Aristo Craft FA-1 Questions

[James Stuart]

Hello,

I recently purchased an Aristo Craft FA-1 loco and would like to know what the RED button at the bottom of the loco is for. Also, I'm assuming, to run off the batteries, the 3 way switch needs to be thrown toward the middle of the loco, not toward the outside and to run off track power, the opposite applies. In the first attached photo, the port above the RED button is for the charger plug to be inserted, right? I have a vintage Aristo Craft charger on order. The board in the second photo shows a mother board of sorts. Is that also a receiver for battery control and which kind of controller would I need to run in battery mode? Lots of questions, but thanks very much!

Jim Rohrbach
San Mateo, CA, USA

 

[dunnyrail]

Hello,

I recently purchased an Aristo Craft FA-1 loco and would like to know what the RED button at the bottom of the loco is for. Also, I'm assuming, to run off the batteries, the 3 way switch needs to be thrown toward the middle of the loco, not toward the outside and to run off track power, the opposite applies. In the first attached photo, the port above the RED button is for the charger plug to be inserted, right? I have a vintage Aristo Craft charger on order. The board in the second photo shows a mother board of sorts. Is that also a receiver for battery control and which kind of controller would I need to run in battery mode? Lots of questions, but thanks very much!

Jim Rohrbach
San Mateo, CA, USA

That is a Crest Revolution Rx (Reciever) system that would need a Crest Handset Tx (Transmitter), the red button could be the binding button to link the loco to a Crest Tx of your choice. If it does not come with a Tx make sure that you understand if it is a DCC or Analogue system as I cant remember the differing features between the Rx.

EDIT I have been looking through my boxes and that is certainly an analogue system, the DCC ones are somewhat smaller. The screw terminals to the right should be self explanatory, there are 2 smaller plugs to the left. The bottom one with 2 wires goes to the Speaker the one above goes to what is the Binding switch ( I believe red switch you queried on your loco).

 

[JimmyB]

That is a Crest Revolution Rx (Reciever) system that would need a Crest Handset Tx (Transmitter), the red button could be the binding button to link the loco to a Crest Tx of your choice. If it does not come with a Tx make sure that you understand if it is a DCC or Analogue system as I cant remember the differing features between the Rx.

Yes, the red button is the bind button, page 9

CREST AUDIO TRAIN ENGINEER REVOLUTION CRE 57000 REMOTE CONTROL INSTRUCTION MANUAL

View and Download Crest Audio Train Engineer Revolution CRE 57000 instruction manual online. On Board Radio Control System. Train Engineer Revolution CRE 57000 remote control pdf manual download.

www.manualslib.com

 

[PhilP]

You have the 'newer' 2.4gHz system, not the older one.

The toggle-switch should be towards the centre of the loco to charge the batteries, and out towards the edge of the loco to run/power it.

I do not see enough to be sure you could safely run this from track-power. - It could well be the battery/track switch is disabled.

PhilP.

 

[James Stuart]

You have the 'newer' 2.4gHz system, not the older one.

The toggle-switch should be towards the centre of the loco to charge the batteries, and out towards the edge of the loco to run/power it.

I do not see enough to be sure you could safely run this from track-power. - It could well be the battery/track switch is disabled.

PhilP.

I tried to run it using a transformer last night with the switch in all three positions with no luck. I also have a Delton C-16 that runs fine with the same transformer. Maybe you have some ideas about that? Thanks again.

 

[PhilP]

I tried to run it using a transformer last night with the switch in all three positions with no luck. I also have a Delton C-16 that runs fine with the same transformer. Maybe you have some ideas about that? Thanks again.

That switch (which I assume from what you have said) has three positions?

This switch has nothing to do with selecting between track-power and battery power.
If it is a three-position switch, the centre position is 'Off'.
The centre contacts of this switch run to the left of the photo, via the fuse, and go to the battery. - If fitted.

If the switch is flicked towards the centre of the loco, then the battery is connected to the outside contacts of the switch, which run across the model to the charging socket. - This switch will need to be in this position to charge the batteries.

If the switch is flicked towards the outside of the loco, then the battery is connected to the 'batt' terminals on the receiver/controller.
In this position, if there is any charge in the batteries, there should be signs of life on that board.

