Accucraft Paint Available Outside of China?

JohnSol

JohnSol

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Acetone won't touch it, It seems to be a thin viscosity high color density paint. If the paint wasn't thin with high color density, it would obscure the details in the substrate. What's more, the paint applied to metal parts appears to have a metal etching component. Perhaps the models are primed with a metal etching primer. I don't know.

For safety or ecological reasons, paint availability in Western countries has become limited. Most of the substitute / replacement paints that I've tried produced inferiors results.

Does anyone know what the Chinese manufactures of Accucraft and Aster models using for paint? Is there a quality alternative?

...or is this an industrial secret?
 
What are you trying to do ? Full strip and repaint or touch in scratches ? What Accucraft model and colour ? Have you contacted Accucraft directly for their suggestions. It's not a "secret formula" - Most manufacturers use a durable 2 pack paint that requires specialist equipment and respirators ( the stuff is carcinogenic in its liquid form) when being applied, not for most hobbyists. They are not so easy to remove as they are a hardened "epoxy" type finish. I have found once you have the correct colour reference then properly applied automotive refinishing 1 pack from a rattle can will equal a factory finish in appearance, but perhaps not the out and out durability. Most likely with a metal model an etch primer will have been involved. Max
 
Everything has changed since my boyhood days of model building. Back then, the local hobby shop was the source for everything from paints to (real) glue. A person could find specialties items like etching primers, lacquer and epoxy paints at an auto body and paint supply house. Those sources have gone the way of the buggy whip.

My calls to Accucraft bared no results. I was told that they subcontract all their repair work.
 
JohnSol said:
Everything has changed since my boyhood days of model building. Back then, the local hobby shop was the source for everything from paints to (real) glue. A person could find specialties items like etching primers, lacquer and epoxy paints at an auto body and paint supply house. Those sources have gone the way of the buggy whip.

My calls to Accucraft bared no results. I was told that they subcontract all their repair work.
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Well here in the UK it is quite normal to be referred to a qualified service agent for repairs and repaints of Accucraft's (UK, US & D) metal locos. The only "volume" production company I know that that offers a full service facility for old and current product is Roundhouse for their range of live steam 1:19 and battery powered locos.

You have not mentioned what you are trying to achieve and whether it is a live steam or electric model. Impossible to give good advise, and there is plenty available on here GSC, without it. Some of Accucraft's service agents watch and post on here too.

Things move on over the years with who and how things are retailed by. As for "real" glue my grandparents swore by Seccotine (a fish based glue). I prefer the plethora of modern adhesives that you can match to the application to get the best results :) Max
 
There are several mods and repairs that need to be done. A couple engines and a few cars have broken solder joints. Some of the soldering has been completed, and now need to be repainted. Another hobby project is creating and installing an interior in an Accucraft caboose.

My wife reads to relax and I work on models.... it's purely a hobby... a return to a simpler time.
 
JohnSol said:
There are several mods and repairs that need to be done. A couple engines and a few cars have broken solder joints. Some of the soldering has been completed, and now need to be repainted. Another hobby project is creating and installing an interior in an Accucraft caboose.

My wife reads to relax and I work on models.... it's purely a hobby... a return to a simpler time.
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If anyone finds a solution, I have a blue Accucraft Caledonia that needs a bit of touching up (if that's not rude)
 
My45G said:
If anyone finds a solution, I have a blue Accucraft Caledonia that needs a bit of touching up (if that's not rude)
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I used to have one of those, the original electric version from about 15 years ago, that sold at a very advantageous price. Contact Accucraft UK directly. They should be able to tell you the paint spec' BS/RAL/Pantone, etc'. Then contact an auto paint re finisher specialist in your area to mix it as a touch in or aerosol. You will probably need a satin varnish to finish off, Phoenix precision paints do a good one. Or you could speak to someone like Tony Willmore at Rhos Helyg Locomotive Works. He offers a whole load of loco refinishing services. He did a full repaint on my black Accucraft "Joan" to its current Crimson Lake livery.
 
