Bachmann tram bashing

[nicebutdim]

Hi everyone. I've been busy modifying my tram with a lot of help from here. I've changed the pole to pantograph as per Gizzy's thread; http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=67432&high=tram+pantograph < Link To http://www.gscalecentral....p;high=tram+pantograph
As I'm running an out and back line for the tram the pole just didn't look right running 'backwards', so when a pantograph appeared on ebay I couldn't resist but give it a go.

Then my attention turned to the rather poor excuse for a power block. Yet again a thread came to my help with Dutchelm's conversion to a USA Trains NW2 motor block; http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=25354&high=nw2+block. < Link To http://www.gscalecentral....54&high=nw2+block. G-bits (Resin d'etre) was able to supply the block (along with new wheelsets for my GP7), great service from Jonathan.
Instead of attaching the motor block straight to the tram floor, I cut a hole for the block to sit up into the floor itself, then made a strip of plastic which I screwed the block to. This was done as I felt the wheels were a little too low, making the tram sit quite high above the rails. Cutting the block into the floor allowed the tram to sit about 4-5mm lower, which makes a big difference .

Now I would really like a little help with finishing it off. I want to get rid of those horrible 'bumpers',

but don't want a gaping hole at each end. Has anyone else done this and found or made a suitable 'filler'? I know most trams had a catcher to avoid objects from going under the front, I feel that the lolly sticks could come in handy here.
I think sorting out the ends will really finish the tram off. The NW2 blocks are really smooth and quiet and the pantograph makes it look great in any direction now.
Pics and how too's would be great if anyone can
Many thanks,
Tim

 

[Gizzy]

Nice bash mate....

 

[nicebutdim]

Thanks Gizzy. Wouldn't have had the idea without your thread so thanks for the help there. Looking at the image above the pantograph looks skew-if, but please believe me, after a lot of careful measuring and cutting it is sitting perfectly central.

 

[trammayo]

Tim - couldn't you cut the lower fender off and add a two or three bar lifeguard gate?

 

[3Valve]

Now I would really like a little help with finishing it off. I want to get rid of those horrible 'bumpers',
but don't want a gaping hole at each end. Has anyone else done this and found or made a suitable 'filler'? I know most trams had a catcher to avoid objects from going under the front, I feel that the lolly sticks could come in handy here.
I think sorting out the ends will really finish the tram off.

How about a Wishbech & Upwell style cow catcher? Could fabricate something similar from brass rod, or I think GRS do one.

 

[tramcar trev]

I agree the bumpers are less than inspirational... I fixed mine thus.... no lifegard as yet but I'll fabricate them up from 1/16" sq brass tube.... I also made up some couplers that work for me, typical link and pin.... Because I also added constant lighting with 3mm warm white leds I also put patent " Speedie McPherson" voltage dropping diodes under my Bachmann cars...

 

[trammayo]

I dug out a couple of pics to show prototype fenders or bumpers. Later ones were more substanial and had a slot for link and pin coupling. I think the Bachmann tram is much maligned - even if the motor block/wheel assemblies are carp.

Fitting a pantograph is a workable solution Tim and the re-motoring is a good idea. I would fit a bow collector to mine (I'm a Leeds man if ever I get round to building a shuttle line!

The cowcatcher is a good idea - I made some out of the 2ltr milk bottle for my C&VBT coach.

 

[nicebutdim]

Thanks guys
Trev, your trams are excellent, I've been following your other thread with great interest.
I like the idea of the lifeguards, this is more what I had in mind too. Could even wire them up to a microswitch that kills the motor when the lifeguard is pushed back (adding too much complication I think).
This is the kind of thing I was thinking of

But I see they also wrap round the underside too;

Regarding the motor conversion, I really cannot recommend it enough. Although the wheels are a little small it runs incredibly smooth and quiet. I think the units work out at about £40, and worth every penny.

 

[tramcar trev]

I dont know about the motor blocks themselves but the current collection via the brushes rubbing on the inside of the wheels leaves a lot to be desired. The "fuse" is the very small berrilium springs that acually carry all the current and as I have upped the draw with the constant voltage lights etc they simply lost their spriningess causing erratic operation. I simply replaced those with a piece of bronze shim soldering it to the plates under the block.

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