AMS track.
- Thread starter James M
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This old link should give you plenty of answers, I have been using their R4 (4ft rad) curves for some 7 years outside now with no issues and they match up to LGB and Peco (peco with the special fishplate) just fine.
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Thanks everyone for your help and advice. I normally run on 32mm but want to try 45mm too. I’m planning on building a small line in my garden so am weighing up options, costs etc for the track. I don’t know much about the various brands of 45mm track so your advice is very much appreciated.
Regards Alan.
Regards Alan.
Is this what you are thinking of buying Code 332 Flex Track | accucraft ?
The important thing to remember with 45mm gauge track systems is the rail height/code. The commonest type with the most compatible makes is Code 332 - these compatibles include LGB/Trainline/AMS/USAT/Aristocraft (now defunct)/Piko/Bachmann (brass only) and are the ones with most availability new or 2nd hand. Code 332 rail based track systems have the benefit of being more robust than what some consider to be the more scale realistic code 250 rail based types of track systems. Note the Tenmille make has a different rail profile to those already mentioned, requiring an adaptor to join to them, but is still sold as code 332. All brands mentioned are suitable outdoor use. There are some makers of specialised hand built track sections/geometry that use code 332 rail for their products, when specified, e.g. Garden Railway Specialists.
Peco and others make a track systems sometimes termed as G45 that uses code 250 rail as its basis. It again requires an adaptor to fit and mix with code 332 types. While you can mix and match these rail heights most of the time it's a bit of a faff and can lead you into problems if you want to use rail clamps rather than the normal "fishplate" type rail joiners supplied in your layout. Code 210 rail, also used in some 45mm gauged systems, is really the province of "finescale" G1 operators and should be avoided if you are not going down that route. Max
The important thing to remember with 45mm gauge track systems is the rail height/code. The commonest type with the most compatible makes is Code 332 - these compatibles include LGB/Trainline/AMS/USAT/Aristocraft (now defunct)/Piko/Bachmann (brass only) and are the ones with most availability new or 2nd hand. Code 332 rail based track systems have the benefit of being more robust than what some consider to be the more scale realistic code 250 rail based types of track systems. Note the Tenmille make has a different rail profile to those already mentioned, requiring an adaptor to join to them, but is still sold as code 332. All brands mentioned are suitable outdoor use. There are some makers of specialised hand built track sections/geometry that use code 332 rail for their products, when specified, e.g. Garden Railway Specialists.
Peco and others make a track systems sometimes termed as G45 that uses code 250 rail as its basis. It again requires an adaptor to fit and mix with code 332 types. While you can mix and match these rail heights most of the time it's a bit of a faff and can lead you into problems if you want to use rail clamps rather than the normal "fishplate" type rail joiners supplied in your layout. Code 210 rail, also used in some 45mm gauged systems, is really the province of "finescale" G1 operators and should be avoided if you are not going down that route. Max
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Perhaps a duel gauge section may work well for you. Some links below for various manufacturers. Most seem to be a smaller rail code than 332 as used by LGB etc. There may be others.
16mm NG Track
https://www.sunsetvalleyrailroad.com/track---rail.html
I used quite a bit of the AMS Euro style flexi track on my line, built in 2009 and lasted until 2015 when I realised with my son away at uni no use was being made of the garden line. It's now all stored way awaiting a future project. I found the AMS track to be perfectly good quality and good value - mine was all bought from TrackShack. It has a slightly squarer profile to the sleepers than LGB but that's barely noticeable when laid out in the garden.
Going back through my old photos, here's an example of a piece of AMS track (bottom left of the photo) amongst LGB track (the rest of the clearly visible track). This must have been early on in construction, going by the temporary crocodile lead power connections!
Going back through my old photos, here's an example of a piece of AMS track (bottom left of the photo) amongst LGB track (the rest of the clearly visible track). This must have been early on in construction, going by the temporary crocodile lead power connections!
In my opinion based on the stuff I have, it is of very poor quality and not worth the money I paid for it (It was a whole box).
The sleepers spent 7 years in a garden in Australia, in a temperate zone not in the tropics and not in full sun all the time, they are now brittle and crumble when handled and the rail chairs just turned to powder and disintegrated (see photos).
Whether I got a bad batch (they were made in 2004 but not bought till 2009) I do not know, but compared to the Aristocraft sleepers that were out in the garden much longer and are still usable today, they were just not value for money, more likely a waste of it.
They may be OK in low UV situations for a while but I think they are not UV stabilised and will fall to bits after a period of time no matter what.
They were the US narrow gauge version.
I may use them but I will have to glue them to the track and screw the track to a baseboard or cut a whole heap of sleepers and nail the track to them doing away with the plastic rubbish altogether.
The code 250 rail is still OK being brass but the cost of buying new sleepers is out of my budget.
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I have a box here I bought second hand. AMS USA Narrow gauge which is the same above, made in 2004.
It is in absolutely perfect condition but I didn't make a comment regarding quality because as far as I know it has never been used outdoors which obviously makes all the difference.
I know many years back, there was a batch of AristCraft track that must of been made from regrind (recycled) plastic to save costs and it also crumbled after years of exposure outside.
Whether it has no UV protection or if it is made from regrind plastic, it is not acceptable for such a large outlay as track often is.
It is in absolutely perfect condition but I didn't make a comment regarding quality because as far as I know it has never been used outdoors which obviously makes all the difference.
I know many years back, there was a batch of AristCraft track that must of been made from regrind (recycled) plastic to save costs and it also crumbled after years of exposure outside.
