Ballasting Track

dunnyrail

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I have made a start on this for my new line and thought that some of my progress may be of interest.

Firstly I find that Ballasting Track is a fairly therapeutic activity, I have noted in the past that many articles in Mainstream Modeling Magazines suggest this to be too tedious for words. Interesting. Wonder what you guys think?

Back to the business of Ballasting though. First Pic Up to show a part of the finished effect. Here there is Peco Track ballasted with Chipping`s that are the same as used on Roofing Felt. Now sadly I cannot give you a supplier for these as they were obtained by Andy Rush. However if you can find a Company that makes Roofing Felt, they ought to be able to sort you out with the right stuff. I have used two sizes, approx Screened 2-4mm and 1-2mm. The larger is used on the Main Line and the smaller in Sidings.  I have also been using some Block Paving Filler that is somewhat Ballast Like, this I got from B&Q. It is used as a Starter Filler for my Ballasting now, as I do not have a massive amount of Ballast left to do my line.

I tend to do my Ballasting in the Morning on a Fine Warm Hot Sunny Day, this is so that the Glue has a good chance to dry off before any Rain or Cold. Sometimes it has gone pretty well off within an Hour.

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Here are the items of my Trade, Ballast, Trowel, Green Flock, Garden Spray and Glue. The Spray is just Water with a Touch of Washing Up Liquid. Glue is Wicks External Grade PVA, mixed 50/50 with Water and a little Washing Up Liquid. The Washing Up Liquid is for Wetting  the Water, effectively helping to destroy Surface Tension. This helps get the Glue into all the Ballast.

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To Work.
I use the Tubs to roughly place the Ballast in Place and the next two Pics show a Section before and after some of the Fill was put in place. Note in the First Picture the section Ballasted is where I am Joining on for this demonstration piece. As you can see I have used the finer Ballast as a filler. But I am now using the B&Q Block Paving Filler for this. You could use Fine Sand, but any loss of Ballast would show the Sand. The Block Paving Filler being Gray looks much better if there is any loss over time. After the Rough Fill I use the Brush to Tamp the fill down so that there is space for a fine layer of the Finished Ballast. You should finish with a clear Track with none of the fill on the Sleepers.

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Next is the layer of Ballast that will be the finish effect. As you can see this is slightly over the Sleepers and Rail. Next the Brush again to Tidy up, sweep the Ballast into the Sleeper Gaps and Tidy the Edges of the Ballast. This may sound tedious but it takes but a few minutes to get a neat and tidy effect for the 3 or 4 Yards that I do at a time. If there are points in the section, I tend to leave the Moving Part Free of Ballast for obvious reasons. Any that gets slopped here should be removed either with the brush or perhaps a Coffee Stirer. Note the effect after tidying up. Finally a bit of Green Flock can be added here and there just for effect.

"PIC 1 and 2 Message see pics in next post"

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Now to the messy bit, First give the Track a Complete Soaking with the Garden Spray, next the Glue. Now I tend to use the Small Glue Bottle Shown. I just pour it all over the new Ballast. The first Pic shows how it goes on. IMPORTANT try not to get any on the Rail, if you do clean off with a Finger Immediately. I Find that 2 or 3 passes on each side and the Middle will put enough Glue in place. The next two Pice show the application and just after effect.

Note that the residue on the Track is just Water.

Do not worry about the Glue on the Sleepers, this will dry clear.

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Finally for this post you can see the effect after the section has dried. The Flock is also now seen to its best effect.

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JonD
 

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dunnyrail

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Sorry guys I got a bit messed up with loads of Pictures. These next two are the ones that show Ballast applied then after tidying up. They should go where the "PIC 1 and 2 Message see pics in next post" is in the revised Text.

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Had to go to another post as I have blown the 10 picture limit on this thread.

Here I show the Level Crossing, I have used some old Timber as edges, the Mortar Mix is just Cement with Cilica Sand as this is very fine. I will probably give it a Coat of glue then some of the B&Q Black Mortar Paint as in the already completed section of Road. The Gap between the Rails has been filled with some Plastic that came my way, pinned in place on the Sleepers. Of course cut to be well clear of Wheel Flanges. The edges have been made up with the B&Q Block Paving filler.

