A Buffet car for the Sandstone & Termite
- Thread starter gregh
- Start date
Greg not sure how you made your Corridoor Connections. I have made them in both TT and 0 Gauge using Black Cartridge Paper. Saves on Painting. Of course yours may be White Prototypically under there, if so my comments are wasted.
The design that I used for folding up came from an article in the Railway Modeler donkeys Years ago.
Jonad
The design that I used for folding up came from an article in the Railway Modeler donkeys Years ago.
Jonad
gregh
electronics, computers and scratchbuilding
The order of `sitting people` has arrived and after some surgery on some of them to change arm positions and some painting, the Buffet ca now has a full complement of customers for breakfast.
(I wish I could get closeup pics to focus!)
This pic is taken looking into a small mirror inside the carriage.
(I wish I could get closeup pics to focus!)
This pic is taken looking into a small mirror inside the carriage.
You must have 'flipped' the picture from the mirror?? - Writing on the Notice is the correct way round!
Egg-cellent work..
It will have been worth the effort if it ever runs on a table-top layout, and a small person spots the interior through a window!
I find the wonder of a child watching 'the trains go round' makes all the effort worth-while.
Must be getting soft in my old-age!
Egg-cellent work..
It will have been worth the effort if it ever runs on a table-top layout, and a small person spots the interior through a window!
I find the wonder of a child watching 'the trains go round' makes all the effort worth-while.
Must be getting soft in my old-age!
gregh
electronics, computers and scratchbuilding
The SaTR management decided to try this new fangled fluorescent lighting in the buffet car.
I bought 100, 3mm, white LEDs off ebay for about $8 which included 100x 100 ohm and 100x 470 ohm resistors for 5V or 12V operation!
I cut from perspex, 6mm x 6mm x 50mm strips and drill each end 3mm for the LEDs to fit in. I wrapped Al foil around the top to stop light coming out the tops!
This how one “4’ fluorescent tube” looks .
Then I connected 4 of them in a line for the whole ceiling.
This is how 2 of them look, mounted on the ceiling. A pretty good effect I think.
I used ‘warm white’ LEDs in the vestibules to simulate old fashioned incandescents, running at just 6mA. The kitchen area with its frosted windows, has just has two white LEDs running at 12mA
So in all there are 14 LEDs taking a total of only 70 mA at 12V. (I don’t have the LiPo yet – I’ll use LiPo as they retain their charge for ages.)
The circuit I used looks like this:
I did the no-no of connecting LEDs directly in parallel, but it works! Each LED in the fluoro is taking 18mA.
While I was testing, I had an intermittent connection which caused flickering like a fluoro starting. Hmmm, I thinks - I need a picaxe to do a low voltage alarm for the LiPo, so maybe I’ll add a flickering start feature later. (must get back on that medication!)
I bought 100, 3mm, white LEDs off ebay for about $8 which included 100x 100 ohm and 100x 470 ohm resistors for 5V or 12V operation!
I cut from perspex, 6mm x 6mm x 50mm strips and drill each end 3mm for the LEDs to fit in. I wrapped Al foil around the top to stop light coming out the tops!
This how one “4’ fluorescent tube” looks .
Then I connected 4 of them in a line for the whole ceiling.
This is how 2 of them look, mounted on the ceiling. A pretty good effect I think.
I used ‘warm white’ LEDs in the vestibules to simulate old fashioned incandescents, running at just 6mA. The kitchen area with its frosted windows, has just has two white LEDs running at 12mA
So in all there are 14 LEDs taking a total of only 70 mA at 12V. (I don’t have the LiPo yet – I’ll use LiPo as they retain their charge for ages.)
The circuit I used looks like this:
I did the no-no of connecting LEDs directly in parallel, but it works! Each LED in the fluoro is taking 18mA.
While I was testing, I had an intermittent connection which caused flickering like a fluoro starting. Hmmm, I thinks - I need a picaxe to do a low voltage alarm for the LiPo, so maybe I’ll add a flickering start feature later. (must get back on that medication!)
Gregh they look superb. I was just wondering, I am Modeling East Germany in the bad old days of Communism. What I am trying to achieve is that dull old warn out decrepit lack of investment look so prevalent then. One of the big memories of my Trips to East Germany un the 1970/80's was how dark everything was. This was certainly manifested in Station Buildings which were typically lit with about 10% of the required lighting both in terms of numbers but also power.
As you have obviously done a lot of work here, any ideas of how I could 'diffuse' the light if I were to copy your concept for my Station Interiors. I wonder if Yellow Led's might be the way to go, what do you think.
JonD
As you have obviously done a lot of work here, any ideas of how I could 'diffuse' the light if I were to copy your concept for my Station Interiors. I wonder if Yellow Led's might be the way to go, what do you think.
JonD
gregh
electronics, computers and scratchbuilding
I'd suggest you buy some of these 'golden warm white' leds and run them at a low current - say 5mA. No need to diffuse them. With them so cheap, and taking litle current, you can use quite a few throughout your buildings/carriages to give the diffuse effect.dunnyrail said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100p-4-8mm-GOLDEN-WARM-WHITE-LED-14000mcd-FREE-RESISTOR-/350326235790?
They are a funny dia - 4.8mm. I make shades from thin cardboard 15mm dia circles, split and shaped as a 'cone'.
D
Deleted member 1986
Guest
Greg,
Very nice looking, both inside and out, very nice touches and attention to the smaller details.
Those strip lights really look the part, did wonder if a Picaxe would appear somewhere!
John S
Very nice looking, both inside and out, very nice touches and attention to the smaller details.
Those strip lights really look the part, did wonder if a Picaxe would appear somewhere!
John S