Newbie here. I have a basic oval LGB and want to add turnouts to make it interesting. Do people recommend getting a left and right R1, then another left and right R1, then a set of R3 or some other combination? Wanting to do indoor in up to 8x10ft or so space. I need track plan ideas. Thanks!
adding turnouts to basic oval, step wise progression?
- Thread starter tempom
- Start date
Don't put any turnouts in that are going to give you a consecutive left, right, left or vice versa track set layout.
Straight, left, right, straight combination is just only acceptable.
Straight, left, right, straight combination is just only acceptable.
eight by ten foot is not big for largescale trains. so, larger than R3 is more or less out.
the basic question for yourself should be, do you like short trains? or big trains with big locos and long cars?
if you like bigger stuff, forget R1 switches and go directly to the R3 switches and curves.
buying one left and one right switch and some straights for the first "passing siding" is how i started to grow from the starter set.
then a third switch for a short siding to park unused cars.
for some plans (and a lot of other things) look at this LGB publication:
the basic question for yourself should be, do you like short trains? or big trains with big locos and long cars?
if you like bigger stuff, forget R1 switches and go directly to the R3 switches and curves.
buying one left and one right switch and some straights for the first "passing siding" is how i started to grow from the starter set.
then a third switch for a short siding to park unused cars.
for some plans (and a lot of other things) look at this LGB publication:
-
1
- Show all
With that space you are more or less confined to R1 curves and points, maybe R2 if you want a double loop. You can get R2 points, compatible with LGB. You should limit your rolling stock accordingly, my rule of thumb is nothing longer than 45cm and no more than 6 coupled wheels (some exceptions). My layout is indoor and about that size. There is an LGB publication with small track plans, I'll dig out the link.
LGB small (indoor?) track plans
Also my thread "Return to the great indoors" has a few ideas.Return to the great indoors
LGB small (indoor?) track plans
Also my thread "Return to the great indoors" has a few ideas.Return to the great indoors
Last edited:
Lgb r3 is approximately 8ft diameter, so it might be a very tight squeeze To have a circle of r3.
Also consider the angle of each track as r1 are 30 degrees and 12 to a circle while r3 are 22.5 degrees and 16 to a circle.
There is track planning software called anyrail, the free version is limited to 50 pieces of track but this might help you plan.
Dan
Also consider the angle of each track as r1 are 30 degrees and 12 to a circle while r3 are 22.5 degrees and 16 to a circle.
There is track planning software called anyrail, the free version is limited to 50 pieces of track but this might help you plan.
Dan
I'd suggest also download a computer track planning program such as AnyRail (oops, crossed with Dan's post) so you can play around with ideas.
You're not going to get a long passing,runaround loop with a 10 foot oval if you have it internal to the oval but you can handle longer trains if it's external, see the attached photo of an approx 7 foot by 5 foot layout.
You're not going to get a long passing,runaround loop with a 10 foot oval if you have it internal to the oval but you can handle longer trains if it's external, see the attached photo of an approx 7 foot by 5 foot layout.
Attachments
Make sure you do not make the classic error of creating a "reverse loop". Say, putting a turnout at opposing corners of the layout to create a diagonal path across it, or such like.
As an aside (here comes the dreaded thread drift
) The great thing about LGB's track system, and most other compatibles, is that it has always retained a good resale value in the secondary market. So, as your needs and desires change the hit to the pocket should not be too great as you replace track components to allow the use of larger/longer stock, or perhaps a less restrained outdoor one 
. Having said that all (most ?) LGB's own made locos/stock follows their rule it must be able to negotiate R1 curves, subject to some rules being observed. If I'd known where I'd end up after 18 years in this hobby I'd be asking myself, "You have got to be kidding !"
As an aside (here comes the dreaded thread drift
) The great thing about LGB's track system, and most other compatibles, is that it has always retained a good resale value in the secondary market. So, as your needs and desires change the hit to the pocket should not be too great as you replace track components to allow the use of larger/longer stock, or perhaps a less restrained outdoor one . Having said that all (most ?) LGB's own made locos/stock follows their rule it must be able to negotiate R1 curves, subject to some rules being observed. If I'd known where I'd end up after 18 years in this hobby I'd be asking myself, "You have got to be kidding !"
As Dave the Marvel mentions, you are restricted to R1 points and R1/R2 curves.
I needed a space of 6 ft to put in this double track R1/R2 oval on my layout.
A useful trick I used on my previous layout is to put crossovers on a curve by using a pair of R1 points of the same hand.
You can see how at 40 seconds of this video....
I needed a space of 6 ft to put in this double track R1/R2 oval on my layout.
A useful trick I used on my previous layout is to put crossovers on a curve by using a pair of R1 points of the same hand.
You can see how at 40 seconds of this video....
-
1
- Show all
Before you start, can you indicate what kind of locomotives and cars you want?
If you build something and then your locos won't run on it, you will be upset.
Most US prototypes will NOT negotiate R1 switches.
Greg
If you build something and then your locos won't run on it, you will be upset.
Most US prototypes will NOT negotiate R1 switches.
Greg
