I punched a LGB train set back in the late 70’s or early 80’s (I really don’t remember when) to be used for the Christmas tree . Now that I have a grand child I’ve set it up again after letting it sit for 5+ years. The engine is a non-smoking locomotive 2010 and, I’d like to add a smoke generator. There are kits to purchase for this conversion but information on which model (2010 or 2010D) my engine is, is confusing. Underneath the engine it reads 2010. The cab is a dark brown with a black steam engine. What engine do I really have? And a little help with how to add a smoke generator would be helpful.
Another Newby from Battle Ground WA
- Thread starter Chris9
- Start date
Oh! I am not so sure? - Plenty of us have 'bashed' a loco, or two?? 
Welcome to the Forum Chris!
The stack you have should (more or less) just unscrew from the big nut underneath.. - Finding a way of routing power to the new stack will probably be your biggest problem?
The Stainz is not the most intuitive loco to take apart, but looking through a few threads on here should help?
PhilP.
Welcome to the Forum Chris!
The stack you have should (more or less) just unscrew from the big nut underneath.. - Finding a way of routing power to the new stack will probably be your biggest problem?
The Stainz is not the most intuitive loco to take apart, but looking through a few threads on here should help?
PhilP.
Welcome to the Forum Chris, as said not so sure that the older Stainz are so possible to put a smoker in. However if you are using a small controller Low Amp and Voltage putting out around 12v Dc as a Stainz is not too power hungry then a HO smoker may just be squeezed into the Chimney. But as Phil says getting juice to it may be a bit of an issue. However with a little bit of care using black small wire it may be possible to route wires to the rear plugs which are meant for lighting but would likely power a small smoke unit just fine. This would probably need to be run carefully down the side of the chimney under the footplate to emerge where the plugs are.
HI Chris,
Welcome to the forum. I assume you are planning to keep your Stainz as an analog locomotive. I added a LGB smoke unit to a Blue Train Stainz many,many years ago. What you want is LGB part no. 65103. You can get it from Trainli. I believe it has all the parts needed. You will need to open up the loco and have a soldering iron.
Here is the link: LGB-65103 Standard Smoke Stack (18v)
I don't remember how to open up the Stainz, but a lot of help and even video links can be found on the web.
I've attached a couple of pics. The smoke unit is turned on and off by swinging the contact circled in the second and third pics. The other wire for the smoke unit in my installation is inside the boiler and contacts the metal stem of the smoke unit.
This loco is still analog only - one of two locos I've yet to put a decoder in. I'll have to get to it sooner or later.
Welcome to the forum. I assume you are planning to keep your Stainz as an analog locomotive. I added a LGB smoke unit to a Blue Train Stainz many,many years ago. What you want is LGB part no. 65103. You can get it from Trainli. I believe it has all the parts needed. You will need to open up the loco and have a soldering iron.
Here is the link: LGB-65103 Standard Smoke Stack (18v)
I don't remember how to open up the Stainz, but a lot of help and even video links can be found on the web.
I've attached a couple of pics. The smoke unit is turned on and off by swinging the contact circled in the second and third pics. The other wire for the smoke unit in my installation is inside the boiler and contacts the metal stem of the smoke unit.
This loco is still analog only - one of two locos I've yet to put a decoder in. I'll have to get to it sooner or later.
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Thanks Phill for your knowledge on this subject. This will be my train project for 2021. And now I have to ask, what is the advantage of adding a decoder to your loco?
Paul2727
Registered
Hi,
As Chris says smoke units are available to fit these older locos, it's not a difficult job either, though the swinging metal contact is not always included with the kit. Please note that these are 18v units and barely give any smoke at slow speeds. Chris's pictures show a smoke fitted loco The suffix D you mentioned stands for Damf (Ie steam / smoke.) You can see the insulation ring on the bottom of chimney stem. Yours is solid metal. Easy rule of thumb on these older locos; No ring, no smoke.
Wishing you a good Christmas (Smoking or non smoking.)
Paul.