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Finally here is the Start of my Small Station, again I have used Timber Edging and the B&Q Block Paving Filler to just cover the sleepers in the Track and up to the Top of the Wood outside. I will finish this off to the Building probably at the same depth.

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Final Couple of Tips.
1  if you do manage to slop some glue onto the Track, as mentioned before clean off with a Finger and go over with an LGB Track Rubber when fully dry. On the first pass of the Rubber, and Glue Residue will turn black. Give this a good going over till the Rail is nice and shiny again.

2 When tidying up the Ballast before Guleing, make sure that no ballast is on any part of the Rail. This will cause a bumpy ride when glued in place.

Good luck if you choose to follow my methods.

JonD




 

Martino

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Very good Jon. A well ballasted track adds so much to the authentic look of a railway. You've certainly achieved that. A good instruction manual too.
 

Robert Howard

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Thanks for this.

Will probably use this technique when I make a start on phase 2 of my railway :)

Rob
 

dunnyrail

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Thanks for the comments guys.

The trunking by the small station is the Water Pipe for the Small River Water Feature. It is in full view to represent the many Pipes that were to be seen in the Old East Germany. I featured them on a recent post on my new line build. Made out of Wicks Push Fit Piping.
JonD
 

garrymartin

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The results look excellent, I do not find ballasting tedious either as if you have a railway then maintaining the ballast is obviously part of the job as in the 1 to 1 world
 

Martino

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I must confess to finding ballasting quite therapeutic - I guess that adds to my wierdness.

I've been using this stuff

http://www.locomotionworks.com/ballast_instructions.php

Which is pretty effective.
 

dunnyrail

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One final final job that I forgot to mention-:

Inevitably after a few Days there will be some area`s that have not been fully Glued Up and a bit of Ballast that will not have been "Caught" by the Glue. This can be sorted by a Vacuum Cleaner being run over the Track. Just use the Pipe or use the Brush GENTLY!

The next two pics show the Ballast Vacd Up, this was from around 30Yds of Track. So I do not think that is too bad, it can  be reused  as fill so no waste. Of course the bits that were left a bit bare as shown in the pic have been redone. Around 20 mins work.

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JonD
 

Wobbleboxer

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Please don't take this the wrong way, but do you need to glue the ballast down on larger scales like G? I used to do so on indoors HO layout because the ballast was like dust and would blow away otherwsie, but I never did on my garden railway.

I guess you might if you had 'animal problems' e.g. cats digging etc.

Just thinking out loud...
 

PhilP

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Cats, washouts, pigeons, BL**DY pigeons!!!

Larger areas get used by the moggies.. Smaller areas (especially raised track) is very susceptible to washouts.. Pigeons eat it and poop all over the place. :eek: :mad:
 

dunnyrail

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Wobble,
Phil has said most of the reasons, however to add to that I like to keep a nice neat line and edges to the Ballast. Plus with the Small Ballast that I use, loose bits soon get into the points and stop them working effectively. Plus it can also get so that Stock will bump up and down. This happens when ballast get onto the Moulded Bolt Representation on the Sleepers. So yes Glue is essential for Small Ballast. However of you use say Alpine Grit or Larger you may get away with no glue. However you then would not get the Finer Scale Look that I personally am trying to achieve.

Yes and Pigeons like the Ballast for their Crop, the little gits.
JonD
 

Gavin Sowry

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Wobbleboxer said:
Please don't take this the wrong way, but do you need to glue the ballast down on larger scales like G? I used to do so on indoors HO layout because the ballast was like dust and would blow away otherwsie, but I never did on my garden railway.

I guess you might if you had 'animal problems' e.g. cats digging etc.

Just thinking out loud...

Personally, I go for the 'real life' tamped ballast. I don't think I've seen a 'solidified' ballast system that has gone the distance (i.e. last more than a few winters).
 

dunnyrail

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Gavin Sowry said:
Personally, I go for the 'real life' tamped ballast. I don't think I've seen a 'solidified' ballast system that has gone the distance (i.e. last more than a few winters).

Well we shall see, Andy Rush used the same system that I have used and it lasted some 8 years pretty well intact till Doug and myself ripped it up after Andy's untimely demise.
JonD