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maxi-model said:
I used to have one of those, the original electric version from about 15 years ago, that sold at a very advantageous price. Contact Accucraft UK directly. They should be able to tell you the paint spec' BS/RAL/Pantone, etc'. Then contact an auto paint re finisher specialist in your area to mix it as a touch in or aerosol. You will probably need a satin varnish to finish off, Phoenix precision paints do a good one. Or you could speak to someone like Tony Willmore at Rhos Helyg Locomotive Works. He offers a whole load of loco refinishing services. He did a full repaint on my black Accucraft "Joan" to its current Crimson Lake livery.
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I tried that, Accucraft said they did not know the colour and couldn't offer any help. I have thought about a total respray as I am not keen on the shade of blue thay used, I think it is too light. The dis-assembly of the loco is quite complex and the cost of repainting and re-lining is probably too expensive v the value of the loco
 
My45G said:
I think it is too light. The dis-assembly of the loco is quite complex and the cost of repainting and re-lining is probably too expensive v the value of the loco
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The colour is the preference / in the eye of the beholder..
Only you can (and need) to justify the cost to yourself. - A good paint / lining job, may-well add value, if it is either nearer to the prototype, or a fictitious livery that strikes a chord, if you should ever sell-on.

PhilP.
 
My45G said:
I tried that, Accucraft said they did not know the colour and couldn't offer any help. I have thought about a total respray as I am not keen on the shade of blue thay used, I think it is too light. The dis-assembly of the loco is quite complex and the cost of repainting and re-lining is probably too expensive v the value of the loco
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Try to find an auto paint refinishing specialist who have a spectrophotometer available. This a company I have used in the past LKQ Coatings | UK's widest brand offering of paint and consumables to the repair industry. They can mix an exact match from a suitable paint sample and usually supply as a touch in or aerosol can. It's not that cheap though, I had it done there about 15 years ago to match a colour sample for and old Indy 500 winner to produce a batch of painted slot car bodies for a US customer. Max
 
maxi-model said:
Try to find an auto paint refinishing specialist who have a spectrophotometer available. This a company I have used in the past LKQ Coatings | UK's widest brand offering of paint and consumables to the repair industry. They can mix an exact match from a suitable paint sample and usually supply as a touch in or aerosol can. It's not that cheap though, I had it done there about 15 years ago to match a colour sample for and old Indy 500 winner to produce a batch of painted slot car bodies for a US customer. Max
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Thank you for this. there is a branch near me so I'll make contact and see if they can help
 
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My45G said:
I tried that, Accucraft said they did not know the colour and couldn't offer any help. I have thought about a total respray as I am not keen on the shade of blue thay used, I think it is too light. The dis-assembly of the loco is quite complex and the cost of repainting and re-lining is probably too expensive v the value of the loco
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Surely, you've heard of the Chinese puzzle. ;)

Seriously, I don't believe that Accucraft ever considered repair when constructing their models. That doesn't change the fact that their models are labor intensive, complex, very well detailed works of art. Like all fine art, they deserve to be preserved and maintained.
 
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I recently used Phoenix precision "Roundhouse enamel" to repaint my Ragleth which I bought cheap as the previous owner had had "nose dived" it from some height and had flattened the cab roof! I found the Paint was really easy to use, also used their etch primer direct onto brass substrate which I had previously stripped with "Wilkinsons" bog-standard paint stripper (get a big polythene bag from oven cleaner kit to do this!)

Also painted smokebox with "high temp black", fitted live steam (DJB) whistle kit, manufactured and fitted new safety valve cover and relocated coal basket over gas filler valve with remove able coal load.

Photos below, judge finish for yourself...

image.jpegimage.jpeg

PM me if you would like to know any further details

Dave
 
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Looks good indeed
What was the make of the 'high temperature' black paint... was it car engine black?
 
The mechanic said:
I used this for the black boiler work....



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it looks just the job and it also seems to have a matt sheen which is great for weathering as well.
I will be placing an order immediately :)
 
Hi Mike,

If you are going to use these products, just a word of caution, they do leave a lingering smell, so the usual precautions of ventilation and PPE are adviseable. The other thing is that for Ragleth, I had access to a professional full-sized automotive spray booth complete with environmental temperature control. (I teach Motor-vehicle studies for my sins!) Once sprayed, the paint was low-baked at 80 degrees Centigrade for one hour. I am convinced that this process led to the deep gloss in the red enamel. If you try to paint anything at this time of year in the UK, you will have problems as the humidity levels (damp) in the air are very high and the air temperature is a bit "nippy" at certain times leading to potential "blooming" of the finish, so if you can, warm everything through before painting.

Good luck and have fun!

Dave
 
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