Another Filcris Fixing Query

[Ralphmp]

I've bought a couple of the Filcris R3 curve roadbed boards to try out as a longer term installation option than the marine ply I've been using to date.

I've already read several really helpful articles on the forum about fixing track to these Filcris boards (or rather, NOT fixing the track...) but I didn't see anything about fixing the boards to supporting posts.

The attached diagram shows how I currently fasten the marine ply to the support post (2 galvanized angle brackets fastened to post and marine ply), and I'd like to use a similar method for the Filcris. However, as the Filcris expands / contracts significantly I'm worried it would either split or distort if I fasten it rigidly to the supporting posts using the same technique.

One idea I've had - which is based on the track-fixing technique suggested in another thread - is enlarging the holes in the angle brackets so they are considerably bigger than the diameter of the mounting screws, and then attaching the boards by putting washers between the screwheads and the brackets. This should give some rigidity whilst allowing a bit of movement.

Does anyone with experience of using Filcris boards have a view on whether my idea would work or have any alternative suggestions that they've had success with?

Many thanks.

 

[PhilP]

I would fix the board 'rigidly' in the middle of its' length, and then elongate the holes either side..

 

[Ralphmp]

I would fix the board 'rigidly' in the middle of its' length, and then elongate the holes either side..

Thanks Phil - that's something I hadn't considered. Your idea would give me a single "solid" point in the middle of the board from which any expansion and contraction could "radiate out", and if I mounted the track using the un-rigid approach described elsewhere, then board and track can happily expand and contract at different rates to their hearts' content. Weather permitting, I'll have a crack at this in the next day or so.

 

[PhilP]

I would leave a decent gap either end to 'whatever' you are transitioning to as well..
Probably (at least) 12mm at each end if fixing at this time of year. - This depends, of course, on how long your boards are.

I would not over-tighten the screws, and perhaps add a smear of copperslip to the penny-washers.
For longevity, use heavier gauge (possibly galvanised) brackets, and stainless screws.. Though they seem ridiculously expensive!

 

[Rhinochugger]

Can't comment as the filcris bits only arrived yesterday, and it's still raining.

All that I know is that it's made of recycled plastic, and thus the material is likely to have a high coefficient of expansion.

I have gone for their ladder frames, so I just fix the rails to the sides of the posts, and put block spacers in between (I hope). I then imagine that I screw the track to the blocks.

It will be the only section of track that is fixed at fairly short intervals.

Success rate? ask me in a couple of years' time

 

[dunnyrail]

I have built an 0 Gauge layout for a friend exclusively using Filcris. Made up a Box using Ladder 2x1" Approx and Filcris Decking Planks. Done this way as he wanted Ground Level. Just plonked on Bricks and allowed to move as it saw fit. Track fixing was resolved by just 1 Pin in the centre of each Yard of Track. Rail joints flexibility by using miveable Wire Located inside sections of Tube Soldered to the Rail. Movement allowed was as much as a Fishplate allowed. When the line was lifted to 3ft we had to use more supports to stop the drooping during temperature variation. In truth line is still a bit of a roller coaster but no worse than the real thing looks at eye level.

For G I would certainly want to use Track Clamps and allow the Board/Track relationship to flex by using fixings in the middle of odd sleepers as per this diagram.

Sorry about crudity of Diagram, best I can manage on the iPad. Thing you have to get your head around with Filcris Boards is that it is the Board not Track that Flexes. The exact opposite of what we are used to. Plus Night Time is the real issue as it will Contract when Cool obviously. But most Boards get put down during the day when they are warmer so have expanded. Once you have grasped these principles it does make great Track Base and will last forever.

I use this method of securing Track in my Shed Fiddle Yard with LGB Track. The fixings being somewhat larger to Stop any movement. Certainly works and allows Track to be lifted for alterations.
JonD