Aristocraft points/switches, loose screws underneath.

Geoff the garden nav

Aristocraft locos & rolling stock, mid C20th to co
Has any one else experienced the phenomenon of the stainless steel screws which are the pivot point for the switch blades coming loose and dropping out underneath the track! I have 11; 10 foot diameter, (5 foot radius, they are actually 4 feet if you measure them carefully) nearly new and secondhand brass brass Aristo switches. This winter four of the longer S/S machine screws which are the pivots have come very loose or fallen out, the only way to put them back is by lifting the track. The earlier secondhand ones have a fibre washer which I was doubt full about, none of these have failed so far. The problem seems to be with the more recent/current ones which have a spring around the screw. This adds a sudden, random derailment risk. Is it just me or quite common? and is there a simple answer, perhaps super glue on the treads in the switch blade or just switch to another make? sorry about the pun.

So far I have not experienced lifting frogs or other common problems reported on this forum, they work happily with LGB point motors as cost effective, large radius points. Presumably its got something to do with the weather?

Geoff the garden navvie
 
Loctite 222 is designed for use where there are small fastenings that may need to be removed.
Apparently.

David
 
Can't speak for ART points as I'm all LGB track.

However, I have had similar issues with the screw working loose on the LGB points, making the blade 'wobbly'. I've simply tightened these up after adding a drop of Loctite, and I've had no problems since....
 
I haven't (yet) had this maintenance problem with my Aristo points but have had some other minor problems, luckily I have used rail clamps which means it easy to lift them out to service. I have one which has an intermittent power loss on one point blade so it may be the problem you have, so I'll check to see if this is the same fault.
 
We use Aristo Points in the hidden I.E. non scenic parts of the Ruschbahn. One strange derailment last year when I got to it was a loose rail, just the sort of thing that has been raised in this posting. Fortunately the point was easily lifted and the problem sorted with little delay to the Timetable.

One matter rising from the other replies, does Loctite 222 survive Ok outside with frost etc? I have no experience of it in the Garden.
JonD
 
LTfan said:
One matter rising from the other replies, does Loctite 222 survive Ok outside with frost etc? I have no experience of it in the Garden.
Only suitable for use between -65F and 300F (-54C to 149C)
That's a yes then?
 
Gizzy said:
LTfan said:
One matter rising from the other replies, does Loctite 222 survive Ok outside with frost etc? I have no experience of it in the Garden.
Only suitable for use between -65F and 300F (-54C to 149C)
That's a yes then?

no, only between -65f and 149c
 
mike said:
Gizzy said:
LTfan said:
One matter rising from the other replies, does Loctite 222 survive Ok outside with frost etc? I have no experience of it in the Garden.
Only suitable for use between -65F and 300F (-54C to 149C)
That's a yes then?

no, only between -65f and 149c

Doubt if you get those extremes even in Bolton Mikey.... :confused:
 
Gizzy said:
LTfan said:
One matter rising from the other replies, does Loctite 222 survive Ok outside with frost etc? I have no experience of it in the Garden.
Only suitable for use between -65F and 300F (-54C to 149C)
That's a yes then?
Could be trouble come the summer :rolf:
 
So I should get some Loctite 222 to put on the screw threads and hope the next ice age continues to hold off also try some rail clamps to make getting the points up easier!

Which are the are the best rail clamps for Aristo to LGB flexi track! Or am I really starting something asking a question like that!

Geoff the garden navvie
 
Geoff the garden nav said:
Which are the are the best rail clamps for Aristo to LGB flexi track! Or am I really starting something asking a question like that!
I don't think there's much to choose from a performance point of view. Some think the Massoth type look less attractive but have the advantage that the vertical screws are easier to tighten and or loosen.
When joining LGB to Tenmille rail, which has a different size of rail foot, I prefer "Split Jaw" clamps as I only need to file down one side of the LGB rail foot.
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Personally I prefer either Hillman then Split Jaw. Not so keen on the vertical screw type myself but I can see the vertical screws make them easier to fit, but I like the clamping action of the other better. If your fitting any number of Hillman's or Spilt Jaw it's worth getting a ball end allen key to do up the screws/bolts with.
 
Yep the failing screw under the switch/point is a common occurrence after a time, as the changing temperature and expansion/contraction can gradually work them loose or even out.
The use of clamps at all track joints with switch/points is eminently sensible as I have had to lift a couple of them to access the underneath.... the clamps made it a lot simpler.
Also it is worth lightly greasing the joints and wiring to keep things nice and non corroded.

BUT I have not listened to my self on a couple of occasions and just gone a head and installed the point/switch and have regretted it muchly.
The most recent one was an LGB R5 installed in my last year's 'spiral' addition. Everything seemed fine so when I went around gluing down the ballast....yes, you have probably guessed.... after the glue had dried and everything was operating well for a few months........one of the feeds to part of the frog had gone dead..... could be a screw or even a contact strip come adrift. :worried::mad:

You live and learn........:rolleyes:
 
Loctite will be fine, yes technically not down to freezing, but the makup of that system is there is a bushing in the throwbar that the screw goes into.

The bushing is taller than the thickness of the throwbar, so tightening the screw will lock it to the rail and the bushing, and there is some play between this assembly and the throwbar.

So a little something in the threads, and a little lube of the bushing in the throwbar should last a while. Most failures seem to be the original QC where the switch was not assembled right or the screw tightened.

Greg
 
When the Aristo throwbars get brittle and break; replacements (Much improved over the originals) are available from "GLX Scale Models"
www.glxscalemodels.com. It is a Canadian supplier...10 throw bars to a card/$10.
GLX has other aftermarket replacement parts for Aristo equipment.
 
When my railway was up and running I had over forty wide radius Aristo switches plus three #6 switches. Before installation I carried out a precheck on every new switch prior fitting. This included checking the screws under the tie-bar, the frog and the wing rails. The only issue (apart from poor initial design of the switch) was several throwbars (tiebars) disintegrating. Oddly when released the company saw no reason to put UV inhibitors in the mix for the tiebars.
 
When the Aristo throwbars get brittle and break; replacements (Much improved over the originals) are available from "GLX Scale Models"
www.glxscalemodels.com. It is a Canadian supplier...10 throw bars to a card/$10.
GLX has other aftermarket replacement parts for Aristo equipment.

This needs adding to the 'Shopwatch' area..
 
Probably better in the 'links' section. Shop watch is for temporary offers - although Paul is obviously feeling benevolent at the moment because he is not deleting the old stuff.

Go on then - give it a try.
 
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