Aligning tracks on removeable bridges

ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
Country flag
Even since my railway was constructed I've relied on an ad hoc system for aligning the tracks at the ends of the two swing bridges I have which are needed to give access to the patio and the sheds. This has usually entailed wedging bits of wood and odd bits of roofing felt under the rails to try and persuade them to stay aligned - you can imagine the results!!

After more than a few derailments in my last operating session I decided enough was enough and so have hopefully sorted out my problem once and for all! I take no credit for inventing the system - I'm sure I saw it in Railway Modeller sometime in the previous century - but thought someone else may appreciate seeing this solution.

Take two bits of brass tubing and a bent beheaded galvanised nail (I would have used brass rod but didn't have any of the right diameter to hand).
IMG_5127.JPG


Solder the brass tubes to the ends of the rails and then pass the 'bolt' through them. Result, reliable alignment!
IMG_5131.JPG


Has anyone solved the problem differently? I'd be interested in seeing other solutions to what must be a common problem for we modellers who venture into the great outdoors.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
Has anyone solved the problem differently? I'd be interested in seeing other solutions to what must be a common problem for we modellers who venture into the great outdoors.

I used LGB rail joiners as shown here: http://www.gscalecentral.net/fb.ashx?m=179338 < Link To http://www.forum.gscalece.ral.net/fb.ashx?m=179338
 
9a8de168682641d2905629413f88207c.jpg
seeings you asked nicely a couple of fish plates soldered to an offcut of brass strip has been doing service on the pbmm for many years and the only maintenance it gets is a nip with the pincers whenever I think about it
close the bridge slide the plates into place across the rail joint and your up and running in no time
 
Hillman do super clamps that solve the problem perfectly,
See their website. Glendale have them in usually.
JonD
 
i use a pair of fishplates soldered to a piece of copper clad pcb, with a slit cut down the middle on one side
 
dunnyrail said:
Hillman do super clamps that solve the problem perfectly,
See their website. Glendale have them in usually.
JonD

Same as Jon.
Hillman clamps for me
 
I just slide ordinary Peco fishplates into place, following advice offered here. Works perfectly!
 
LNERGE said:
This is how it's done on this shiny new 12 inch to the foot scale traverser..
Looks very similar - but I bet mine was a lot less expensive.:D
Rik
 
fm12 said:
dunnyrail said:
Hillman do super clamps that solve the problem perfectly,
See their website. Glendale have them in usually.
JonD
Same as Jon.
Hillman clamps for me
Do you leave them loose or tighten them up at the start of each session? I just wondered if that makes them a bit fiddly to use each time.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
fm12 said:
dunnyrail said:
Hillman do super clamps that solve the problem perfectly,
See their website. Glendale have them in usually.
JonD
Same as Jon.
Hillman clamps for me
Do you leave them loose or tighten them up at the start of each session? I just wondered if that makes them a bit fiddly to use each time.

Rik

They do a bridge special that is tight to one rail and then a small spring and ball bearing lock onto the other rail or as we use on the east midlands layout just slide them a long and tighten them up with the key.
 
ge_rik said:
fm12 said:
dunnyrail said:
Hillman do super clamps that solve the problem perfectly,
See their website. Glendale have them in usually.
JonD
Same as Jon.
Hillman clamps for me
Do you leave them loose or tighten them up at the start of each session? I just wondered if that makes them a bit fiddly to use each time.

Rik

I use standard clamps,only open the bridge a couple of times a year just to clear undergrowth.A bit fiddly but only a minutes job
 
Back
Top Bottom