Best way to ensure connectivity for removable track sections

PhilP said:
Isn't / wasn't there a clamp where the 'open' part had a spring-loaded ball-bearing (like a cupboard door catch) arrangement, that gripped / clipped-over the flange, when you pushed the track into it??
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Probably the Hillman jobby

The one thing that I have found with Hillman clamps - very nice mind you - is that they are profiled for lGB code 332, and Aristocraft code 332 is slightly different (wider) at the bottom flange.

Hence, I suspect, the reason for the shape of the Accucraft clamps, which I'm not so keen on having broken a couple when joining Aristo to LGB, to overcome the minor profile differences.

What I'm now doing is using Hillman clamps on the LGB flexi track, and using Aristo / Bachmann fishplates and grub screws on Aristo / Aristo and Aristo / LGB where I'm drilling and tapping.

When I read Stockers' comment about having broken the 2mm drill bit, I ordered a pack of 10 - I'm only on number 3 :D:D:D:D
 
Rhinochugger said:
Probably the Hillman jobby

...

When I read Stockers' comment about having broken the 2mm drill bit, I ordered a pack of 10 - I'm only on number 3 :D:D:D:D
Click to expand...

How are you doing with taps?
Either I don't have 'the knack', or when tapping 'in situ' there is not enough room to swing a tap-wrench.. :think::(
 
PhilP said:
How are you doing with taps?
Either I don't have 'the knack', or when tapping 'in situ' there is not enough room to swing a tap-wrench.. :think::(
Click to expand...
I do all the drilling and tapping in a vice before laying the track section.

So I am drilling and tapping in a vertical plane, which is obviously beneficial, and in the comparatively refined environment of da shed (not quite a clinical environment :D:D )

Being a devout bodger, I am using a small adjustable wrench on the taps - bought two of them but one is now not quite as sharp as the other o_Oo_O strange, as the're only cutting through brass.
 
Rhinochugger said:
Being a devout bodger, I am using a small adjustable wrench on the taps - bought two of them but one is now not quite as sharp as the other o_Oo_O strange, as the're only cutting through brass.
Click to expand...

You might find one is a for starting the thread and the other for cleaning it up as they are usually brought in pairs, or even as three?

The clue is that the fine one is tapered.

Here's the science bit....

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_and_die
 
The swiftness of the hand deceives the eye :mask::mask::mask::mask:

Actually, when it comes down to it, it's all a bit tricky :cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
 
Ah-ha - interesting. Your Aristocraft clamps would appear to work slightly differently to the ones I have (see pic below, which I understand is copyright Glendale Junction). If I've understood OK, the "bridge side" sections on your clamps simply slide in and out, allowing the "bridge rail" to be clamped in place or released by just tightening / loosening one screw.


GJBridge332Clamps.jpg


As I've installed them, my current clamps have to have both an allen screw and a grub screw tightened against the "bridge rail" to ensure correct alignment and connectivity. The grub screws are the things causing me grief as they are, for me, fiddly and it's really hard to find a screwdriver thin enough but strong enough to ensure they are tightened up fully. This is why I'm struggling to see how my current clamps offer a simple "lift in, lift out" solution.

Thanks for posting the picture and for all the helpful suggestions - the other thread pointed out by Arthur A was very educational for me.
 
Ralphmp said:
Ah-ha - interesting. Your Aristocraft clamps would appear to work slightly differently to the ones I have (see pic below, which I understand is copyright Glendale Junction). If I've understood OK, the "bridge side" sections on your clamps simply slide in and out, allowing the "bridge rail" to be clamped in place or released by just tightening / loosening one screw.


GJBridge332Clamps.jpg


As I've installed them, my current clamps have to have both an allen screw and a grub screw tightened against the "bridge rail" to ensure correct alignment and connectivity. The grub screws are the things causing me grief as they are, for me, fiddly and it's really hard to find a screwdriver thin enough but strong enough to ensure they are tightened up fully. This is why I'm struggling to see how my current clamps offer a simple "lift in, lift out" solution.

Thanks for posting the picture and for all the helpful suggestions - the other thread pointed out by Arthur A was very educational for me.
Click to expand...

