3 Channel elcheapo radio control

tramcar trev

tramcar trev

all manner of mechanical apparatus...
My 3 channel dimmer was waiting for me when I got home today. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350687616075?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Attached are the most lucid set of instructions....
There are 2 leds, red labled power, green labled "incept" viz;
in·cept (
ibreve.gif
n-s
ebreve.gif
pt
prime.gif
)
tr.v. in·cept·ed, in·cept·ing, in·cepts To take in; ingest.

[Latin incipere, incept-, to begin, take up; see inception.]
in·cep
prime.gif
tor n.

So one can immediately deduce that would mean you start by waiting to see the green led flash....

Seriously I have not put power into this thing yet and when I get a chance I'll power it up and see what happens. Its in an aluminium box which I thought would act as a Faraday Shield on the Rx antenna... If I can change modes eg go from mode 1 which is speed to mode 2 which would be lights on/off and mode 3 which is forward/reverse (via a small DPDT relay) by pressing the mode button the corresponding number of times this could be a winner. If, on the other hand, one has to press it 21 times to get back to mode 1 (speed) it may be simpler to use it for some other purpose or just use it as a single channel controller. I do like the telescopic antenna on the control box....
Neil R also was going to play with his when he gets it, no doubt he will immediately make sense of the"User manual"....

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tramcar trev said:
Attached are the most lucid set of instructions....
Click to expand...

I'm sure you will find a use for 'three-color jumpy changing'. Let us know how you get on. Sounds like a useful cheapo way into full featured (almost) r/c.

Rik
 
OK, I took out my one channel dimmer, the same one you have pictured in another post, and was experimenting with it late last night. First I attached an LED with resistor to it and powered the dimmer with 15 volts DC. Instructions indicate 12-24 VDC for power. I pressed the DOWN arrow button on the dimmer, nothing. I pressed the UP arrow, nothing. I pressed the ON/OFF button, still nothing happened to the LED. It was just as bright as it started out as.

Next, I hooked up a small DC Geared Motor to the output terminals. Pressing the Down arrow button repeatedly caused the motor to eventually slow down and stop. However, it would not stay stopped. After a few moments, the motor pulsed, a few revolutions at a time. I could not get the motor running again unless I cut power to the dimmer. The next time I tried the same button pressing, nothing happened.

It could be that I have a bad unit. I opened it up to see if it had a linking button, as some of these small devices do, but found none. So I put the thing back in my parts drawer until I have the time to mess with it more or throw it in the trash.
 
I managed to blow up one of the single channel unit by hooking it up to a power supply that had too much ripple on it.
these things like very smooth (less than 1% ripple) supplies.
I use an old laptop supply (19V)
 
Madman said:
OK, I took out my one channel dimmer, the same one you have pictured in another post, and was experimenting with it late last night. First I attached an LED with resistor to it and powered the dimmer with 15 volts DC. Instructions indicate 12-24 VDC for power. I pressed the DOWN arrow button on the dimmer, nothing. I pressed the UP arrow, nothing. I pressed the ON/OFF button, still nothing happened to the LED. It was just as bright as it started out as.

Next, I hooked up a small DC Geared Motor to the output terminals. Pressing the Down arrow button repeatedly caused the motor to eventually slow down and stop. However, it would not stay stopped. After a few moments, the motor pulsed, a few revolutions at a time. I could not get the motor running again unless I cut power to the dimmer. The next time I tried the same button pressing, nothing happened.

It could be that I have a bad unit. I opened it up to see if it had a linking button, as some of these small devices do, but found none. So I put the thing back in my parts drawer until I have the time to mess with it more or throw it in the trash.
Click to expand...
Three things I would humbly suggest
1) yes you have a dud, not an unknown phenomena when buying cheap Chinese junk.... you could always complain to the vendor especially if you have not left feedback with the implication that unless a WORKING replacement is despatched with all possible despatch there will be no positive feedback....
2) change the battery in the transmitter ( the battery can cost more than the entire thing)and if the battery drops to around 11.5 V it is "technically" dead...
3 when holding the transmitter try and hold it vertically, I get very erratic results holding it horizontally....
 
simon@mgr said:
I managed to blow up one of the single channel unit by hooking it up to a power supply that had too much ripple on it.
these things like very smooth (less than 1% ripple) supplies.
I use an old laptop supply (19V)
Click to expand...
I use a switchmode power supply, I shall check the specs to see what ripple there is....
 
ge_rik said:
tramcar trev said:
Attached are the most lucid set of instructions....
Click to expand...

I'm sure you will find a use for 'three-color jumpy changing'. Let us know how you get on. Sounds like a useful cheapo way into full featured (almost) r/c.

Rik
Click to expand...
Yeah, when I stopped laughing and thought about it what about a tram covered in RGB leds for "festive occasions" eg the Blackpool ones??/ now that could use all 21 "features"....
 
Ok, Ok, it's a fizzer.... Would make a better single channel control though than the key fob type but I could not control the 3 channels independently... I had it set up with 3 x 12V globes, 1 on each channel..... I could get some amazing effects with chasing lights etc but I could not get independent control of any 1 channel except in position 1 where light 1 could be brightened or dimmed from around 25 metres away, likewise I could do the same with the other channels. But I could not get globe one to be controlled while globe 2 was being controlled....
The "Incept" led tells you when its receiving a signal from the transmitter....
Soooooooo I will use it as a single channel controller and disable the other "modes" and I'll swap the S+ & - buttons over....
the other glitch that comes to mind the Key fobs are uniquely paired, I'm not sure about these, there is no "pairing button" in either the transmitter or the receiver and no id number either.....I await Neil Robinson's expert opinion, when he gets his....
 
