Advice on making a portable baseboard, please

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playmofire

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At long last, I'm getting round to setting out a layout, not as originally planned 10+ years ago in the garden, but indoors and portable, portable because it will be used at chapel coffee mornings and similar events and at HRCA (Hornby Railway Collectors' Association meetings).

Currently, I've been covering both these type of events laying the track each time and lfting it at the end of each event, both time consuming and limiting in what cvan be done, for example, when trying to operate points and signals electrically, wiring tends to suffer over time.

The layout fits into a 6 foot by 5 foot space (diagram attached, please ignore the two spare pieces of track) and is showing it set up for manual operation of points for the time being.

Space in the car and old age means the layout would have to be in pieces of about 3 feet by 2 feet or maybe a bit bigger. A "skeleton" baseboard approach, i.e. the board just being a support under the pieces of track would be a possible solution.

I have some of what I think is HDF pieces of a suitable size and about 6mm thick which could be used if thought suitable for a "skeleton" system.
 

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i made a mobile layout of 1600mm x 1600mm (3' 3") long ago.

modul15.JPG

that was just comfortable for a LGB R1 circle.

that consisted of four independent squares of 800mm x 800mm (2' 7.5") bolted together.
(800 x 800 passes through most doors and can be carried by one person alone)

modul04.JPG

as base i used or foldable tables, or sawhorses.

for more than a R1 circle and some scenic details one would need more space. (at least two more squares)

modul03.JPG
 
I would not use HDF (hardboard/Masonite) for anything that is going to be shifted around and assembled/disassembled.
Korm's modules look good and solid. Plywood top on dimensional lumber, Korm?
 
Chris Vernell said:
Plywood top on dimensional lumber, Korm?
Click to expand...
yes. lumber was seasoned about one year. plywood about a third inch. topped with half an inch of styropor for muffling sound and give the freedom to carve some minor surface features, like paths etc.
the things are stored most of the time in a very hot and dry attic during the last 13 years, but when i get it down for a presentation now and then, everything fits, no wobble, nothing askew. just dusting off and placing trees and buildings. not even the electric (analogue DC) is a problem, thanks to asymmetrical plugs.

buschland01.JPG
 
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For what you are planning MDF as is Homosote or Hardboard as we know it most unsuitable. Both can suffer from regular movement and will not pass the test of time. Plus any bracing required will make the boards heavy. Ply is the best bet, with suitable support underneath on both the edges, inside and diagonally will make a very strong and easily transported board. I can speak with experience here having made an 0 gauge exhibition line transported to over 30 shows.

5 mm ply more than suitable for the top with around 10mm ply for the supports cut into around 2inch strips. You can drill holes in the cross supports to further reduce weight or allow for wiring runs if you need them. Construction by veneer pins and wood glue will make a very strong durable structure, after all some WW2 planes were constructed the same way! Att diagram below shows the concept, dark lines represent the strips below board. Diagonal bracing as shown is normally ok but the dotted line ones could be added should you feel the need. Most DIY stores will cut the ply to your size requirements though for the strips you may need to add a bit for extra cuts.
IMG_8624.png
 
I remember as a young modeller starting out in 00, Sundeala was the material of choice for board tops, but was way out of my price range. I hear that "Kingspan" type foam is good, and very light, though not good for wood screws.
 
I agree that timber framing would be best, my preference would be planed softwood, around 20 x 40mm, ideally jointed at the corners (bridle or lap joints) or braced with steel brackets; and a top of 5 or 6mm ply. Whilst thinner ply could work, it might 'drum' a bit, and could move (i.e., undulate) if not properly braced. MDF could be used (and having some already makes it an attractive option!), but I would protect the edges with softwood strip, as it doesn't take knocks very well. Cutting it requires a mask and decent dust extraction, too...
 
Simply because I am me, my reply is slightly different.

I know it costs more than the raw materials but have you considered a baseboard kit, they are worth it if you don't have a wood work shop. It took me nearly two months to build two 2.5ft x 4.5ft boards, okay woodwork is not one of my skills, but by the time I had cut the wood, cut out wee doughnuts for wiring and all the sanding, I ever plan to build a baseboard from scratch again. The boards I built have a 6mm ply frame, with no more than 12" square frame, soft wood end's for dowls and bolts, the visual faces have an additional 6mm face glued and screwed from the inside, the tops are 9/10mm (3/8"ish) ply. This type of construction will last, I know of exhibition 0 gauge layouts that are over 20 years old made using this method.
The baseboard kits I purchased are basically to the same construction method I have used for quite a few years myself and at clubs I have been a member of, so I had confidence the kit design would work.

I have three 5ft x 3ft baseboards which came as kits, I sanded the wee circle cutouts and assembled a complete baseboard over three evenings, it took three evenings because I needed an occupation permit to use the dinning table each night.
I would also recommend investing in alignment dowls, again well worth the little extra expense, because I like things belt n braces, I use one alignment dowl for each 12" of baseboard length, the alignment dowls are just to align the baseboards and don't need to be heavy duty. My boards join on the 3ft face and have three dowls and two bolts.

The layout the present baseboards are for will be level across the middle of its length, the front of one and half of the baseboards will be lowered for a canal scene, while the whole of the rear will carry a raised track at varying levels. The raised track will be laid on a thin piece of ply glued down to profiled insulating block, I am using insulating block because it's easy to carve, light weight, and while I can't cut a piece back on if I over carve a section, I will be able to glue a piece on or just run the thin ply over the top and glue some broken pieces in the gap if I believe necessary.

My layout will be operated using DCC, if I was using a simple DC feed for the track I'd use chocolate blocks of the type that have pins to join the board's electrically, computer plugs and similar have their place, but for me they lack robustness.

That's my thoughts on baseboards, if you have the woodwork skills fine, I definitely don't.

Another option I have have seen someone use is a 6mm wood frame on a piece of insulating foam block, with a 6mm top, definitely lightweight, and if you have scenery to hide the wire's cables could be run on top of the board. That persons baseboard has stood the test of atleast 15 years.


David
 
Some of my friends make baseboards out of 5mm ply with a timber frame sandwiched between them, they are light and strong. It appears to be the ply top and bottom that makes them so strong, despite great big holes being cut out of the ply bottom.

My woodworking skills are poor, so baseboard kits for me.
 
In the smaller scales, people are working with egg-crate designs using plywood on edge to make a strong, but light frame. Can't see why it wouldn't work in our scale.

There is a trade-off when considering portability and car boots - while it will be lightweight, there will be added depth for the necessary strength. You pays yer money ............................ :rock::rock:
 
ColinK said:
baseboards out of 5mm ply with a timber frame sandwiched between them, they are light and strong
Click to expand...
remembers me, that in the '70ies and '80ies in german publications there were many mentions about using interior-doors as instant baseboards.
(those made of two hard-masonite boards with a wooden struckture in between)
 
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