Advice required LGB Track Suitability

T

Tizaker

Registered
Hi all,
Hope to tap in to members vast knowledge of track laying. I would like to know if one should avoid using certain types of LGB track (ref to metal rails, corrosion etc) outdoors or are they all up to the job?
Track cost being a factor for this question and the avaliability of secondhand track on eBay.

regards
Rob
 
LGB, Aristocraft (also stainless steel), Piko brass track and Peco nickle silver are all built for outdoor use and should give you no problems whatsoever. I would recommend that you try and use as wide a radius as you can on your curves and points, say R3 at least. Best of luck.
 
Hi Rob!

You shouldn't find any problems with LGB track left out in all weathers (some of mine has been down now for 30 years....) but - the nickel silver track is not worth the extra as wheel scrub on curves wears it away pretty quickly. The older LGB plastic sleepers discolour with the effects of UV after a bit, but the newer stuff is fine - just beware old second hand track. I do find that the points wear out eventually - about 10-15 years for some of my more heavily used R1s; the problem is that the stretcher becomes detached from the blade and starts to sag.

Other forum members all have their favourite alternative manufacturers (I'm experimenting with TrainLine 45 at the moment) and will no doubt comment on weather resistance. The main issues about mixing manufacturers are:
[*] compatibility of track geometry, especially the differences between the ratio of curve to straight in the run off from points of allegedly the same radius[*]some manufacturers' kit doesn't track LGB profile wheels properly through frogs and check rails[*]there are said to be problems with live frogs and LGB locos fitted with pick up skates - jury still out on that Graham H
 
first thing is to decide on the size of radius, if you like the big american trains go min 10 ft curves, if your going uk/euroupe/us mining then small is ok but alot of stock will only go round 8 ft curves diameter
decide what you want to model,,,,,,,
 
All LGB track is situble from laying outdoors, but if doing so I would recommend a small amount of LGB graphite paste http://www.dragon-gscale.co.uk/lgb-51010-graphite-paste-418-p.asp < Link To http://www.dragon-gscale....aphite-paste-418-p.asp on each fishplate. If your planning to run big engines / long coaches then I would avoid using R1 points and curves. That said I do have R1s on my railway and have one or two big engines which run around them without any problems, this is mainly a space saving issue for me. All LGB locos and rolling stock will go round R1s although may look a bit silly with the overhang. If you have lots of space then I would recommend R3 points and curves.
 
I've had LGB track outdoors for over 12 years now. Some of the track was purchased 2nd hand so it could be even older! I also have a small amount of ART track. The rails are brass and the sleepers are UVA/UVB stabilsed plastic.

Expect to pay £3-4 a foot for 2nd hand LGB track. New now is £6 per foot length (LGB 10000 straight). You might find R1 curves even cheaper than this; they are easy enough to straighten with a rail bender, or as I did by using a Workmate.

I use copperslip in my fishplates, about half a pea sized worth.

Due to space constraints, I also use R1/R2 curves, but would recommend R3 or as large as you can go. However, I have no problems running with R1/R2 as I only run small to medium sized 0-4-0 and Bo-Bo locomotives.

I've had no issues at all running outside....
 
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