Aristo-Craft GS-3 4-8-4 From Aristo-Craft 4-6-2 Pacific (With New Pictures)

[AJtheTeacher]

Hello Fellow G Scalers!

As far as my projects go I consider myself to be a "novice" in comparison to most of you. I have much to learn and I appreciate all of your knowledge, support and help. I also appreciate everyone being so polite even if I make a mistake. This has been a learning process especially on how to use styrene and machine Reynobond.

I have always thought that the Southern Pacific Daylight was a beautiful engine and wished that I had a G scale one. I have been working for quite some time on my Aristo-Craft GS-3 4-8-4 that started out out as an Aristo-Craft B&O 4-6-2 Pacific frame with no shell. I had to lengthen the gear box and add a set of drivers plus stretch the frame to match. I found a suitable MTH GS shell that could be modified to fit an Aristo-Craft stretched modified frame. I would have liked to have purchased ready made side panels, steps and front apron from a source but I could not find anybody who could sell me these parts at the time.

I used line drawings and photographs to give me the best dimensions available. I made the side panels, steps and other parts on the front from styrene. The front apron/'cow catcher" was made from Reynobond aluminum plastic composite panels with a LGB front subframe (that I made adjustable for height) underneath. The Reynobond is SO STRONG that you can lift the front of the locomotive by it. The rear 4 wheel truck also took many hours to modify. I still need to detail the front and side panels by adding rivets/hatches and finish the details on the rear trailing truck before I disassemble for paint.

I searched for a reasonably priced Southern Pacific Daylight locomotive for quite some time before I made the decision to build my own. I am sure that other people may prefer another brand besides Aristo-Craft for the frame but it was my most cost effective choice. I have learned a lot about how to fabricate patterns and parts. (I LOVE my Dremel tool.) This GS-3 is nearing completion and I already have most of the parts for a sister GS-4. (Plus I have an Aristo-Craft 4-6-2 Pacific that I will change into a Sunbeam.) I am aware that this is not perfect but I am sure that the next one will be better.

Enjoy your G scale trains. AJ the Teacher

 

[Southwestforests]

That's quite a project!

 

[AJtheTeacher]

That's quite a project!

Thank You! AJ the Teacher

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Love to see the details on your gearbox "stretch" and what glue did you use? I have a few Aristo locos with "stretched" gearboxes, and I found glue was an issue.

(a 4-8-4 northern from pacific parts, and a 2-10-2 mountain from mikado parts)

Greg

 

[AJtheTeacher]

Love to see the details on your gearbox "stretch" and what glue did you use? I have a few Aristo locos with "stretched" gearboxes, and I found glue was an issue.

(a 4-8-4 northern from pacific parts, and a 2-10-2 mountain from mikado parts)

Greg

The "glue" is easy. I use original J & B Weld epoxy. it takes a long time to set but it can be drilled, cut and machined just like any plastic.

I did not have pictures of the gear box stretch at this time. But as I disassemble for paint I will try to take more pictures.

1st; I found a new gearbox on eBay and found a source for used parts. They sold me enough parts to add a driver with all the electrical pickups.

2nd; To stretch the gearbox and maintain the most strength is a little harder to describe. Because this GS-3 was made with the older Aristo-Craft 4-6-2 gearbox with a universal joint (I upgraded the universal joint) I left the original B&O gearbox intact and cut a length off my NOS gearbox to EXACTLY match the original gearbox attachment points closest to the front of the locomotive. I then cut that attachment point shape into the piece of NOS gear box to add the exact length for an additional driver and gearbox plus another original attachment point. It looks like a "dogleg" but because it is not straight it has much more surface to epoxy to and is much stronger.

3rd; I stretched the frame to match the gearbox.

I hope to use a similar method on my "New Style" Aristo-Craft 4-6-2 Pacific to GS-4 4-8-4 that is also a B&O. It has the straight shaft with no universal joint. My biggest challenge with that will be a redesign on my rear trailing truck so that it will still sit close to the drivers but not interfere with the horizontal electric motor.

Thanks for the information on the 2-10-2 Mountain using the Mikado parts. I have a very nice Mikado that might be good for that project. Thanks AJ the Teacher

 

[AJtheTeacher]

Love to see the details on your gearbox "stretch" and what glue did you use? I have a few Aristo locos with "stretched" gearboxes, and I found glue was an issue.

(a 4-8-4 northern from pacific parts, and a 2-10-2 mountain from mikado parts)

Greg

Thanks for asking Greg. Here are a few pictures of my GS-4 project. This first one is an unmodified later 4-6-2 Pacific gearbox.
.
This is the first cut. It has a slight 90 degree cut at the bottom and I cut the 3rd gearbox mount exactly in half; then do the same for the new piece.

I carefully use J & B Weld original 2-part epoxy and clamp to give as much strength between the sandwiched layers.


I then used the same process on the gearbox cover.

Here you can see where I sandwiched the gearbox mount.

This is the final stretched gearbox.


Thanks. AJ the Teacher

 

[Djjerme]

Oooo.. I like where this is going! Since the 4449 is my hometown's loco (Born and raised here), have been wanting a G scale version as well. May have to give it a try as well if I can track down a beat up 4-6-2.

 

[AJtheTeacher]

Oooo.. I like where this is going! Since the 4449 is my hometown's loco (Born and raised here), have been wanting a G scale version as well. May have to give it a try as well if I can track down a beat up 4-6-2.

I think that it is a very worthwhile modification. This is my second Aristo-Craft 4-6-2 to 4-8-4 gearbox stretch. I did a stretch on the earlier version that has wheels that are made out of cheaper metal, a weaker drive link, an electric motor mounted at angle and separate from the gearbox, 4 driven wheels instead of ALL and plastic side rods. It was much cheaper to do.

The latest version that I did was actually easier, and all of the 8 drivers/driven wheels are better quality. Plus, it has 3 flywheels: one between each set of drivers. It runs much smoother. Thank you for your appreciation. Aj the Teacher