go round corners too well. The welding rod rusts eventually, but is dirt cheap and it is easy to replace a length: undo the screws and slot a new piece in.