Without a controller (handset) you will not be able to run this model from battery power.

There should be other switches on the model. One of these may well be labelled 'Track/Battery', but I am not convinced this will be in circuit now?

I think the pair of Red/Green wires may be to the motors? - Need more photos, to try to work out where/what these are?

I don't see any sign of pickup wires coming from the motor-blocks? - This suggests to me that this is a 'dead-rail' (battery only) installation.

PhilP.

 

[James Stuart]

That switch (which I assume from what you have said) has three positions?

This switch has nothing to do with selecting between track-power and battery power.
If it is a three-position switch, the centre position is 'Off'.
The centre contacts of this switch run to the left of the photo, via the fuse, and go to the battery. - If fitted.

If the switch is flicked towards the centre of the loco, then the battery is connected to the outside contacts of the switch, which run across the model to the charging socket. - This switch will need to be in this position to charge the batteries.

If the switch is flicked towards the outside of the loco, then the battery is connected to the 'batt' terminals on the receiver/controller.
In this position, if there is any charge in the batteries, there should be signs of life on that board.

Without a controller (handset) you will not be able to run this model from battery power.

There should be other switches on the model. One of these may well be labelled 'Track/Battery', but I am not convinced this will be in circuit now?

I think the pair of Red/Green wires may be to the motors? - Need more photos, to try to work out where/what these are?

I don't see any sign of pickup wires coming from the motor-blocks? - This suggests to me that this is a 'dead-rail' (battery only) installation.

PhilP.

Hello Phil,
Here's 4 shots of the chassis showing the receiver and both trucks with IMG_4772 showing the switch, "bind" button and charging port. Your last comment of pickup wires coming from the motor blocks may indicate a battery only run type.

There are two wires coming off the motor blocks (red and green) that splice into red and black wires that go to the "motor" connection on the receiver. There are red and black wires that go from the (input) connection on the receiver to the "inboard" connection on the 3-way switch. The red and black wires from the "center" connection on the 3-way switch runs to the fuse where the red goes through the fuse and continues on the other side to the battery connectors. The black wire goes straight to the battery connector. The "outboard" red and black wires on the 3-way switch go to the charging port attached to the chassis. There are 3 slots in the rear door labeled: smoke, light and motor. I'd assume if the slots held switches, there'd be a smoke option (don't want it anyway) motor meaning track power, and light meaning I don't know what. There are wires inside the car body that connect to a small board mounted on the ceiling behind the cab that may distribute cab, number board and headlight functions. They attach through a clip to the center connection of the receiver labeled: HD1 (C) HD2.

Hopefully with all the information, you'll be able to make more than an educated guess as to how my FA is set up. Regarding the batteries, there are two carriers of 8 Duracell rechargeable 2450mAh (AA HR6/DC1500NiMH, 1.2 V) for a total of 16 batteries. I have a vintage Aristo Craft charger on order from eBay and I guess I'll find out how good the batteries are. I may end up buying new ones if they're worn out. I will check them with a volt meter to see if there's any charge left in them. I'm guessing there won't be, but I'll find out.

Thanks very much for your help.
Jim Rohrbach
San Mateo, CA, USA

 

[JimmyB]

I wold suspect (as is the norm for battery power) that connection between the wheels (for track power) and the motor have been severed, rather than fitting an a second switch, to change from battery to track power.

 

[dunnyrail]

I HAVE JUST CHECKED THIS OUT ON AN ARISTO MOTOR BOGIE I HAVE IN STOCK.
These Aristo motor blocks have 4 pins from the bogie, the inner ones tend to be to Track and this can be tested by a meter with connection to a skate or wheel and the inner pin on the same side. The outer pins go to the motor again this can be tested with a meter by using it to get a reading via the motor.

 

[PhilP]

Hopefully with all the information, you'll be able to make more than an educated guess as to how my FA is set up. Regarding the batteries, there are two carriers of 8 Duracell rechargeable 2450mAh (AA HR6/DC1500NiMH, 1.2 V) for a total of 16 batteries. I have a vintage Aristo Craft charger on order from eBay and I guess I'll find out how good the batteries are. I may end up buying new ones if they're worn out. I will check them with a volt meter to see if there's any charge left in them. I'm guessing there won't be, but I'll find out.

