Bridge Clamps

Gizzy

Gizzy

A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
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I know these are now as rare as rocking horse manure, but would anyone happen to have some going spare please?

And yes, I know I don't have a bridge, but I'm looking for a better way of powering up my trackage than the existing link with fish-plates....
 
Gizzy said:
I know these are now as rare as rocking horse manure, but would anyone happen to have some going spare please?

And yes, I know I don't have a bridge, but I'm looking for a better way of powering up my trackage than the existing link with fish-plates....
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Gizzy, did you see Lez200's post 3713

What have you been doing today as part of your G scale interest? - G Scale Central

Should call it Roger Moore then :happy: Still no groan emoji
www.gscalecentral.net www.gscalecentral.net

Possibilities?
 
If you can get your hands on some of the double length clamps, a simple milling out can create a reasonable bridge clamp, even the normal single length ones. it won't have the spring loaded plunger to help locate the rail and increase conductivity, but it will work. (Hillmans pictured below)

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Split Jaw pictured below:
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Now there's an idea Greg?

I have some short Aristo Clamps that are a split type.

I could maybe put springs on the screws on one side, and clamp the other side to my 'feeder track'.... :wondering:
 
Gizzy said:
Now there's an idea Greg?

I have some short Aristo Clamps that are a split type.

I could maybe put springs on the screws on one side, and clamp the other side to my 'feeder track'.... :wondering:
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Somebody once made a power feed clamp.

Can't remember who; if it was Hillman, then that's in the past.

Have a look at Trackshack, because they stock Accucraft track and clamps and, as we all know, the mail absolutely zooms in from the IoM :p:p:p

EDIT: that's a bit of a blow, they've only got Peco track in stock :confused::confused:
 
I made a set up for Steve (funandtrains) - see post 10

Lift-out bridge rail clamps - G Scale Central

Does anyone have a spare set of lift bridge rail clamps? I not sure who makes them but I've been told they exist! Is there a UK shop that stocks them?
www.gscalecentral.net www.gscalecentral.net
 
Gizzy said:
Might be the way to go Mike, pending other ideas....
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What about soldering some brass nails to where you wish to connect that will fit the LGB Crimps then a couple of them soldered to your feed wire. Pressing them on and off will help keep them clean, but if all else fails perhaps at the beginning of a new season a light clean with fine wet n dry would work.
 
Would a set of LGB track connectors be any good? - I have several..
 
Here's my feed input. Each of the trailer sockets is wired to two of my four main running lines. I have more than one set of trailer plug flyleads. They are all wired differently depending on whether I want to run all analog, all DCC, a mix of both (1 + 3, 2 + 2 or 3 + 1) or the whole shebang under one controller - either DCC or analog. Also leaves 6 spare 'wires' to take the supply to my signals and lights when I get round to it. I have four 5amp transformer/controllers and four MTS2 central stations (each with a 5amp 50110) and six handsets.IMG_20200707_132815.jpgIMG_20200707_132934.jpg
 
PhilP said:
Would a set of LGB track connectors be any good? - I have several..
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Thanks for the offer Phil, but the track connectors wouldn't help me in this instance....
 
ebay mike said:
Here's my feed input. Each of the trailer sockets is wired to two of my four main running lines. I have more than one set of trailer plug flyleads. They are all wired differently depending on whether I want to run all analog, all DCC, a mix of both (1 + 3, 2 + 2 or 3 + 1) or the whole shebang under one controller - either DCC or analog. Also leaves 6 spare 'wires' to take the supply to my signals and lights when I get round to it. I have four 5amp transformer/controllers and four MTS2 central stations (each with a 5amp 50110) and six handsets.
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My mate John has a similar solution for connecting his track from his control panel using trailer 12N and 12S sockets Mike.

My control desk sits in the conservatory, with my Massoth 1200Z and the various transducers such as the receiver modules for my Navigator and MTS handsets. I have a lead from the back of he 1200Z to a box with two 4mm jack sockets (sometimes known as banana plugs).

I have length of LGB 10000 with a Piko Buffer Stop and the LGB power connectors, with a lead that has two 4mm plugs that connects to the box with the associated sockets. I run this cable and track through the conservatory doors and connect it up to my layout with the usual fish-plates It is these fish-plates I want to replace with either bridge clamps or something as substantial, as the fish-plate connection is proving to be problematic.

The Domestic Authority will not allow me to drill a hole in the conservatory wall to make a permanent clamped connection, which is my preferred solution, so this is why I'm looking at something robust like the bridge clamps for a reliable electrical feed....
 
Gizzy said:
My mate John has a similar solution for connecting his track from his control panel using trailer 12N and 12S sockets Mike.

My control desk sits in the conservatory, with my Massoth 1200Z and the various transducers such as the receiver modules for my Navigator and MTS handsets. I have a lead from the back of he 1200Z to a box with two 4mm jack sockets (sometimes known as banana plugs).

I have length of LGB 10000 with a Piko Buffer Stop and the LGB power connectors, with a lead that has two 4mm plugs that connects to the box with the associated sockets. I run this cable and track through the conservatory doors and connect it up to my layout with the usual fish-plates It is these fish-plates I want to replace with either bridge clamps or something as substantial, as the fish-plate connection is proving to be problematic.

The Domestic Authority will not allow me to drill a hole in the conservatory wall to make a permanent clamped connection, which is my preferred solution, so this is why I'm looking at something robust like the bridge clamps for a reliable electrical feed....
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What I did on the original WWSR was to permanently hard wire in the controller cable to the track, and then to have pair of banana plugs at the loose end ready plug into the back of my Helmsman controller. When not in use, this cable was coiled up and dangle from the decking in all weathers - never a problem when I came to use it.
 
Rhinochugger said:
What I did on the original WWSR was to permanently hard wire in the controller cable to the track, and then to have pair of banana plugs at the loose end ready plug into the back of my Helmsman controller. When not in use, this cable was coiled up and dangle from the decking in all weathers - never a problem when I came to use it.
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I could clamp my feeder track to the main layout and leave my cable dangling I suppose, but I'd want to keep the banana plugs clean, dry and corrosion free.

Maybe I should use a plug with brass pins like a 12N/12S trailer socket? I'm very familiar with these,owning 2 trailers, a caravan and a lighting board for my cycles.... :wondering:
 
Gizzy said:
I could clamp my feeder track to the main layout and leave my cable dangling I suppose, but I'd want to keep the banana plugs clean, dry and corrosion free.

Maybe I should use a plug with brass pins like a 12N/12S trailer socket? I'm very familiar with these,owning 2 trailers, a caravan and a lighting board for my cycles.... :wondering:
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Yep, it's another way. Dunno if I bought kwalidee banana plugs, but they didn't suffer - the only occasional problem (every couple of years or so) was when the cable corroded at the plug entry. As time progressed, the cable got a bit shorter :eek: fortunately I started off with a bit of slack :p
 
Rhinochugger said:
Yep, it's another way. Dunno if I bought kwalidee banana plugs, but they didn't suffer - the only occasional problem (every couple of years or so) was when the cable corroded at the plug entry. As time progressed, the cable got a bit shorter :eek: fortunately I started off with a bit of slack :p
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Rhinochugger said:
Yep, it's another way. Dunno if I bought kwalidee banana plugs, but they didn't suffer - the only occasional problem (every couple of years or so) was when the cable corroded at the plug entry. As time progressed, the cable got a bit shorter :eek: fortunately I started off with a bit of slack :p
Click to expand...
 
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