Adjustable track gauges

tramcar trev

tramcar trev

all manner of mechanical apparatus...
As I have a bit of under gauge track on the very sharp curves I needed a quick set of adjustable gauges to facilitate the repairs.
I came up with these, notice how the washer is designed to run along the bottom flange?
I used Nyloc nuts simply because I had some and they are "firmer" on the thread and don't wobble around like ordinary nuts....

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An excellent idea,
Can i make a suggestion?

If you put a couple of normal washers on the outside (rail head thickness) and then another repair washer on it would be as good as a proper gauge....
 
Hmmmm why didn't I think of that???
Good idea....
 
Like those Trev?

Adjustable so you can ease out those curves.

I was talking to a PW worker on the WHR/FR last year about the track gauge, and he mentioned that the '2 foot' has to be eased out a little on sharp curves....
 
Over gauging is de rigour on most real tramways on tight curves. If you look at any of the Lisbon videos on Utube Route 28 in particular you can actually see it, to the untrained eye it appears to be an illusion.... Then again it may be my tangential brain......
 
.... and also wider grooves on curves.
 
The washers will give a little automatic gauge widening on the curves. If you look closely, the outer rail washer is touching the rail in two places, whereas the inner one only in the middle. Which means that the outer rail has to be that little bit further out to let the gauge in. It will also increase propertionally the tighter the curve gets. Ingenious! :thumbup::thumbup:
 
bobg said:
The washers will give a little automatic gauge widening on the curves. If you look closely, the outer rail washer is touching the rail in two places, whereas the inner one only in the middle. Which means that the outer rail has to be that little bit further out to let the gauge in. It will also increase propertionally the tighter the curve gets. Ingenious! :thumbup::thumbup:
Click to expand...
Yes, that's why I used the large washers..... As I was saying to someone else this is what really screws me re getting older, usually I couldn't tell you what I had for breakfast at 11:00am and other times I'm incredibly lucid. I've had all the scans and I don't have dementia....

I deliberatley didn't mention this automatic function - I was waiting to see if anyone would twig..... AND YOU HAVE, Well done that man!!!! I think the Moderator should award you 15, no make that 20 Brass Razzoo's....

I really get off when people read my sometimes innane posts....
 
trammayo said:
.... and also wider grooves on curves.
Click to expand...
Yep wide groove rail is made for use on curves. But I suspect a lot of the groove widening occurs thru natural attrition. I have seen wheels sets in the workshop for machining and the wear on the backs of the flanges is amazing..... Way back in 1967 I was an exchange student form the EC NSW to the SECV naturally I elected to be sent to Ballarat and very quickly ensconced myself at the Tramway workshops. One car constantly squealed its way along the somewhat rustic track No 26 I think it was. Anyway after due consideration and measurement it was discovered that one wheel was 1/8" smaller in diameter to the wheel on the other end of the axle. The toolsetter was taken aside and given some options....
See I'm reminiscing again just like a dementee....
 
Thanks Ross. Easy to use to as I discovered... Heat the rail with butane torch and let it spread to the new gauge roll the gauge slowly forward while heating using a piece of wood and it automatically regauges my track as the solder joints cool behind. Then it started raining so track works were abandoned..... SO much easier to use that the scraper type track gauges and being adjustable, the sky is the limit.....
Might be worth a patent? if I had a cuppla Mill to waste
 
Rolled threads are claimed to be stronger than cut threads because the rolling doesn't cut the grain of the metal and supposedly work hardens the threads.... This is of the utmost importance in this design, if you wished to use cut threads the diameter of the spacer bar would need to be at least 10mm....
 
Good idea for the rails. I was installing new flex track (AMS) & found it was just undersize on the straights. On the curves it was smaller still. So I made my own ties (sleepers) to modify the curves & found that a small door hinge was an excellent rail spacer to lay on & inbeteen the track while nailing down.
My Aristo gauge is great for checking but has to be held vertical to work out spacing.
I never thought of allowing more room for curves.
Good tip!
Regards, Andrew
Sandbar & Mudcrab Railway
 
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