NB; exploded diagram covering 2010 / 2020 and D versions attached.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Welcome to the forum Chris
Decoder, is a device fitted to a loco to interpret instructions from a DCC "Command Station" to allow the operation of that loco and its fitted functions/features remotely. DCC (Digital Command and Control) It is at the heart of a method of being able to control a number of locos and their functions, like a sound card and smoke unit if fitted, on the same layout at the same time from a single controller. It would require a totally new speed controller as you will be supplying an AC current t the track rather than the DC simple system you are using at the moment. And we are talking money. Most locos bought for DC operation can be converted at a later date to DCC operation.
It is something you may want to consider sometime in the future as your use of a layout grows and the extra functionality it offers may benefit your operations. When you get to that point you may also be considering switching to battery/RC operation also. It is whole other subject that we all have differing opinions and paths we have forged here.
Maxi pretty much answered the decoder question in the post 11 above. I'm using track powered mfx/DCC digital control on my outdoor RR. A loco has to have a mxf or DCC decoder installed in order to be used on my outdoor layout. However, as a loco running around a Christmas tree, my Blue Train Stainz and old analog controller (transformer) work just fine.
I should mention Paul is right, my Stainz loco needs to be operated a moderate speed to get reasonable smoke out of the 18V stack. It does not do much at slow speeds. Just so you know - it's not a fault with the smoke unit. Also, don't overfill the unit with smoke fluid. It can't get hot enough to smoke if you do.
When it comes to digital track or R/C control - look carefully before you leap. It's a fairly expensive proposition. You need to do your research and try out different systems if you can. You want to be confident in your choice when you eventually make the jump. And yes, opinions most definitely differ on what's best!
I should mention Paul is right, my Stainz loco needs to be operated a moderate speed to get reasonable smoke out of the 18V stack. It does not do much at slow speeds. Just so you know - it's not a fault with the smoke unit. Also, don't overfill the unit with smoke fluid. It can't get hot enough to smoke if you do.
When it comes to digital track or R/C control - look carefully before you leap. It's a fairly expensive proposition. You need to do your research and try out different systems if you can. You want to be confident in your choice when you eventually make the jump. And yes, opinions most definitely differ on what's best!
I live in Massachusetts and have the 18 volt smoke stack with the upgrade kit.
The kit contains:
Picture of parts installation
18 volt smoke stack
Yellow wire for left rail track power to the stack on the bottom middle of the stack via the lever. part A
Brass/copper strip for right rail power and contact for smoke stack long barrel Part 81
Lever to similate an on-off switch part 80
new longer screw and washer for securing the lever. parts 79 and 84
And biggest issue is knowing how to remove the motor block to install the brass strip and yellow wire.
The kit contains:
Picture of parts installation
18 volt smoke stack
Yellow wire for left rail track power to the stack on the bottom middle of the stack via the lever. part A
Brass/copper strip for right rail power and contact for smoke stack long barrel Part 81
Lever to similate an on-off switch part 80
new longer screw and washer for securing the lever. parts 79 and 84
And biggest issue is knowing how to remove the motor block to install the brass strip and yellow wire.
Hi Chris - One other thing to be aware of! I'm pretty sure your loco has what is called a "clamshell" motor block from looking at your photos. When you do get around to opening it up there is a small ball thrust bearing on each end of the motor shaft. They tend to be held in place by the gear grease but can be easily dislodged. Don't loose them! A good practice I've heard before is to work over a bin of some kind like a baking pan to catch any flyaway parts.
Thanks Maxi for the information on decoders. Hopefully when my grandchild gets older and showers more interest in expanding the layout, my hobby budget will be increased. And thanks to Phil I’d like to research R/C controlled locos just because R/C fascinates me.
I have some information on how to take apart the loco but it’s only an illustration and in German. And thanks to Phil S. I will know how to reinstall the thrust bearings #5, shown in this image.
I have some information on how to take apart the loco but it’s only an illustration and in German. And thanks to Phil S. I will know how to reinstall the thrust bearings #5, shown in this image.