Thank you for the extra photos:
Yes, you have a model converted to battery only.

HD1-C-HD2 are lighting outputs, so once you have power and are connected back up, you will have some lights on the model as well.

I am not familiar with the Aristocraft charger. There is a chance it will not be able to charge the amount of cells in your model? - I may have this totally wrong.

PhilP.

 

[James Stuart]

I wold suspect (as is the norm for battery power) that connection between the wheels (for track power) and the motor have been severed, rather than fitting an a second switch, to change from battery to track power.

I think you may be right. There are red and green wires coming from the motor blocks that have been cut short (see attached photo) and they may have gone to the rear door of the cab where switches would have been. Battery power only isn't a bad thing, I just need to check the batteries, replace them if necessary and get a controller, hoping it all works!
Thanks for your input!

Jim Rohrbach

 

[dunnyrail]

I think you may be right. There are red and green wires coming from the motor blocks that have been cut short (see attached photo) and they may have gone to the rear door of the cab where switches would have been. Battery power only isn't a bad thing, I just need to check the batteries, replace them if necessary and get a controller, hoping it all works!
Thanks for your input!

Jim Rohrbach

One of these is what you need, can take some setting up but I have copies of Manuals on my PC if you need any.

 

[James Stuart]

I did some looking around on the Net and found that the controller is hard to find. I may just install a Soundtrxx Blunami decoder. I've seen several videos on installing them and my loco will be more current and will operate with the Blunami app on my iPhone. I belong to a model railroad club in Menlo Park, CA (West Bay Model Railroad Association- a professional video is on YouTube by TSG Media) Anyway, I have a few Athearn HO diesels with Soundtraxx decoders and they re\un very well.

 

[JimmyB]

I did some looking around on the Net and found that the controller is hard to find.

In the Uk there are few importers, but the USA should not be an issue:

Train Engineer Revolution

We have been manufactured the Revolution 2.4GHz DSSS Train Engineer System since 2007

www.revoelectronics.com

 

[PhilP]

Just be aware that the Aristocraft models are not the easiest to convert to DCC.

The lighting can be especially challenging, if you want full DCC control of it.

PhilP.

 

[Fred2179G]

controller

The 2,4Ghz Crest Transmitter (TX) is available new from Crest at the link posted by Jimmy. Less expensive if you use a retailer like RLD Hobbies.

They seldom come up for sale on the used market. Nobody needs more than 1 or 2, as each can handle 50 locos.

Once you have a TX you will find that the Crest Revolution is easy to use, easy to install in a new loco, and quite reliable.
The RX, like the one in your loco, are inexpensive and include sound.

 

[Fred2179G]

Battery power only isn't a bad thing

No, it's a great option. I'd be concerned about your NiMh batteries. A modern LiIon 18V pack with charger will last longer. Check out RLD Hobbies and similar retailers.

 

[PhilP]

No, it's a great option. I'd be concerned about your NiMh batteries. A modern LiIon 18V pack with charger will last longer. Check out RLD Hobbies and similar retailers.

I might dispute that..

I have 18 year old NiMH, still going strong.

YMMV, of course..
PhilP.

 

[James Stuart]

So, yesterday, I purchased a Crest Revolution transmitter, an 18 volt battery pack and a charger from RLD Hobbies. They were recommended by friend and fellow member of the HO club I belong to. He has a G scale loop around the ceiling of his train room where he has a really nice layout. It was professionally videotaped last year and is on YouTube as Edgewood Paciifc HO Scale Layout Tour with Richard Eberli It may not be G scale, but it's really nice. Our club was also videotaped by TSG Media. You can see it on YouTube as West Bay Lines HO Scale Layout Tour Thanks everyone for your input, I'll get photos and video up when I can.

Jim Rohrbach

 

[James Stuart]

So, you can see I got the new Transmitter, battery and charger. I charged the battery and installed it on the chassis with double stick tape. Instead of using "click" connectors, I cut it off the battery red and black leads and soldered them to the red and black leads coming from the 3-way switch (I'm still confused how that works). I programmed the new transmitter and successfully "linked" the loco and transmitter. I figured all was well and was looking forward to actually running the loco, but the transmitter screen showed "noLink" and I can't get it back no matter what I've tried. Help would be appreciated. Thanks!