Aristo-craft 5480 Basic Train-Engineer

[Henri]

After playing with my trains for the first time ever last Sunday, I'm thinking the 'trottle' from LGB I wanted to use, is quite something for the back...

What are the options to have a hand held speed control? I stumbled upon the Aristo-craft 5480 Basic Train-Engineer which for € 40,- average seems a good deal to me?

I know it maxes at 2 Amps, but that will be sufficient for me to start with.

Other options? (DC power, see forum...)

 

[Zerogee]

There are lots of folks who have got on very well with the Train Engineer for years, Henri, but just one word of caution - I THINK that the basic version (the orange one?) only has a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) power output, while the more sophisticated black one has switchable PWM or pure linear DC output.
Now, this won't probably matter too much to you at the moment, BUT if you ever get a loco with a DCC decoder fitted, these do not like being fed with PWM DC.
Just something to think about, it depends how much you want to look to the future as opposed to just getting up and running with something low-cost now.....

For what it's worth, if I were in your position and just wanted to have simple DC with one small loco running at any one time, I would probably look for a second-hand LGB50080 or similar - one of the little all-in-one transformer/controllers with a 1-amp output - which will be plenty for the locos you have now - and you should be able to find a good used one for around the £20-£25 mark.

Jon.

 

[PhilP]

For a single engine, on a small line, not a problem..
for a little more initial outlay, you could use a small R/C handset, and an 'ESC' (Electronic Speed Control)/Receiver to achieve the same thing..

If you decided to go battery-power in the future, you would then have the components for one loco already.. Correct choice of controller, and you wold only need additional RX/ESC for the other loco(s). - Plus batteries, of course.

http://rctrains.co.uk/

 

[ntpntpntp]

Ah... that's the orange Train Engineer I think? As I recall, folk recommend NOT using this one with DCC decoder fitted locos (and possibly not with locos with a lot of electronics) as it ONLY outputs PWM pulsed power which can confuse decoders. The more capable (and more expensive) black Train Engineer can be switched to smooth linear DC.

[edit] Jon Zerogee and I must have been writing our posts at the same time again! [/edit]

 

[Henri]

Yes this is the orange version indeed. I already did read about PWM <> DCC.

Good read gents, more options to explore!

And sorry for the stream of questions the last few weeks... Absolute novice at the keyboard!

 

[Zerogee]

Further to earlier post, re the LGB 50080, here's one that's in Germany:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LGB-50080...279335?hash=item4d46248167:g:Q4sAAOSwc1FXa9dE

Jon.

 

[Henri]

But the LGB 50080 is something I already have more or less. The 'problem' is that it is located at ground level. No comfy control...

A wireless remote control would be wonderful!

 

[JRinTawa]

Range on the Basic Train Engineer i.e. the orange version is limited and as others have said the PWM can cause some issues. I started with the orange one but soon changed to the large capacity black Train Engineer. If you keep a watch these too come up second hand from time to time. The Train Engineer can have it's output/track feed to PWM or linear DC, I run mine on linear DC. Hmm well more like "ran mine" as I've now graduated further to battery power then live steam - but that's a whole 'nother story!

 

[Zerogee]

But the LGB 50080 is something I already have more or less. The 'problem' is that it is located at ground level. No comfy control...

A wireless remote control would be wonderful!

Ahh, right.... a good point!
You could always mount the powerpack/controller on a post so that it is about waist height..... but you still wouldn't be able to wander around or sit in a comfy garden chair with a beer in one hand and the controller in the other.....

Jon.

 

[Gizzy]

If you do go for the TE Henri, go for the black one as others have said.

I had one myself for several years for the very reasons you mentioned.

I eventually upgraded to MTS (DCC) but I was more than happy with the TE....

 

[Henri]

Thanks!

RC Trains looks like something useful as well... Full power to the tracks and an ESC in each engine... Interesting...

 

[PhilP]

Thanks!

RC Trains looks like something useful as well... Full power to the tracks and an ESC in each engine... Interesting...

You can put an ESC between a controller and the track to start with.. Gives you RC of an analogue layout (one train)..

 

[a98087]

I had the same situation, I wanted a walkabout controller and nothing suitable, so I did as others have mentioned and built this

https://www.gscalecentral.net/threa...ive-to-the-aristocraft-train-engineer.299665/

It worked well, but I've now gone over to loco based set up, with onboard batteries.

Dan

 

[Gavin Sowry]

I run mine on linear DC. Hmm well more like "ran mine" as I've now graduated further to battery power then live steam - but that's a whole 'nother story!

Forever the gentleman, JR has retained TE for guests who turn up with 'out of the box' equipment.

 

[merlin]

I use a 'Black' TE. and I swear by it. I was fortunate enough to see it lurking on a trade stand, S/H, at a model railway show a few years ago and bought it for the princely sum of £60. I have since added a fan, also obtained S/H, at Stafford members sales last year. I use a 10 amp power supply which came from the come-in-handy store (isn't it nice when you can justify hoarding! ) and i've connected the arial via a plug and socket to an old telescopic car arial (another come-in handy!) which sits in a hardwood block attached to the side of the track bed. Disconnect the multi - pin connectors and the arial lead, remove the Rx from its mounting and put it away at the end of the day. Put the water-proof cover over the control panel and power supply, and switch off at the exterior socket under the track. Job done!

 

[Henri]

Yes I have managed to buy a 2nd Hand 'black' TE with three switch decoders in the mean time. I mentioned the 'orange' set on a Dutch G scale forum and someone offered me the black one for a very reasonable price, including the switch decoders (which actually have never been used)

 

[JRinTawa]

Excellent result Henri

 

[Dan]

You can use PWM on LGB DCC engines by installing a Non-polarized capacitor across the output of the controller (input to the engine electronics) . The capacitor will filter out the pulses and the engine will just see DC power!! Since the pulses are at a high frequency, just 2.2 microfarads will work.

PS this is what Aristocraft does with their 10 amp 27mhz train engineer.

 

[St A & M Rly]

Dam
Thefitting of a 2.2 microfarad capacitor on the output to get smooth DC sounds a little simple! Are their any other changes to the circuit when you switch the Train Engineer fromPWM to analogue in the base station.

If it is then it will save many from the expensive modz when the transmitter finally fails.

Amacf
St A&M Rly

 

[Tony Walsham]

Dan,
You can use a simple non polarised capacitor on board but be advised filtering above .1mfd across the output FET's could make them overheat.
You need something like the # 57091 PWM - Linear filter board Aristo used to make.

I have noticed that regular DC locos become a little more ON - OFF moving off from stationary. They lose the smoothness of PWM.