Baguley Drewry Mk2 with batteries, RCS R/C and MyLocosound

Tony Walsham

Manufacturer of RCS Radio Control.
25 Oct 2009
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Casino, NSW
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At long last the new, much improved, Mk2 Baguley Drewry has passed my desk.
This latest version has an all new metal chassis and runs superbly. The body is exactly the same injected moulded shell as before.
The only problem with the new chassis is the motor is angled down from the front and takes up some of the valuable space inside the body shell. This has meant a rethink on which batteries to use. I have chosen 4 x 1500 mah Li-Ion cells in a brick format. These leave plenty of room now for all the bits.
First off is to remove the body shell from the chassis. This is held on by the same two inconveniently located screws by the rear drivers shown here on the older version. Then I removed all of the wiper contacts from the underside. Makes life so much easier to access the body screws.
01-under-loco.jpg

As the owner wanted me to fit a MyLocosound diesel sound I had to cut off the extended motor shaft in order to fit the speaker up against the grille.
Here it is normal length.
01.jpg
Here it has been shortened by using a cut off disc in a Dremel tool. Positive was noted so that I could remember where to connect the Orange (+) and Grey (-) motor wires before I sealed the motor off.
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Then I made a small styrene case 56 mm x 56 mm and 36 mm high that will fit over the motor and glued it in place with silicone adhesive.
I chose that size as it makes the top level with the battery pack. See below.
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Before I mounted the battery pack I had to fabricate a control panel. It was easy with the old plastic chassis. I just mounted them under the foot steps at the front end. The charge jack has a negative potential and must be insulated from the metal chassis.
The next pick shows where I put the styrene plate under the front part of the chassis. It is just big enough to fit in easily and hold the three items. I glued some 20 mm styrene lifters to either side to hold the plate in position.
04.jpg

The three components were mounted thus:
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I fed the wires through up to the chassis top before securing the plate in place with two small self tapping screws salvaged from an earlier Bachmann installation.
http://www.rcs-rc.com/pics/Acc-Baguley-Drewry-v2/07.jpg < Link To
07.jpg

Then I mounted the battery in place with very thin double stick tape and a dab of silicone adhesive. As you can see the tops are level and provide an ideal mounting pad for the ESC components and the sound system.
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The sound system pcb must be precisely placed at the front so that it fits inside the two body "wings" and allows enough forward and aft movement to get the body on and off.
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I used a 50 mm square 8 ohm 1 watt speaker. I painted the mylar cone matt black before gluing the speaker in place with the trusty silicone. Be careful not get any excess glue leaking through.
I fitted 5 mm Warm white LED's for and aft with a 1k ohm 1/2 watt resistors in series with each LED.
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At present I have to remove the body to set up the sound to the liking of the owner. Bit of a pain. However, if I could figure out how to remove the plate on the motor hood I could have cut a hole in the body to access the sound controls. Then the body plate would cover the access hole. I know all you have to do is pop out the four pins from the inside, but I could not get them to budge.
I am very impressed with this latest version and the extra weight has really improved the haulage capabilities.
Good one Accucraft.
 

Moonraker

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25 Oct 2009
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My original Baguley Drewry was suffering from slipping gears after several years of use by my grandchildren (and me). I therefore purchased a new Baguley Drewry chassis and decided to follow Tony's guide to convert it to battery power, RCS radio control and MyLocoSound.
However, the Lithium battery proved a problem. I had trouble finding someone to make the battery pack for me, the price was high and I was concerned about my grandchildren mucking up the charging and allowing it to discharge too much. Therefore I looked for simpler alternatives.
The solution I have gone for is AA cell NiMH Eneloop battery packs arranged in a flat four configuration. These are readily available off the shelf for A$15 (about ten quid). Although I only need three of these, I find that I can actually fit five of these packs in the loco. Two will fit behind the motor where Tony has his Lithium pack, one fits under the floor behind the front buffer beam, one behind the rear buffer beam and one on the cab floor under a false floor to hide it. In my case, I am fitting the two behind the motor and one behind the rear buffer beam. This gives me 14.4 volts and a capacity of 2AH; more than the Lithium option. I could also have used NiCd batteries in the same configuration but the capacity would be only 0.7AH.
I will post photos when it is finished.
Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
 

Moonraker

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I need to correct a couple of things in my previous post. First the A$15 price was for a 0.7AH NiCd battery pack; the 2AH NiMh is A$32.
Second, the four packs will not quite fit behind the buffer beams due to interference with the wheels. I am therefore locating mine two behind the motor and one under a false floor in the cab.
Sorry about that.
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
 

Tony Walsham

Manufacturer of RCS Radio Control.
25 Oct 2009
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Casino, NSW
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Hi Peter.

Those 4.8 volt 2 ah ENELOOP flat packs from Battery World were Christmas specials only.
I have managed to source the same packs at a price that will allow me to sell them for about A$25 a pop. They are also available in brick configuration.
 

bobg

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3 May 2010
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Did neither of you find that the motor bracket is holding the shaft out of line with the gearbox shaft (looking from the side)?
 

Moonraker

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You are correct but there is a flexible joint between the motor and gearbox so it won't affect running. The flexible joint, a piece of rubber tube, won't last forever but looks like it would be very easily replaced if it broke.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
 

Tony Walsham

Manufacturer of RCS Radio Control.
25 Oct 2009
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Casino, NSW
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The flexible coupling is not that flexible and would almost certainly affect performance if not properly aligned.
I am pretty sure my two examples had the motor shaft in line with the gearbox as they were both very smooth running.
I believe the mounting bracket could be bent a bit if not aligned.
 

bobg

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Moonraker said:
You are correct but there is a flexible joint between the motor and gearbox so it won't affect running. The flexible joint, a piece of rubber tube, won't last forever but looks like it would be very easily replaced if it broke.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound

I'm afraid I have to disagree Peter, even with a rubber coupling there will be a loss of power, and range, if it is not correctly aligned, it takes effort to bend the rubber, which it is doing all the time it is rotating.

Tony you are correct that it can be correctly aligned by bending the motor bracket a little. I had to do mine, and was successful.
 

MRail

16mm etc - Live steam, battery & trams
26 Oct 2009
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Tony Walsham said:
At present I have to remove the body to set up the sound to the liking of the owner. Bit of a pain. However, if I could figure out how to remove the plate on the motor hood I could have cut a hole in the body to access the sound controls.
Tony, I made the cut-out you mention.
I don't have photos, but working from inside the body, I marked a rectangle just outside the four pins, and then gradually scored the line with a craft knife. After several passes, easing pressure toward the end, the piece came away fairly cleanly. This left the black cover overlapping the green by about 4mm all round. With a small hinge fitted, the cover can be lifted to access the controls.
The following pic is another guy's version of the same job. He's removed the green panel completely.
2781ab4709fc47668a1b43a25ef3aec7.jpg
 

Tony Walsham

Manufacturer of RCS Radio Control.
25 Oct 2009
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Casino, NSW
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Thanks Rob.
Dummy here was recently shown how to do it by Peter Lucas.
I'm coming out with a new thinner one part 3 amp ESC soon and that will be ideal to gain access to the programming button which will be on the pcb.
 

Moonraker

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Tony and Bob,

Thanks for the advice re bending the motor mount. I will do that. I wonder why Accucraft did not get it right in the first place.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
 

bobg

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Moonraker said:
Tony and Bob,

Thanks for the advice re bending the motor mount. I will do that. I wonder why Accucraft did not get it right in the first place.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound

One word maybe? . . . . China?