ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
I see this freebie 3d kit loco has been covered previously, but mine is a slightly different take. Having recently acquired a 3d printer for £80 (new) ostensibly to print out 14 seats for my railcar and then printing out luggage for its roof rack, I thought I'd have a go at something a bit more ambitious.
Having printed out one, I found the parts were slightly wonky because the X and y axes of my printer weren't perpendicular. I then printed out a second, using additional parts provided by another modeller. I then decided the first one wasn't too bad so made them both up. I decided to couple them back to back, as per some Australian sugar cane locos. One is powered (via a 3v motor and gears from IP Engineering) and the other is unpowered - though it won't take much effort to motorise it if I change my mind.
.
The unpowered loco is based mainly on the original drawings. I've only changed the top of the bonnet as I felt the silencer and exhaust arrangement was more attractive than the original. The headlamp is also a better design on the updated drawings. Incidentally, I used one of the microscopic surface mount LEDs as a bulb as even a 3mm LED wouldn't fit. Make sure you get them with wires attached BTW unless you have a microscope, a soldering iron with a tiny bit and a rock steady hand.
.
I decided to 'remove' the side doors from the engine compartment to have the engine visible - it seemed a shame to waste this part and hide it away. As this is the unpowered 'trailer', there's no motor under the bonnet.
.
The powered loco has plenty of room under the bonnet for the motor and a fair amount of lead. I do like my locos to have plenty of weight. The two AA sized batteries and Deltang receiver/controller are in the control panel in the cab. The driver is removable so he can be swapped over when the loco changes direction.
.
I'm really pleased with the way the radiator grille has turned out. A bit fiddly to print and tidy-up but I think it was worth the effort. I have wired in sockets so I could run the locos nose to nose if the fancy takes me. I'll have to add my LGB style hook and loop couplings before she/they can enter service properly. Just need to figure out how to do this without butchering too much what I've made so far.
.
Quite pleased with how they've turned out. Of course, there's a bit of "now I've done it I know how to do it better"! I don't think the wonky (unpowered) one looks noticeably wonky - though I know exactly where to look!!
I feel it was well worth the effort - and the beauty of 3D printing is I can always print off any bits that get broken!!
Rik
Having printed out one, I found the parts were slightly wonky because the X and y axes of my printer weren't perpendicular. I then printed out a second, using additional parts provided by another modeller. I then decided the first one wasn't too bad so made them both up. I decided to couple them back to back, as per some Australian sugar cane locos. One is powered (via a 3v motor and gears from IP Engineering) and the other is unpowered - though it won't take much effort to motorise it if I change my mind.
.
The unpowered loco is based mainly on the original drawings. I've only changed the top of the bonnet as I felt the silencer and exhaust arrangement was more attractive than the original. The headlamp is also a better design on the updated drawings. Incidentally, I used one of the microscopic surface mount LEDs as a bulb as even a 3mm LED wouldn't fit. Make sure you get them with wires attached BTW unless you have a microscope, a soldering iron with a tiny bit and a rock steady hand.
.
I decided to 'remove' the side doors from the engine compartment to have the engine visible - it seemed a shame to waste this part and hide it away. As this is the unpowered 'trailer', there's no motor under the bonnet.
.
The powered loco has plenty of room under the bonnet for the motor and a fair amount of lead. I do like my locos to have plenty of weight. The two AA sized batteries and Deltang receiver/controller are in the control panel in the cab. The driver is removable so he can be swapped over when the loco changes direction.
.
I'm really pleased with the way the radiator grille has turned out. A bit fiddly to print and tidy-up but I think it was worth the effort. I have wired in sockets so I could run the locos nose to nose if the fancy takes me. I'll have to add my LGB style hook and loop couplings before she/they can enter service properly. Just need to figure out how to do this without butchering too much what I've made so far.
.
Quite pleased with how they've turned out. Of course, there's a bit of "now I've done it I know how to do it better"! I don't think the wonky (unpowered) one looks noticeably wonky - though I know exactly where to look!!
I feel it was well worth the effort - and the beauty of 3D printing is I can always print off any bits that get broken!!
Rik
