Finally started laying some track with more than just an oval. Although I plan to go DCC at some point (when finances allow) I'm using analogue and the first problem I have encountered is isolating track. So my locomotive collection now amounts to 4 and I was planning some sidings to park them in while one runs round the track. First mistake was to assume the Aristocraft points I'm using would isolate the sidings, but no...... So is there an wasy way to isolate sidings without individual power feeds and switches and all that entails? What do other people do?
Analogue track isolation
- Thread starter DavidH
- Start date
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
Yes, the non-isolating nature of G-scale points does catch a lot of folks out at the start, especially those coming up from smaller gauges where a lot of points ARE self-isolating.
The simplest method without external wiring is to put a break in one rail; there are many ways of doing this, of course - the plastic isolating rail joiners, sawing a gap into a rail, or using a ready-made LGB isolating track piece which has all the connection points under the black plastic cover:
Whichever way you make your track isolating break, all you then need to do is to wire a simple single-pole slide switch across the break - that is where the LGB one above makes it easy because you've got screw terminals under the plastic cover, but if you make your own then you just need to solder wires each side of the break and put the switch between them. The switch can be located on the sleepers right by the track break, a small slide switch can be fitted in between two sleepers and screwed in place through the plastic; you then have a self-contained isolating switch section that requires no other wiring to the rest of the layout.
Jon.
The simplest method without external wiring is to put a break in one rail; there are many ways of doing this, of course - the plastic isolating rail joiners, sawing a gap into a rail, or using a ready-made LGB isolating track piece which has all the connection points under the black plastic cover:
Whichever way you make your track isolating break, all you then need to do is to wire a simple single-pole slide switch across the break - that is where the LGB one above makes it easy because you've got screw terminals under the plastic cover, but if you make your own then you just need to solder wires each side of the break and put the switch between them. The switch can be located on the sleepers right by the track break, a small slide switch can be fitted in between two sleepers and screwed in place through the plastic; you then have a self-contained isolating switch section that requires no other wiring to the rest of the layout.
Jon.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Often the tricky bit is a weather proof switch.
There used to be someone selling waterproof switches in IP 65 boxes on ebay - like this one. You can also see the yellow isolating fish plates.
The feed simply goes from the live rail (e.g. the one closest to the water tower) through the switch to the dead rail The right hand rail under the stock car) so the wiring is pretty short. The other one goes from the other live rail (the straight stock rail) through the second switch to the dead rail under the left side of the coach)
The third switch is for the other loop on the right hand side of the water tower, and in this case uses one of these two live feeds (I think the one under the stock car) to keep the amount of wiring to a minimum.
Because these three tracks are loops, there are similar isolating fish plates at the other end, and I also made sure that the live rail was the outside rail of the outer loops, so the power around the rest of the circuit is uninterrupted
There used to be someone selling waterproof switches in IP 65 boxes on ebay - like this one. You can also see the yellow isolating fish plates.
The feed simply goes from the live rail (e.g. the one closest to the water tower) through the switch to the dead rail The right hand rail under the stock car) so the wiring is pretty short. The other one goes from the other live rail (the straight stock rail) through the second switch to the dead rail under the left side of the coach)
The third switch is for the other loop on the right hand side of the water tower, and in this case uses one of these two live feeds (I think the one under the stock car) to keep the amount of wiring to a minimum.
Because these three tracks are loops, there are similar isolating fish plates at the other end, and I also made sure that the live rail was the outside rail of the outer loops, so the power around the rest of the circuit is uninterrupted
playmofire
Registered
If you can get hold of them, Playmobil used to make a simple mechanical slide switch which acted as an isolater.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
There's a Piko switch box
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIKO-352...899753?hash=item1ca451aa69:g:h1UAAOSwodlapqwH
Thanks for your input. Madman, interested in your comments about the switches. Most of what I read on here suggests you can mix all the track but not much about turnouts. What’s the difference between the aristocraft, lgb and piko ( or any others). Is there a price difference to match?
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
David, people tend to have their preferences about points / turnouts. The large radius Aristo turnouts have a rather delicate switch to change polarity on the metal frog, but the 10ft diameter points are built differently.
In the early days, Mike had some problems with Piko points - pivot screws rusting / coming loose from memory, but that seems to have improved in later batches.
I don't like LGB R3 (8ft diameter) points, because the check rail for the curved turnout is in the wrong place and loco wheels bump against the end of it as they go through the curve (it annoys me).
Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice. If you've already got the Aristo points, stick with them I'd say. Dan'll give you his experiences with them which may not be as good as mine.