AC voltage reading but no response from a locomotive?

I wonder if anyone out there remembers Hornby's failed experiment with Zero 1? It was an early kind of DCC System that Hornby in their innocence though would work with a Train Set that is put up and put down on the carpet or wherever. All with potentialy dirty track, fishplates and poor or badly bent fishplates. What was not understood at the time was not the difficulties of keeping power going round the circuit, oh no the lack of a good signal for the Zero 1 Packets (of instruction to go forwards,speed up etc) that needed to be recieved by the Chip in the Loco. Over the years Zero 1 died a death but some had success as they perhaps were the early exponents of DCC, understood the issues and managed to get it to work.

Jump forwards to now and we have issues with DCC as Sarah so amply illustrates. Others have no problems at all. So if you use brand new track which in truth many of us did when we started then there are few problems. But over the years track and fishplates oxidise, they are moved and reconnected then we start to see the issues. This is of course amplified by using second hand track. But hey we have all (well most of us I expect) used second hand track so nothing wrong with that, heck I even sold some to Sarah and many others in the Forum as well.

Where is this all going?

Firstly I need to say that someone offering something to a Forum member is not Charity, it is a friendly helping hand that ilustrates the good of this Forum. I have had a few offers of FOC goods and done a few myself and why not? We all get so much enjoyment from the comradry on here. Many of us have those extra bits that just sit around from our early days, some like myself inherited bits from a past friend that has gone to that great Train Shed in the Sky, so I am sure that they and us would and do get a buzz from helping out a fellow Forum Member.

Sarah I know what pride can be a poisoned challis, but try to move beyond it when someone offers help that is more than just words.

Moving to the recent issues, I feel that the Lamp thing was one of those Lightbulb moments possibly for a few of us here, it certainly is a good clue.

Another thing that perhaps is where the Meter is giving the wrong message as I intimated earlier about those important Packets of Information getting from the Base Station to the Chip. I wonder can a Meter read the Resistance that may be present on a Joint as this could/may an indication that those important packets are not getting trough. As Sarah has a Meter perhaps some one can point a helpful route to those checks. I had a little play with my Meter just now but with no meaningful results.

As for those offered Track Connectors, they are very simple to fit and unfit so will be another reduction of issues on your Track Sarah.

Oh and just to show that Trains set up and pulled apart can work Sarah, have a look at this short vid of my Auto Line that I take to BBQ's. Not DCC but fully automatic, though I have not yet figured out reversals and point changing to match as yet!


 
Another reason for poor conductivity, especially with small 0-4-0 locos, is loose or uneven track. Make sure the track is firm and flat against whatever track bed you are using. Watch the trains as they go round and note any movement such as swaying from side to side. You can then "pack up" or "tamp down" the as required.
 
Re the light:
Mainly, if the light goes off and the train stops, (when you have not told it to stop) then there is a power pickup issue.. - Wobbly track / stuck skate, point-frog, 'iffy' joint, dirty rail most probably??
The light can be 'off' for other reasons though..
1. It is most probably directional, so 'on' going forwards, but 'off' in reverse.
2. DCC systems normally have a 'light' key, so you can turn the light off, if you wish.

So if you are running your loco forwards, then the light should be on.
If you bring the loco to a stop, the light should still be on. - DCC so power available all the time.
If you set the loco to reverse, then the front light (if set up for directional control) will go off and the loco will move backwards.. - If fitted, a rear lamp (if directional) may come on.

There may also be a cab-light.. Default for this tends to 'on' all the time (controlled by the 'light' key) though this is far from prototypical. - The beauty of DCC is that you can have this lamp controlled separately if you wish, and many now do this.
 
Thank you for that post Jon.

It's a question with me to pay for everything. Even if something comes f.o.c I still feel less uncomfortable paying for it, even if it's with postage stamps for a small value item.

I keep my eye out for things like track connectors and recently bought 3 secondhand.

SW
 
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