I have used these and I do not tighten up the clamps after placing the bridge in situ during normal use. To install and adjust I clamped them to the fixed rail, wound the grub screw out, placed the bridge in situ and tighten the grub screw up so that the ball bearing pushes slightly against the rail and allows the bridge to be lifted out. Winding the grub screw in too far will prevent lift out, not far enough will not secure the bridge properly. Once adjusted no further changes are needed (well maybe occasionally).
 
Ralphmp said:
Ah-ha - interesting. Your Aristocraft clamps would appear to work slightly differently to the ones I have (see pic below, which I understand is copyright Glendale Junction). If I've understood OK, the "bridge side" sections on your clamps simply slide in and out, allowing the "bridge rail" to be clamped in place or released by just tightening / loosening one screw.


GJBridge332Clamps.jpg


As I've installed them, my current clamps have to have both an allen screw and a grub screw tightened against the "bridge rail" to ensure correct alignment and connectivity. The grub screws are the things causing me grief as they are, for me, fiddly and it's really hard to find a screwdriver thin enough but strong enough to ensure they are tightened up fully. This is why I'm struggling to see how my current clamps offer a simple "lift in, lift out" solution.

Thanks for posting the picture and for all the helpful suggestions - the other thread pointed out by Arthur A was very educational for me.
Click to expand...
Yep, I think these are the proper, original Hillman lift out clamps - should be OK as the other Hillman clamps have always been good.

I'm just a cheapskate making use of what I've got in the box ;);)
 
Ball bearings? I didn't get any ball bearings with my clamps and I found that unless I both "clamped" and "grub screwed" the track wouldn't align properly.

Oh well, I'm obviously doing something wrong which, combined with my clumsiness in dealing with the grub screws, has made what I'd hoped would be straightforward a bit of a faff. I'll maybe try out some of the other suggestions during the winter months to see if I can find something that is easier for me to deal with.
 
Sorry Phil, I am now doubting what I wrote....I am sure that there is a ball baring and a spring involved that is tensioned by the grub screw - but I may be wrong - so I will have to take another look at the clamps I have in situ. I will come back once I have done this.
 
There is or should be a Small Ball Bearing inside the Grub Screw. You get the fit so that it just pulls in and out without Jamming and the Bridge Section should just drop, in pull out without any more adjustment.

I was at my friends yesterday, he has 2 Hinged Bridges with 2 Tracks in each. The clamps are on the non moveable end where the Track Drops in Place not the Hinged end, here the Track is just alligned with care to allow Trains to pass over a small Gap. Bridges drop in and lift out with no worries. Held up with Magnetic Catches to access the Shed for Tools etc. These Bridges are one above the other. So the bottom one raises as the Diagram Show but the other one lifts Right to Left, but of course the Build and Fixings are a Mirror Image of each other.

He also has a Single Track Lift Out Section to get further access in the same Shed. This has 4 of the Clamps on the Non Moveable Part. It again just Drops is place with the Track perfectly alligned and Power Connected. Simples.
image.png
Sorry about the crude image, where the Clamps (4 for 2 Tracks) are shown the Rail on The Bridge is slightly longer than the Bridge itself so that it Clicks into Place. The Bridge is just some light Ply with Hinges where the Small Track Gap is shown. Importand that the hinges are above the Rail Level as the Rail will Bind if not, so sufficient width needs to be allowed so that Trains do not side swipe the Hinges. Magnetic Catches at the end of the lifting part, again to be kept well clear of Trains. All this remember is inside a Shed so no scenics to worry about.
JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
There is or should be a Small Ball Bearing inside the Grub Screw. You get the fit so that it just pulls in and out without Jamming and the Bridge Section should just drop, in pull out without any more adjustment...
Click to expand...
Exactly. The trick is to adjust the grub screw so that it is tight enough to hold the track in place but not too tight that you can't remove it. You can leave the bigger screws at the opening end fairly loose unless the section will be in place for a week or two. I have a tiny Allen key screwdriver head that fits the large screws nicely when I want to tighten them for a longer session (oh er misses).
 
Andrew B. Middleton said:
That sliding bolt idea seems to be a very good way of both transferring the current and positioning the rails in the correct alignment also!
Click to expand...
Yes it does, but it needs Manual Intervention. For quick get Trains Running the Clamps as I show are much quicker. I forgot to mention that there are Wires on the Hinged Section of my Diagram and the Clamps maintain power at the other end or can be covered by Track Feeds there as well.
JonD
 
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