Whether it has no UV protection or if it is made from regrind plastic, it is not acceptable for such a large outlay as track often is.
I have a box here I bought second hand. AMS USA Narrow gauge which is the same above, made in 2004.
It is in absolutely perfect condition but I didn't make a comment regarding quality because as far as I know it has never been used outdoors which obviously makes all the difference.
I know many years back, there was a batch of AristCraft track that must of been made from regrind (recycled) plastic to save costs and it also crumbled after years of exposure outside.
Whether it has no UV protection or if it is made from regrind plastic, it is not acceptable for such a large outlay as track often is.
My quality comments about AMS and Aristocraft are made from a personal use perspective and from that perspective AMS will never get another cent from me.
I invested a lot of funds for what ended up as a dodgy product and I will tell everybody who asks that.
When I pay the equivalent of nearly a weeks wages for something, I expect some sort of quality even if its made in China. Can't blame them because they only produce to the customers specifications.
Rant is now over back to normal viewing
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GAP - Could you use the sleeper webs from another make to reuse your AMS rails, and did you mention they were code 250 not 332 ? If the rail profile is the same it might be worth a try rather than buying a whole new load of track - the brass is the costly bit Different makes sleeper webs are usually available as a separate item, e.g LGB, Sunset Valley Railroad, etc'
Paul M - There may be issues with using some "G" scale product with a code 210 based track system due to wheel flange depths and width. That's why I reccomend it is avoided.
It depends the way the OP wants to go. And how robust will it be if laid "floating" to a ballasted ground based line rather than an elevated one mounted securely on flat boards ? I see so many lines that are built using the lower code # rail that are uneven and buckled so much over time that their owners have trouble with derailing stock and locos as a result. That's why I'm glad I started with code 332 and stuck with it. Horses for courses I suppose. Max
Edit - might be worth contacting AMS with your photo evidence. they might just be aware of a faulty batch from around the time you bought (do you know the retail source ?) and might supply you new sleeper webs FOC. Worth a go, they are a long establish business in this sector and it would be in their interest to keep the customer happy
Max
Different makes sleeper webs are usually available as a separate item, e.g LGB, Sunset Valley Railroad, etc'Paul M - There may be issues with using some "G" scale product with a code 210 based track system due to wheel flange depths and width. That's why I reccomend it is avoided.
It depends the way the OP wants to go. And how robust will it be if laid "floating" to a ballasted ground based line rather than an elevated one mounted securely on flat boards ? I see so many lines that are built using the lower code # rail that are uneven and buckled so much over time that their owners have trouble with derailing stock and locos as a result. That's why I'm glad I started with code 332 and stuck with it. Horses for courses I suppose. Max
Edit - might be worth contacting AMS with your photo evidence. they might just be aware of a faulty batch from around the time you bought (do you know the retail source ?) and might supply you new sleeper webs FOC. Worth a go, they are a long establish business in this sector and it would be in their interest to keep the customer happy
Max
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My mate uses 10mm scale both Peco and Tenmmile with his layout. Only issues with them have been very old deeper LGB flanged wheels, modern LGB stock is OK. As for joining the rails to LGB, some years ago I Silver Soldered some 2-3 inch conversion Rails and these work just fine as the interface, though the Peco Tenmmile sleepers do need to be blocked up at the joins to match the difference in height of the sleepers. So long as this is done gradually over 2-3 feet no problems occur. Once it is all ballasted the differences just get lost to sight.
It seems common that some batches of ties (of every brand except LGB) at times did not include the UV stabilizer. Very famously happened to Aristo and they shipped a LOT of free tie strips.
Big problem is that you cannot inspect the ties to know if this has been done or not. I know several people with many years of good experience with AML, but clearly it is not an absolute.
I spray my track with Armorall every 6 months (using a garden sprayer.... turns black like new, track is about 15 years old. No failures. (Armorall has plasticizers and UV protection)
Greg
Big problem is that you cannot inspect the ties to know if this has been done or not. I know several people with many years of good experience with AML, but clearly it is not an absolute.
I spray my track with Armorall every 6 months (using a garden sprayer.... turns black like new, track is about 15 years old. No failures. (Armorall has plasticizers and UV protection)
Greg
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Greg, there seems to be dozens of Armo All products from dash wipes to external wipes, which product do you use, as I assume it is conductive as you are on track power.
The real Armorall, the original formula, although some of the competitors have the plasticizer and uv protectant
spray the tracks, let it sit a day, wipe off the rails with a towel or whatever you have that is the same as a Swiffer over here. (use the wet ones, they are a degreaser)
Greg
spray the tracks, let it sit a day, wipe off the rails with a towel or whatever you have that is the same as a Swiffer over here. (use the wet ones, they are a degreaser)
Greg
Another method is to just spray paint the track and sleepers with matt black or brown paint then shine the rail tops.
I have spray painted rails matt black in smaller scales to give a visual effect of lower rail height eg code 100 appears lower than it is.
Should have done that with my AMS stuff, but I was assured by the seller that it was UV stable.
Live and learn I do not to take for gospel the word of someone who is trying to sell me something anymore.
Caveat Emptor applies I suppose.
I have spray painted rails matt black in smaller scales to give a visual effect of lower rail height eg code 100 appears lower than it is.
Should have done that with my AMS stuff, but I was assured by the seller that it was UV stable.
Live and learn I do not to take for gospel the word of someone who is trying to sell me something anymore.
Caveat Emptor applies I suppose.