Accucraft caboose for the C&RG

[Riograndad]

A new caboose for the railroad and a test of pictures with the new computer,some little jobs to do on the car and a simple interior is being knocked up to hold the glazing in as the glaze falls out due to the glue loosing its stick, lights are to be fitted to the interior to take the plainness out,Bachmann brakeman also being modified and so far just had a new hat.The car body has had a matt varnish coat to take the shine off,one of the marker lights needs refixing and a couple of lenses missing and to be fixed.Overall a very nice car,all brass but the biggest problem is the roof does not come off

 

[Rhinochugger]

These are nice pieces of kit - the floor comes away easily if you've got a nut spinner the right size - the one I use came with my Accucraft Shay.

The window glue gets tired over the years, and sometimes when you pick the caboose up, if your finger isn't bang in the centre of the panelling, you can inadvertently apply pressure and ...

 

[JimmyB]

The window glue gets tired over the years, and sometimes when you pick the caboose up, if your finger isn't bang in the centre of the panelling, you can inadvertently apply pressure and ...

And how do you know that

 

[Rhinochugger]

And how do you know that

Pass me the superglue

 

[PhilP]

Pass me the superglue

NO! - Not for glazing..

It can cloud the plastics.. - You can guess how I know this to be true.

 

[Rhinochugger]

NO! - Not for glazing..

It can cloud the plastics.. - You can guess how I know this to be true.

No, sorry, that was a quip, not intended as modelling advice.

Yes, I've messed up some glazing in the past - polycarbonate should be OK though (although I haven't tried it)

Bostik multi purpose or UHU for glazing. If going with UHU, and if you're tempted by the solvent -free version, make sure that you have somewhere that the glued item can sit for a long time while you wait for the glue to do its stuff. UHU full fat version, 101 Octane, un-decaffeinated, with solvent will set in a very short time - the solvent-free version takes hours - it works well, mind, if you can afford the wait, but don't expect success if you have to hold something in place

 

[Riograndad]

No super glue for glazing he says from experience!!!A little more done on the interior,cupula panels cut and ready to go in but I may make the safety gauges and shut off valves as a little extra detail,the cupula seats have been put together with a half height floor,just the tops of ladders and locker doors to cover the electrics on the floor,when the item is inside the car the high floor is not noticeable and saves weight.I don`t plan to light the cupula anyway,stove still to make..

 

[Riograndad]

These are nice pieces of kit - the floor comes away easily if you've got a nut spinner the right size - the one I use came with my Accucraft Shay.

The window glue gets tired over the years, and sometimes when you pick the caboose up, if your finger isn't bang in the centre of the panelling, you can inadvertently apply pressure and ...

Yes the body comes off with ease,11BA spanner does the job although to get the thing apart cost me another 7 quid for a set of spanners!!

 

[Riograndad]

A little more done on the car,the glazing is in and should not push out anymore and some of the interior now in position,I used 20thou clear on the cupola and 40thou on the main body,the side windows on the cupula I left open as easy pick up points when lifting the car .I had to make up the difference from the car body to the original internal window frames and 20thou styrene sheet was the perfect solution to allow a one piece of clear to cover all three widows in one go,then the difference between the car body and the glaze made up with some 60 thou,the internal panels/seating then glued in nice n flat,sorted.
A simple stove which is lit and ready to go in and working on internal lighting now,some way still to go but slowly taking shape.Oh I wish that roof came off as would make working on the inside so much easier.The only way to take a pic inside is through the end door!!!

 

[beavercreek]

Looking really gnice Rio.
I had a 1:20.3 scale '3 Foot Classic Models' brass caboose which was a lovely thing but so heavy! My inclines meant that it didn't get used so it went to a new home.
I have got the 1:20.3 Bachmann one, which isn't that light, but looks good.....comes fully fitted too.
I do also have short caboose (twin bogie) made out of wood , a 'Hartford Products' kit... lovely thing it is.. but being wood, made from a kit and with soft metal bogies, needs care in handling!

 

[Riograndad]

Looking really gnice Rio.
I had a 1:20.3 scale '3 Foot Classic Models' brass caboose which was a lovely thing but so heavy! My inclines meant that it didn't get used so it went to a new home.
I have got the 1:20.3 Bachmann one, which isn't that light, but looks good.....comes fully fitted too.
I do also have short caboose (twin bogie) made out of wood , a 'Hartford Products' kit... lovely thing it is.. but being wood, made from a kit and with soft metal bogies, needs care in handling!

Looking really gnice Rio.
I had a 1:20.3 scale '3 Foot Classic Models' brass caboose which was a lovely thing but so heavy! My inclines meant that it didn't get used so it went to a new home.
I have got the 1:20.3 Bachmann one, which isn't that light, but looks good.....comes fully fitted too.
I do also have short caboose (twin bogie) made out of wood , a 'Hartford Products' kit... lovely thing it is.. but being wood, made from a kit and with soft metal bogies, needs care in handling!

Yes a heavy beast to say the least and with the simple modifications I have tried to keep any extra weight to a minimum but just had to keep those windows in somehow!!,shorter trains will be the order of the day when using the car,I really wanted the Bachmann item but alas none about and not likely to have any new ones about ever again so I had to settle for the Accucraft one,nice car overall but getting the interior in without the roof coming off is a real pain.I have not track tested it yet but my slight inclines should not pose too much of a problem for the heavier locos.
Rio

 

[Riograndad]

Getting on with this again after a small problem with the lighting,thats all I`m saying as the thread will drift into the realms of more humour if I say anymore.
Needless to say it needed a design change as I had to use bulbs as I could not get 1.5v peanuts locally,the wall light now fitted is a little low as I had to get it under the floor of the cupola but not a problem,I used a discarded Sierra passenger car internal bulb holder from old bashes under the bulb to give the body of the wall light and added a top defuser,I also had to change the bulb in the stove,I will maybe add a second light in the roof towards the front of the car.I set up a test last night and all went well.
The interior needs a few little details added to finish so I tried out painting a few "pin ups"for the lockers/walls on a few scraps of styrene sheet and I suppose they are useable at least good enough for the model crew figures?.
I also repaired the broken marker light on the rear,I drilled out the original brass tube that had snapped and replaced it with brass rod so that sorted too and all working fine,the missing lens also fixed with a circle of green plastic and some UHU.
Sorry for the under par pics,poor lighting in the kitchen.