'Bobbling' points

[beavercreek]

Perhaps it's time for two different standards in G scale - coarse (LGB) and fine.

I like a bit of coarse, I do

I totally agree that if point work is made bespoke and that only one wheel-type is used then there would be the solution. But most of us can't afford bespoke points or buying one type of metal wheel. As you collect s/h rolling stock and upgrade to metal wheels, unless you are strict and have good funds, you will end up with different types. This becomes even more so if you also run different scale stuff 1:29, 1:22.5 and 1:20.3, maybe not at the same time but there are times when I do, mainly on open days when it is a case of 'everything goes' with my own kit as well as visitor's.

I have metal wheels by SanVal (solid and ballbearing)l, Bachmann, AML (ballbearing pick-up and solid), LGB (solid, ballbearing pick-up and metal tyred), Aristocraft, USAT and Accucraft so there will not be anytime soon that I will be standardising those!!

The intention when I started this thread was to find if there was a way to sort the 'bobbling' that was mainly happening on my LGB R5 switches. LGB R3 and Aristo R3 do it a little but that can be lived with...it is only really the R5 that is the worst jobbie.
Thanks to the members I have some ideas of possibly improving an R5. One I had already seen some time back on another forum... I could shim ....or ... it might be advantageous to strip out the conducting strip at the bottom of the frog and 'grind' it out shallower.... or ...replace the plastic frog with a metal one. OR ..of course just swap the R5 that is most under pressure with a plain curve.

I will try the easier one first...shimming. It might not make all wheels ride the 'wing rail' but it might keep the wheel riding on its highest profile (next to its back) which might be just enough to stop the flange from running along the bottom of the frog....experimenting will begin....

 

[Rhinochugger]

Perhaps it's time for two different standards in G scale - coarse (LGB) and fine.

I like a bit of coarse, I do


The intention when I started this thread was to find if there was a way to sort the 'bobbling' that was mainly happening on my LGB R5 switches.

You can always get rid of 'em

 

[beavercreek]

http://www.modell-werkstatt.de/gleissystem/gleiszubehoer/index.html < Link To Bertram Heyn makes shims to lengthen the checkrails (R1, R3 and R5). The shims fit precisely over the sleepers and bolt detail of the LGB points and slightly narrow the gap between the existing plastic checkrail and the running rail. I have found that these allow finescale wheels to pass smoothly through R3s. I have a variety of wheel types, and I'd have to say that all the stock runs more smoothly with the shims fitted as the longer checkrail brings the axle into line better/earlier. They can even be fitted in situ with care if you cannot lift the points, though it's better if you can.

Greeeaaat!! thank you, thank you...this will be a good line to follow.
Apologies to you 798.03, I tried to give you 5 stars but I lifted my finger off the track pad so you only got 2

 

[ntpntpntp]

A few years ago Heyn was at the Merstham show and I regret not picking up some bits and pieces. I keep hoping he'll be back but sadly not so far.

I have no concerns about shopping online, so will probably resort to that for some R3 frogs and shims.

 

[nimbus]

Way back in 2011 I had the same trouble with R1 points, and made up shims as per photos. the ends were a sandwich of brass soldered together, and made to be a tight fit over the plastic check rail. work very well. hope the photos are there.
Cheers
nimbus (Clarry)

PS thephotos are of R2 points (trainline)