Aristocraft

Thanks for that..

I can find the '6-pack' for sale, but no manuals..
There is a note on Greg's site that 'some people use them for very small single motor G-scale'.. I have paraphrased this.

My guess is if you have a well-behaved, small, single-motor loco you will probably get away with it.
BUT
It will very probably depend on the stall-current of the motor in the loco.. The Buhler motor used in LGB offerings is quite benign, but others can ramp up markedly in their current consumption once stalled.
IF you loco will spin it's wheels when stalled, then that is better. - There are people out there who weight their loco's so the wheels will not spin under a stall.

NOTE TO GREG:
Do you have a link for the 55002 manual / specification please?

PhilP.
 
I do have a manual, but not sure I can distribute it, as it might be beta...

I'm guessing you want to know the current capability, so I provide this quote: (highlighting mine)

Congratulations on your purchase of the Crest HO Revolution Train Engineer wireless control system. This product has been manufactured to the highest standards using only quality components and, with proper care, will provide you with reliable service. The Revolution TE operates on the 2.4Ghz frequency band for ultimate stability and interference free operation. The Revolution TE lets you walk around your model railroad layout and remotely control your locomotive speed, direction, lights, sounds, and smoke from up to 200 feet away. The Revolution TE was developed to provide the model train enthusiast with complete integrated control of their dream layout, without the need for complicated layout wiring or complex control panels. The Revolution TE receiver is designed to operate between 8 to 18 volts 1.5 amps with pure DC, DCC track power or battery power. The Receiver is designed for “plug and play” installation in any Locomotive with an NMRA port. The receiver can also be installed in any Non-Plug-N-Play locomotive.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
I do have a manual, but not sure I can distribute it, as it might be beta...

I'm guessing you want to know the current capability, so I provide this quote: (highlighting mine)

Congratulations on your purchase of the Crest HO Revolution Train Engineer wireless control system. This product has been manufactured to the highest standards using only quality components and, with proper care, will provide you with reliable service. The Revolution TE operates on the 2.4Ghz frequency band for ultimate stability and interference free operation. The Revolution TE lets you walk around your model railroad layout and remotely control your locomotive speed, direction, lights, sounds, and smoke from up to 200 feet away. The Revolution TE was developed to provide the model train enthusiast with complete integrated control of their dream layout, without the need for complicated layout wiring or complex control panels. The Revolution TE receiver is designed to operate between 8 to 18 volts 1.5 amps with pure DC, DCC track power or battery power. The Receiver is designed for “plug and play” installation in any Locomotive with an NMRA port. The receiver can also be installed in any Non-Plug-N-Play locomotive.
Click to expand...
COOL OK THANKYOU BOTH FOR THE HELP
 
inexpensive meter, set to measure amps. You should be able to find one with a 10 amp scale.

amp meters are hooked in series with the track leads.... power up loco and measure it with wheels slipping, and then push down on it until you stall the wheels and measure.

These two measurements will help you determine what decoder capability you need.

Run at max voltage, like 18v. Be SURE your power supply can supply several amps.

Greg
 
Greg Elmassian said:
inexpensive meter, set to measure amps. You should be able to find one with a 10 amp scale.

amp meters are hooked in series with the track leads.... power up loco and measure it with wheels slipping, and then push down on it until you stall the wheels and measure.

These two measurements will help you determine what decoder capability you need.

Run at max voltage, like 18v. Be SURE your power supply can supply several amps.

Greg
Click to expand...
Ok perfect thankyou v much for the advice
 
paul delany said:
Ok Greg I picked up some lgb switches with pont motors,am I correct in saying that pure ac voltage will not throw the switches correctly ? And that the AC needs to be half rectified ?
Click to expand...

Hi Paul,
You are correct. - The motors will 'buzz' and not throw.
 
paul delany said:
That's great thankyou so much,am I correct in saying one can use either a spdt switch or push buttons ,two for each point motor?
Click to expand...

Yes, either two normally-open push-buttons, or one SPDT (on)-off-(on) toggle-switch.
The toggle of the switch is sprung to return to the central 'off' position, and only makes contact when pressed one-way or the other.

Both options require two diodes.

If you can keep the switches etc. well-sheltered from the elements, it helps.
Turn OFF the power between running sessions.. A mixture of damp, and small electrical currents, can cause the wires of components (quite often steel, to save costs) to 'rot'..
 
PhilP said:
Yes, either two normally-open push-buttons, or one SPDT (on)-off-(on) toggle-switch.
The toggle of the switch is sprung to return to the central 'off' position, and only makes contact when pressed one-way or the other.

Both options require two diodes.

If you can keep the switches etc. well-sheltered from the elements, it helps.
Turn OFF the power between running sessions.. A mixture of damp, and small electrical currents, can cause the wires of components (quite often steel, to save costs) to 'rot'..
Click to expand...
Excellent I really appreciate the help one of the things I like most about this hobby is the willingness and support that folks in this hobbie willingly offer
 
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