Switchmode supplies have virtually no ripple.
They also seem to be getting cheaper (a definite plus)
 
Ok, so the "dude" who sent me the 3 channel asked for "5 star review please for exceptional service and goods quality" I sent him back this;
" Hello Po, yes I have received the item and unfortunately it does not do what I want it to do. This is not your fault as I bought it hoping I could use as a radio control device, not as a LED dimmer. I will score you for your service soon.
Cheers
Trevor"
Po's reply " my friend, sorry you are inconvenienced. We will send you replacement or refund you choose"
My response " Hi Po, no its ok no refund or replacement thanks, I am happy"
This morning, " Ok my friend we have sent a replacement today, please leave 5 stars your friend Po Hing"
They must cost him a lot, poor bugga just wants his 5 stars.
 
I've posted you 5 stars Trev - hope you pass them on!:rolf::rolf::rolf::rolf:
 
The ironic point here is that it would cost me more in post to send it back so I will do a Paypal refund.... If they are a suitable single channel speed control that only needs a diode across the output (With praise to GregH) then it will find a good use... In fact I may buy more off him.....
 
Assuming it's the same chap as the link in the original post, he's already got over 180 000 feedback ratings - if he chases every one to the same extent as he has done with you his stars must be costing him a fortune. Maybe Po will get the sack if he doesn't earn x number of stars a week.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
Assuming it's the same chap as the link in the original post, he's already got over 180 000 feedback ratings - if he chases every one to the same extent as he has done with you his stars must be costing him a fortune. Maybe Po will get the sack if he doesn't earn x number of stars a week.

Rik
Click to expand...
Maybe.... I suspect its a cultural thing, Asians always have to be seen to save face. Also he may be smart and realize the competition that is out there...
 
tramcar trev said:
Maybe.... I suspect its a cultural thing, Asians always have to be seen to save face. Also he may be smart and realize the competition that is out there...
Click to expand...
Must be really frustrating - if you look at some of the negative feedback, quite a few are from people who simply say it's not yet arrived while still inside the delivery time. There's also negative feedback from someone who paid $0.99 for something and felt it wasn't very good quality ..............Hmmmm :impatient:

Rik
 
ROSS said:
I notice the User Manual specifies the voltages DC5, 12v 24v._
followed by
<for orders, specify voltage>
I see the advert specifies 12-24v capability.
Wonder who is correct.
The advertiser or the manufacturers manual? as they seem to conflict.

Just a thought.:thinking:
Click to expand...
I suspect this is down to the series resistor in the supply to the 5V regulator.
As I mentioned in a previous post ( number 67 in this topic http://www.gscalecentral.net/Info-req39d-on-keyfob-RC-m269451-p4 < Link To http://www.forum.gscalece...fob-RC-m269451-p4 ) my 24V version had a 470 ohm resistor. My more recent purchase of a three channel 12V version has a 150 ohm resistor in its place. I've yet to test this but I assume all is well. IMHO a 5V version would need a bit of a redesign probably omitting the 5V voltage control chip and its limiting resistor completely as you'd need at least 7V to overcome the voltage drop inside the chip.
 
Neil Robinson said:
ROSS said:
I notice the User Manual specifies the voltages DC5, 12v 24v._
followed by
<for orders, specify voltage>
I see the advert specifies 12-24v capability.
Wonder who is correct.
The advertiser or the manufacturers manual? as they seem to conflict.

Just a thought.:thinking:
Click to expand...
I suspect this is down to the series resistor in the supply to the 5V regulator.
As I mentioned in a previous post ( number 67 in this topic http://www.gscalecentral.net/Info-req39d-on-keyfob-RC-m269451-p4 < Link To http://www.forum.gscalece...fob-RC-m269451-p4 ) my 24V version had a 470 ohm resistor. My more recent purchase of a three channel 12V version has a 150 ohm resistor in its place. I've yet to test this but I assume all is well. IMHO a 5V version would need a bit of a redesign probably omitting the 5V voltage control chip and its limiting resistor completely as you'd need at least 7V to overcome the voltage drop inside the chip.
Click to expand...
I was unaware of the need to specify the input voltage when I bought mine....
 
Ross, I have seen the light and I don't have the dexterity of a concert pianist so for me it will be one Tx, one Rx per tram. Its just the type that is now being debated. The key fob and the one under discussion here are limited in their facilities, i.e You only have speed control. A conventional proportional Tx has the benefit of having channels available for turning accessories on/off. ATM I admit to be leaning toward a conventional set with ESC and RC switches etc... with the 1 on 1 ratio.... Trams are different to trains in as much as they can be bumper to bumper and look good in that scenario where as 1 meandering along a track does not look so "real".
So that leaves me with a decision, do I go for a key fob in each hand? Or a 4 channel Tx with a tram on each channel? or a 4/6channel for each tram? Then I also have my auto signalling system to help keep things under control....
 
Well, a mate of mine who's in to 00 gauge trams convinced me years ago that the way to go was to have one or two trams on automatic control, and then drive the third one in and between. I managed to accomplish this when DCC came on the scene, but don't kid yourself - this requires nerves of steel and absolute concentration. The difficulty with conventional DCC was being able to switch between vehicles fast enough to avert disaster.
As far as battery R/C is concerned, one option may be to strip out the four potentiometers from the Tx and re-mount them on the same axis, so that you end up with a row of four levers or thumbwheels (or 8 if you're Ross) one for each tram. This is an entirely foolhardy suggestion as I have yet to mutilate a Tx to see if it works, and I'm not convinced that I'd remember which lever worked which tram in the heat of battle.
Having said all of that, independent control of two or more trams is the only way to get the streetcar atmosphere.
 
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